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Discussion Starter #61
Few more updates...... had to remove dumptube for now. Ir was not agreeing with the routing of pipes. Ill have to take it back and re route it.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Wasn't happy with a hanging IC, so I had to mount to bumper. Found an old rubber bushing, cut it in 1/2 and used them to mount between bumper and IC. 10 points to who ever can identify that bushing...( hint, it is an oem eg bushing.....somewhere )
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Wasn't happy with a hanging IC, so I had to mount to bumper. Found an old rubber bushing, cut it in 1/2 and used them to mount between bumper and IC. 10 points to who ever can identify that bushing...( hint, it is an oem eg bushing.....somewhere )
Upper rad support bushing, or rad feet bushings... hey wait a minute you can't give out points on this site!

Nice progress so far, looking good!
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Upper rad support bushing, or rad feet bushings... hey wait a minute you can't give out points on this site!

Nice progress so far, looking good!
[/QUOTE
Upper rad support bushing, or rad feet bushings... hey wait a minute you can't give out points on this site!

Nice progress so far, looking good!
Ha, its the bushing that holds the stock intake plasic pipe just before it dips down through the front under the wheel well.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Question, I used the brake booster line to tap for the boost gauge ( it already had a t from an aftermarket cruise control that it had once upon a time by previous owner, CX with cruise cntrl?? ). Where should I tap for the BOV? Many are saying the FPR?
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Question, I used the brake booster line to tap for the boost gauge ( it already had a t from an aftermarket cruise control that it had once upon a time by previous owner, CX with cruise cntrl?? ). Where should I tap for the BOV? Many are saying the FPR?
20191012_131533.jpg
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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don't tee off the fpr
use the bigger one for wg if need cuz you won't be connectioning pcv.
and tee off the little one at the back for bov gauge if need.
 

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MuthaFuckaUppa
2009 Civic Si Sedan
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Get a catch can, get rid of that filter on your valve cover and put some real ventilation in it. Get rid of the black box on the back of the block and drain the catch can back in there. Talk to Greg at go-autoworks. With that removed, use the PCV bung for vacuum needs.
If you have emissions testing good luck. After my turbo motor failed, they pop the hood and give it a sniff test, the catch can will fail big time.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
New problem. When I was changing the hoses for heater, it was giving me a hard time. I got them done. Now I noticed antifreeze leaking from under the body of the car!! Pulled up the carpet and found a puddle of antifreeze. Looks like its leaking from the tubes that go through firewall and dripping down into car. The hose was leaking so I zipped tied it and that seemed to work, but still leaking inside car. Did I mess up the line? Do I have to pull the whole heater core to see damage or just remove the heater hoses and look for crack? Whats the repair? Replace od it can be fixed? Looks like the one on the left.
135267
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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you might have damaged the heater core. you can either loop those lines and have no heat, or pull the dash and inspect
 

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max out the temp knob, then put the radiator under pressure with a tester. See if its actually leaking, or if you simply made a mess when you changed the hoses.


if this is one of the cheap silicone kits, they tend to be overly stiff, and can be a hassle to tighten, especially when trying to be careful on an old car.

When the radiator is under pressure, move hoses around the heater, and see if its still leaking. Tighten as long as it feels liek you wont crush the heater barbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Ok, tried both. Scootched the clamp a little forward and zip tied the ends of the hoses just to see.... low and behold, no leaks. Thanks guys!!! Looks like all is running well. Next step is to get it registered and insured so I can:
1. Get it to a shop to have the exhaust and downpipe matched up to connect.
2. Get it to Xenocron..... so they can get my ecu chipped and tuned after installing the 1000cc injectors.
3. Get my dump tube re angled to fit around the IC piping.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Opinions. Should I get the reducer for the Cat or should I eliminate and add a straight pipe? I want to keep it sleeper so not loud. My exhaust is an Apex-i WS II so its fairly quiet right now. Thoughts??
 
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