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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finished swapping the d16y1 in my 95 civic cx last night. Here's the issues I'm having and questions about them.

1. I'm running a holley airmass header. That only has a spot for an o2 sensor is by the collector. The o2 sensor I have is a bosch 4 wire. I posted a picture of the back and front. The wire colors are: white/white
Black/grey

Which of the white wires do I depin and connect to the engine harness single white wire?

*Edit*
Found a write up of all the sensor wire colors. I'm going to try extending the o2 sensor and hooking it up this weekend.

2. I have a CEL because of no o2 sensor and the engine is running rough. Is that because I'm getting no o2 sensor readings because it's disconnected?

3. The temp gauge was reading low before I swapped the engine on the original d15b8. Now it's reading very low and when the cooling fans come on the needle drops to the line that says C. I can do a resistance test on the sensor because I have a feeling it's bad?

Im running a go autoworks radiator and slim fan mounted with the OEM shroud. Also replaced the thermostat, water pump and coolant with OEM parts.

Coolant temps taken with a laser temp gun while bleeding the system read 220°F after idling a while in the garage. Valve cover was around 160°F and intake manifold plenum was around 120°F.

When I opened the the thermostat housing originally it was pretty nasty inside. I cleaned it out best I could but could I possibly have a blockage? Any radiator flush brand anybody recommends?

4. I took the vtec sensors and wires from the chopped vtec harness and was just going to run them to the ecu. One sensor has black and blue wires, I have the black grounded to the thermostat ground and the other not connecting to anything. The other sensor is 1 wire also not connected to anything. What pins do I need to crimp to the wires to be able to pin them at the ecu?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump

any help is appreciated. I'm working 70hrs a week so the little time I have to work on the car I'd like to not waste.
 

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Bosch 02 sensors are shit, you might have luck but I never have. Denso is an OEM provider of 02 sensors for Honda so they work good and usually have the proper connector, you should be able to find an extender online for it if you rather not hack the wires.

There is a sensor for the ECU and one just for the gauge.

For the guage


For the ECT
([email protected])
Honda ECT thermistor resistance range;
20kΩ @ -20°C (-4°F)
0.1kΩ @ 120°C (248°F)

So at 0.2kΩ that would put you in around the 100°C - 110°C (212°F) range. For the sake of 20°F you should be good to go..
You can also take the single wire from the gauge sender and ground it out and see if the needle goes to the red and that will let you know if the gauge is working (don't peg the gauge way out, just test until goes to red).

I am glad you used the OEM t-stat and water pump, I would only use them as well.

Vtec wiring guide here

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/92-00-honda-engine-swap-wiring-guide-vtec-non-vtec-2987229/
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Awesome, I would of bought an oem o2 sensor but hondapartsnow.com has it for 200$

I should still have the receipt so maybe I can return it.

I owe you some beer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Denso is probably cheaper than from the honda dealer and likely the same thing, check the denso part # on amazon too.

What ECU are you using?
I got a ngk ntk sensor. Hope that was a good move.

Just using a stock p28.

Tried pulling the codes by jumping the blue connector and nothing happened. The cel just stayed lit. Maybe the paper clip I used was too big.
 

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if it stayed lit, pretty sure that means a dead ecu....
 

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Yeah pretty much dead ECU

HAmotorsports
A solid check engine light (with service check connector jumpered) is for an internal rom reading error within the ECU. If you receive a solid check engine light on a stock/ unchipped factory ECU, then the internal processor is most likely bad and the entire ECU should be replaced
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah pretty much dead ECU

HAmotorsports
A solid check engine light (with service check connector jumpered) is for an internal rom reading error within the ECU. If you receive a solid check engine light on a stock/ unchipped factory ECU, then the internal processor is most likely bad and the entire ECU should be replaced
I'll call them up because I bought an oem remanufactured ecu from HAmotorsports...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So I emailed HAmotorsports, but just tried jumping the connector again and got codes 21, 22, 41
No code 6 for ect sensor but I'm going to check with a multimeter asap.

So my ecu is good.

