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Hello everyone.

I'm currently going for a N/A build for a fun DD to get me where I'm going and to have a little extra pep on the interstate. Here is my part list so far:

CompCams 59300 Camshaft
Supertech Valve Spring Set
Supertech Steel Retainers
Supertech Forged Piston Kit (10.5 comp)
ARP Rod Bolts (decided to stick with OE rods due to them being in good shape and since I don't plan on pushing a ton of horses anyway.)
Skunk2 Pro Series IM
Skunk2 Alpha 66mm TB
OE Valves

I know to be able to really get the most out of these parts I need to get a Hondata and a tune which I planned on doing anyway, but once I get all the engine work done I should be able to drive it fine until then, right?

I also am set up with an engine machining shop that will do all the work (bore, hone, deck, head) and also install all the valvetrain parts if I buy and bring them to the shop.

As far as exhaust goes, I was looking at getting a Yonaka catback and replacing my catalytic converter replaced with a Magnaflow one (#22636, still need to be able to pass federal emissions.) but I'm not sure what to do for a good header and whether I should get a 4-2-1 or a 4-1. Any help or opinions on what I have listed is welcome. 1994 Civic EX EJ1.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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save your money with the intake and throttle body. y8 if you cant help yourself.

see adding more air flow and more compression but nothing for fueling.


does the cam require springs? if the answer is no, then why bother?


just my .02
 

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I wouldn't personally waste forged pistons, on a n/a engine. I'd go with some oem cast ones that give more like 11.5-12:1
IM is ok, but I'd go 60 or 62mm on the TB, as you may loose more than gain, with the 66mm. Plus low rpm (dd rpms) throttle repsonse will be too sensitive, just enough to make it unpleasent to drive.
Arp rod bolts are not really needed, but if you choose to go that way, make sure you re-hone the big end of the rods, as the extra torque will throw the bore out of round.
As for the header, go for the 4-2-1, it will give you nice gains at all rpm. Make sure you are not getting the one with the 43-45mm 2-1 end piece, but the bigger one that is more like 53+mm
 

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Valve spring and retainers aren’t really needed unless you’re planning on upping your rev limiter. If you plan on keeping it set to the stock limiter, stock springs and retainers should do just fine. I have stock ones on mine with a comp cams quicktyme 105100 stage 1 and they do just fine.



Also I’d invest in a set of acl race bearings for your crank and rods. They’ll hold up better under constant higher revving than the stock ones will. I learned my lesson the hard way when I spun one and had to do a full rebuild. Although a z6 has less problems with that than the y8’s do.

I’ve got the skunk2 pro IM and 66mm TB as well as a 4-2-1 header on my y8, and you can really tell the difference in how peppy the engine is compared to having the stock ones.

My biggest suggestion though is if you plan on doing all those upgrades, make sure to also have an s300 ready to go and be tuned ASAP. I still haven’t and I’m running into issues where I think I’m running too rich and it’s causing it to foul plugs pretty quickly.

save your money with the intake and throttle body. y8 if you cant help yourself.

see adding more air flow and more compression but nothing for fueling.


does the cam require springs? if the answer is no, then why bother?


just my .02
Agreed on the springs retainers, only do them if the cam absolutely requires them. If not it’s a waste of money unless you plan on upping your revs like I stated earlier.
 
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