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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello guys. Finally I start my engine but there is very big problem with idle. The setup is:
- D16 block
- NPR PM6 pistons 30.00mm comp height (CR near 10.8:1)
- NPR piston rings
- ACL duraglide rod bearings (stock mains)
- Stock rod bolts
- D16z6 head (stock ports)
- D16Y8 headgasket
- Crower stage 2 cam
- Supertech springs, new stock retainers
- head shaved only for flatness (0.007"), stock cam gear (so cam set to 0')
- 4-2-1 ebay header, no cat, stock exhaust diameter

Valve clearance is set to Crower specs - 0.006/0.008
The car runs ok when driving on the road but when I stop the engine dies. After start it again the idle is near OK but lumpy/rough. Checking the plugs after 10 miles of driving says that all is good. But checking them again after 10min of idle says for me that the mixture is very rich - they are black.
Next step was to burn a chip (made with crome) - 1000rpm target idle and taking off much fuel around 1000 rpm and 403 - 519mBar MAP range because i read in d-series that crower stage 2 idle is very rich because of the low vacuum it runs.
Finally the problem still exists . The strangest thing is that if i start the engine (cold or warm) it can idle, no problem at all, only rough and shaking. But if i push the gas pedal and take my foot off the RPM can't stop falling around 1000RPM and it dies and this happens only on warm engine (this problem do not exists on cold start).
The IACV was cleaned - no effect. MAP and TPS are attached correctly. Sorry if you don't understand my problem because of my bad english but this is my DD car and I really need your help.
I still think that the AFR is very rich and that's why my car shakes but your opinion will be so helpful to me.
I attach my Crome .bin if someone wants to see it and will estimate highly if someone share with me his Crome map.
Thanks in advance to all! :)
 

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90 CRX Si
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Hey, I have almost the exact same setup in my car at the moment. It sounds like its running pig rich, I know mine did at first. I'll see if I can dig out my old Crome tune on stock injectors (before I went to RC 320's). The only difference is I had stock PM6's in stock bore (Just over 10:1 CR) with a .030" HG, Edlebrock IM and 2.25" exhaust, but it should be VERY similar, same Crower stage 2 cam. I'm at work right now and can't view your map, but I'll try to look at it later. If need be I can burn you a chip and mail it to you. PM me for my phone #.

EDIT: I dialed mine in with a wideband, and a LOT of retuning. Not saying its perfect but it ran pretty solid before the injector upgrade. The only issue I ever had was I think my IACV was (and still is) bad, i just never changed it b/c the IM put it right on the firewall.
 

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Smooth out your low cam fuel map then decrease fuel in the idle ranges.

You might also want to look at your TPS settings to make sure you're ok there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys. I'll check some things today after work and will burn 1-2 ICs.
xotic_crx, I have a Willem programmer and can burn a chip myself so big thanks to you! You can help me a lot only by posting your .bin file here.
I forgot to mention that after putting the new chip in ECU I start the car and wait until the engine got hot. Next I switch on the lights and heater to load it up and after about 2-3min of rough work the idle was stabilized. But the moment when i press down the gas pedal (to 1500 or 2000 or 3000RPM) and take my foot off the engine RPM stop around 500 and after 3-4sec dies .

Does someone know the MAP reading on idle with this camshaft? I don't have datalog and wideband units and that's a big problem. Don't have money right now and can't afford professional tuning :D my only dream is near/or stable idle...
 

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90 CRX Si
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Sorry I still haven't had a chance to post my map, but I've finally got a day off tomorrow and will try to do it. I never had any datalogging aside from the DL of my LC1 wideband, but i'm pretty sure this cam pulls less vacuum than stock which makes it idle a column or two over from stock. I did a vacuum test on it once but I forgot where it was, but it was less than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I also read somewhere that some guy has a problem with idle while using crower valve clearances 0.006/0.008. He sad that made them 0.008/0.009 and idle problem went away. What clearances are you using? I'll wait for you to post your map to try it and finally if there's no good effect I'll try factory Honda valve clearances
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The problem is solved, guys! :) Do NOT use Crower card valve lash, i.e. 0.006/0.008 (cold). Crower web site says 0.006/0.008 (HOT).
So today I re-made my valve lash to 0.008 intake - 0.010 exhaust and burn the attached .bin file which I made only by reading the forum...no AFR gauge, no datalogging.
Now the car has super smooth idle and NO pulsations inside - steering wheel, shift knob and so :)
This is my first engine with modifications and I'm very happy that it works
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I must correct some stupid words in my last post. You must use Crower specified valve lash but be careful not to pass the values 0.006/0.008 (cold). Last month I play with valve lash settings. 1st time set the lash to 0.008/0.010. 2nd time 0.007/0.009. 3rd time - 0.006/0.008. The idle is more lopey with the Crower specs but it idles (at 900RPM) without problems like super unstable idle and engine shut down.
I suspect that first time when I start the car after engine assembling and have problems there were some exhaust valves with a clearance less than 0.008 that causes the engine to die when idles because of compression bleeding (open valves).
So be careful when set the clearances especially for exhaust valves.
 

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I did that exact thing, I have mine set at .008>intake .010> exhaust, it idles but is also running rich, I have the dizzy retarded all the way also...no codes, timings on, it must be tune tim...I just need a chip made
 

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I must correct some stupid words in my last post. You must use Crower specified valve lash but be careful not to pass the values 0.006/0.008 (cold). Last month I play with valve lash settings. 1st time set the lash to 0.008/0.010. 2nd time 0.007/0.009. 3rd time - 0.006/0.008. The idle is more lopey with the Crower specs but it idles (at 900RPM) without problems like super unstable idle and engine shut down.
I suspect that first time when I start the car after engine assembling and have problems there were some exhaust valves with a clearance less than 0.008 that causes the engine to die when idles because of compression bleeding (open valves).
So be careful when set the clearances especially for exhaust valves.
so the crowed stage 2na has 4 degrees of timing ground in does that mean the dizzy needs to be retarted As much as possible?
 
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