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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I have just finished building my NA d16z6.

Of course after connecting all the things (I am missing vtec cable for some reason), I get the ecu light to come on. However, after shortcircuting the usual blue connector I do not get flashing check engine light to read the code.

Do any one of you know what could the potencial problem be? I will recheck all the wiring tomorrow, but I am unsure about what is going on.

The engine also runs a little rough, but it still needs a proper tune.
 

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what year civic is this?

if 92-95, it will blink the CEL if you short the connector, then turn key just to light up the gauges (2 clicks)

It wont work if you only turn the key once over
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The car is a 1992 civic wagon that has a swapped d16z6 engine in it.

Yes I have turned the key for the lights to come on. It just stays and does not blink at all.

And yes, I have stuck the pin in the connector to short circuit, and for the codes to come. They do not.

Any place I could look for a potencial problem?
 

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The car is a 1992 civic wagon that has a swapped d16z6 engine in it.

Yes I have turned the key for the lights to come on. It just stays and does not blink at all.

And yes, I have stuck the pin in the connector to short circuit, and for the codes to come. They do not.

Any place I could look for a potencial problem?

When you start the car, does the check engine light go away, or does it remain on? Are you running an OEM ECU? Or something like Hondata?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The light stays on and does not go away. It is on with ignition on and after the car is started.

The ECU is P28 as stated in the name of the thread. It was chipped before.

Today I looked at some sensor connectors, I switched wires for manifold pressure sensor and throttle possition sensor - the car did not like it so I switched it back.

However, when I switched intake air temperature sensor with idle air control valve. After switching these wires it seems the car works a bit better.

I also tested that signal comes to my lamda and to oil pressure sensors.
 

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I would look at the wiring colors to verify your sensors are all indeed plugged in correctly. There are a few pairs of sensors like you experienced, same plug, different operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would look at the wiring colors to verify your sensors are all indeed plugged in correctly. There are a few pairs of sensors like you experienced, same plug, different operation.
I will do that tomorrow, however, that does not solve the problem of ECU not showing me the codes when short circuted. Could it be that it's missing a grounding wire or something of that nature?
 

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The ECU is P28 as stated in the name of the thread. It was chipped before.
Yeah i did see that, however you can have a p28 chipped with Hondata for example. The reason i ask is the chip can alter how and when the check engine light is displayed, a bad chip, bad map etc can cause a solid cel. Do you have a different ECU you can try?

A bad main fuel relay can cause a solid CEL.

I'd sort out your sensor wiring first, then if you're still experiencing the same issue report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Getting back at anyone looking at this - the problem was quite simple. Wires were not connected to the ecu properly. After connecting them I got problem 1 and 13. After resetting it only 1 long flash stayed , meaning I will change the o2 sensor and drive happily ever after.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, i changed the lambda, checked most of the wiring, reset the ecu, but the darn 1 cel code won't go away. Do you guys have any ideas what could have caused it?
 
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