Pulled the thermostat and it seems fine. Wasn't stuck open and opened around 185-190°f.

Both heater core hoses were hot enough to feel through my glove.

Bled the coolant again but noticed the bleed valve on the front of the engine didn't push any coolant out at all.

Didn't have a multimeter to test the ECT but I'm starting to think that it is the problem.
 

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Sounds like you need to bleed the system good. Coolant should come out of the bleeder unless it's clogged.

I use this, I use it for anything that needs a system bled. Works great, keep it on there until the thermostat opens for a while with the heat all the way on.


All of the codes are for problems you have listed earlier. Take care of those first, get the Vtec wired up properly and make sure the o2 sensor is for that ECU and wired properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like you need to bleed the system good. Coolant should come out of the bleeder unless it's clogged.

I use this, I use it for anything that needs a system bled. Works great, keep it on there until the thermostat opens for a while with the heat all the way on.


All of the codes are for problems you have listed earlier. Take care of those first, get the Vtec wired up properly and make sure the o2 sensor is for that ECU and wired properly.
Right, my vtec and o2 harness should be here Wednesday.

I bled the system with a funnel, but maybe I have some kind of blockage.

I'll post an update Wednesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
What about the hose around the T-stat does it get hot after it opens. The heater hoses should be getting warm before then though, the heat will go through the car before the t-stat opens.
Took temperatures with a laser temp gun and the t-state is working right.

When the car warms up the t-Stat hits about 190°F and then the hose gets hot.

Heater vents are around 140°F on full heat blasting, before they would barely blow warm.

I think I have the cooling system bled now.

Got coolant to come out the bleeder valve also, it had a slight clog
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, so I got home from work this morning and popped my hood.

Could tell coolant was sprayed in my engine bay and the reservoir was low. Radiator cap is clean. Coolant left in reservoir is clean, no smoke from exhaust. The reservoir cap when tightened will get snug and then pop loose like the threads are messed up.

I started the car, filled up the reservoir and took some temperature readings.

First picture is the outlet by the bleed valve. 189.6°F

Next is the Engine side of thermostat housing. 185.5°F

Next hose side of t-stat house. 177.4°F

Now for the things that worried me.

Center of engine block. 250°F?

Between cylinders 3 and 4 is 283.4°F??
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Far right side of engine block is 217.9°F

Face of head was from 245°F-260°F

Why are my engine temperatures so much hotter that the coolant?

When I was bleeding the coolant yesterday it got up to around 240°F in the funnel but would drop a little bit. Then I went on a quick drive and the temperatures came down much more around 200°F.
 

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The exhaust will heat the outside of the block (you are running a header without heat shields) but the coolant temps are really whats important.

How old is the radiator cap or did it come with the radiator you got from go-autoworks?

If that cap isn't fitting very good it could be a problem, do you have another to try?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The exhaust will heat the outside of the block (you are running a header without heat shields) but the coolant temps are really whats important.

How old is the radiator cap or did it come with the radiator you got from go-autoworks?

If that cap isn't fitting very good it could be a problem, do you have another to try?
It's the one I got from go-autoworks.

Yeah I thought later it's probably the header heating the front of the block.

I have a 90' accord I can probably try that one. I was going to put on my feels cap originally but it doesn't fit...

I found a new oem reservoir on ebay so I went ahead and bought that. The one I have now is very dirty and I wanted to replace it anyways.

Got both my harnesses yesterday but haven't had time to get it all hooked up. Should have time before work today. I'll grab the ect and ect sending unit from my d15b8 in case one is bad.
 

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If it's dirty just fill it with a bunch of rice or .177 bb's and some cleaner and shake it.

EDIT: And with the radiator and cap situation look at the area it screws onto and make sure it looks proper, I have had some aftermarket ones that don't have a good stop or whatever at the end of the turn to close it and it would still turn past the point it was suppose to stop. You may be able to bend some of the metal with pliers or dremel it to shape.
 

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If it was spewing coolant out of the overflow reservoir then it's probably a blown head gasket or a cracked reservoir.
 
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