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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
D16z6/y8 Turbo Build

So, I'm currently researching for my first turbo build. I'm fairly new into the Honda scene, though I'm loving it so far.
Please forgive me for the ignorance I'm undoubtedly going to exhibit, I've attempted to research as much as I can, but asking you all here seems like the best way to avoid headaches down the road if I've understood anything wrong or have unrealistic expectations.

Details and background: I currently have a 99 Civic HX with the stock D16y5 in it at about 175k miles. After the fascination with the B series wore off and sticker shock set in, I've decided to go with a D series motor, specifically the D16z6.
My Whp goal is 200 though possibly with room to up it to 250 if I decide to further down the road. My second goal is to keep the motor as close to stock as I can. Granted I do realize some upgrades will be unavoidably necessary, but I'm curious how close I can stay to stock internals on a setup pushing about 180-200 Whp without sacrificing reliability.

My first question is, is this recommended or realistic? Or am I completely off base with these estimates?

Secondly, what are the recommended builds for hitting 180-200 without going all out on engine upgrades?
 

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for inspection purposes it will fail throwing in an obd1 motor into an obd2 car. Unless you got connections. but i think it'll be more of a hassle cause you'll need the obd2 wire harness for inspection while making that harness work with the z6.
your HP goals are safe on a stock d-series. Just do the stuff that should be done like MLS head gasket, and Head studs on a stock motor going turbo. the turbo kit will be easy to piece together. its the ecu, tune, thats gonna run your budget up(if you want it reliable and right) Just keep searching google for your info. You seem like your on the right track
 

· Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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Why not just keep the d16y5, I have my y5 boosted making 166hp 149tq right now and going in for a new tune in about a month (looking for 200hp). Your goals are within the stock block limits of between 200-220 whp, look at my buil or The Assassin build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Alston, thank you very much. Passing inspection shouldn't be as much of an issue, but that's something I wasn't aware of. That's more to look into for me, then. And good to know about my hp goals, I have an entirely separate budget being set up specifically for the tune and ECU after reading around.

Blu, I had thought of that, but I'm slightly hesitant on pushing that motor too much, as I'm not completely certain if it has rust issues or not. The rest of the car myself and a few different techs that I work with have been able to look over the car, and other than the brake lines (which I'm in the process of replacing now) the rest of the car seems fine. The car runs perfectly fine as it is, but for a 115-120 hp engine. I'm not sure if its slightly less than pristine condition would hold up to boosting.

I'll definitely check out those builds you recommended, though.
Also, I figured swapping in a motor that came stock with vtec would make it easier to hit my goal without the need for excessive boosting, more stock hp less need for boost seemed like it'd be more reliable, though please correct me if I'm wrong.

I'll be looking this up on my own, but I may as well throw this out here anyway, what OBD2 motor would you all recommend for boosting in that range?

Edit: Upon some more searching, this may be somewhat pertinent, there's no required emissions inspection where I'm currently living
 

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1993 Honda Civic DX
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Mine is a y8, most people will complain about the oiling issues with them. I personally haven't seen it yet(knock on wood). But there are things to do to try and stay away from that. Also it's a vtec motor and obd2. Like the person above said, y7 would be a good option as well. Same block as the other y series, just no vtec

200-250 isn't all that hard to reach as long as you do it smart. Piece together a kit rather than buying one. Decent manifold, cheap t3/t4 turbo, good waste gate and bov, set of dsm 450cc injectors and 8-10 psi should get you where you wanna be with a proper tune
 

· Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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Idk if you know but the d16y5 is vtec and once tuned it makes a huge difference, my vtec you can hear and feel just like a b16.

If your going for a swap I would do a d16y8 or d16z6 for the vtec
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was actually considering the Y8 after doing some more guided research, though that problem spinning bearings/ oiling did have me a bit nervous, though I'm seeing a lot of people saying they haven't had that problem.
Would a z6 block with a y8 head be a decent way to avoid both the oiling issues of the y8 and the obd-1 nature of the z6?

Also, I did notice the y7, but unless there's anything in specific about it that makes it more qualified than the rest of the y series, it doesn't seem all that impressive. I'm not trying to be snob-ish towards the y7, I'm just a bit concerned with the "If it doesn't go fast stock, it'll be a pain in the ass to make it fast" rule.

I did know the y5 was a vtec, but the vtec-e never really seems to kick, I was under the impression that it simply shut off valves under 2,800 rpm for the swirling effect it had on the fuel. And also, swapping the motor out helps ensure the quality of the motor a little bit and get me a bit of a longer life. I'm trying to speed it up, but I want this civic to stay around a little while, and I don't have the most faith in the motor that's in it now.

Also, Blu, you do have me intrigued, is there any chance you could send some video my way?

And thanks to all who have posted so far, I'm definitely still in an early learning stage and I appreciate all the help.
 

· Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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vtec is vtec to me whether it is to keep valves closed under a specific rpm or to open valves at a certain time above a certain rpm.when the car is tuned it is much different then factory, you cannot feel or hear any d series vtec or at least the ones i have been in.

basically my tuner just moved vtec up to 4,800 rpm instead of 3200 or what ever it was and made a big difference in the tune between the low and high cam lobes so its like a b16 now, hard to hear on the outside of my car but you can feel it and hear it for sure.

here is my youtube i have a few videos in there https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj8fgnvP_ZthnYPBo2ARk7Q?feature=plcp

this video around 00:42 seconds you can see when vtec kicks at 4,800 but its kind of hard to tell, that was all full throttle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpM-xU7lGbM
 

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ej8
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the hx vtec should be a lean burn so you only run 1 intake valve pre cylinder.
When it hits it just switches to a normal motor as a y7.

Vtec-e dual stage does this but then when it hits around 4.8k it kick into normal z6 type vtec.

Either way add a turbo and it doesn't matter.
When you lookup motor specs its not vtec that ups the hp it's the head shape and compression.


Ad to the op what ecu will the car be using? And what body? Is best to cut down on wiring if I your not good at it. A y8 head and z6 block on an obd2 is a lil harder then a full bd2 motor in an obd2 car.
 

· Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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3,265 Posts
the hx vtec should be a lean burn so you only run 1 intake valve pre cylinder.
When it hits it just switches to a normal motor as a y7.

Vtec-e dual stage does this but then when it hits around 4.8k it kick into normal z6 type vtec.

Either way add a turbo and it doesn't matter.
When you lookup motor specs its not vtec that ups the hp it's the head shape and compression.


Ad to the op what ecu will the car be using? And what body? Is best to cut down on wiring if I your not good at it. A y8 head and z6 block on an obd2 is a lil harder then a full bd2 motor in an obd2 car.
hx is vtec e and yes it does lean burn before vtec but im sure as soon as its in vtec it adjusts when the intake valves open just like any other vtec motor to help it breath
 
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