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Discussion Starter #1
Me and my friend stripped a d16z6 apart down to just the rotating assembally... We replaced both the front main seal and the rear seal.
We followed the haynes manual exactly...
We got the motor in an running, (which runs, started first try, no codes..(so far)..in an EK running OBD1)
Started it, and its got a nice constant stream from behind the crank pully... The crank pully isnt tourqed down all the way as we havent put the timing belt cover on yet. But this shouldnt affect the new seal around the crank should it?

Also...we did end up using an 88HF oilpan on the d16z6...but as far as I can tell, that all sealed great, and theres a little puddle of oil on the lip above the oil pan....

Thoughts, ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, but it was the same length....and its definitly getting oil....
You can swap z6 and a6 oil pans, so why not the 88HF?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Like, around the seal? That goes around the crank..?
Im not totally sure we did, haynes said to lube it a little and tap it in evenly and not to far, after removing the old one and cleaning up the seal area.
 

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looking at my y8 oil pump i am not sure you can tap the seal in too far, but your pump may be different. and yeah put a lil sealant around the seal as a lube, not where the crank goes but around the outside and when it dries it will seal up any small leaks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ah ok, will try that when the new seal gets here...is hondabond a must? or is there something else we can use?
 

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any sealant should work, instead of hondabond you can use permatex, not sure about whether you should use the black or the grey tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Chill out son, just making sure you were aware that not all of them are the same.
heh didnt see this, I wasnt being an ass, if I sounded like one I apologize, I was just pointing out the thing about swapping a6 and z6 oil pans. I know the y7 and y8s are different from the older oil pans. But again thanks.

My name is just that, a name.... :beer:
 

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question?
u didnt put any scratches on the crank when removing the old 1 did u.
because if u did it will never seal.

i hope for your sake u didnt.

if not do like stated above. put sealant on the outside of the seal before installation.

good luck man. hope it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
nah we removed it with my fingernails!!!..lol....I have already ordered a new one it will be here tommorrow..I'll keep you guys posted
 

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Don't use a sealant on the crank seal. Just lube the outside of the seal with alittle oil and make sure it is flush and the spring behind the lip doesnt come out. You will see the edge has a 45 degree angle on the oil pump. Just make sure the seal is flush with the base of that, crank seals are usualy easy cause the usualy have a maetal backing and wont go in farther then that. Also, if using an aftermarket seal make sure its going the right direct. Seals ARE directional. You'll see the veins on the seal are angled in a certain direction. Also there will be a tiny arrow on the front of the seal indicating its direction, make sure its going in the direction the crank spins. I have seen crappy aftermarket seals go in the wrong direction. This will cause the seal to push out oil and not keep it in. Just a FYI
 

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the sealant around the outside was just to go into any scratches or "defects" where the seal is going, good to know about the inside of the seals
 

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the sealant around the outside was just to go into any scratches or "defects" where the seal is going, good to know about the inside of the seals

IF that were the case a sealant could be a bandaid. But I've never seen one leak from there. Its always at the crank or cam or balancshaft inside part. usualy from install error. Even though everything looks great it may not be right. I've seen many a seasoned tech get a leak after a seal install including myself on more then one occurance. You just do it again, being more careful and move on. Happens to the best of us. The best thing is to use a seal installer if you have one. Drives the seals in perfect everytime. Alot of time when you push it in one side at a time the spring will come off the bakc or the lip will fold.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
nah we removed it with my fingernails!!!..lol....I have already ordered a new one it will be here tommorrow..I'll keep you guys posted
Somebody is being a jackass on my computer while Im away.....Grrrr...
:p BTW Im getting that hatch...(yeah that one)

Anyway, the new seal will be there in the morning, and we may look into a seal installer,or at least a piece of pipe thats the diamiter.
When we took the old one out we hooked little dentist like picks in to the seal and pulled it out, of course this destoryed the spring in it, but it was the old seal.
I was afraid of pushing the new one in to far , but it didnt stick out either...

We will give it another try and see how it goes and report back, this was our only issue so far.
Thanks again guys...
 
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