[bigodub]

i read so many turbo and n/a threads on this site that i decided to start my own build thread. what im looking for is insight from people that have been thru it with a turbo build. ive built a all motor z6 and after driving it for a while i found out that its really not that fast(162whp). the car this motor is in is a 89 civic hatch (ef). i mean i beat b16's, k20's, a few gsr's but that doesnt doesnt mean anything when i roll up my homies 350z or the modded wrx's around here. i fell like i need more hp, so turbo is the way to go. but i know very little about turbos as a whole so i figured i would show you what a have and give you the results i want to see and if i have any problems or if you have any advice you could help me. thats what fourms are all about right???


ok so heres what i have
89 hatch
si trans
z6 head/block
comp cam 59300
ti springs and retainers
ported/polished head
port matched skunk2 intake manifold
port matched skunk2 68mm throttle body
thermo tb and im spacer
3 bar map sensor
siemens 750cc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
ac autotechnic fpr
honda z6 head gasket
arp head studs
arp rod bolts
aries 9:1 pistons
eagle h beam rods
acl race bearings
block bored 10 over to match piston rings
crank knife edged and cut 10 under to match bearings
oil pan fitted with an steel braided return line
new chinese t3/4 turbo rebuilt w/new gasket and seals so it wont smoke
huge intercooler, very big for my car but it should look great when on
real greddy bov
cheap tial look-a-like wastegate
standard ebay boost controler
obx mini ram turbo manifold
stage 5 clutch kit (holds 540 ft. lbs) with 8lb flywheel (i know its over kill)
exhaust cut out with 2 1/2 piping stright back
turbo piping and other accessories.

now that you know what i have here are my goals:


* i want to boost 22psi on this motor. i have heard that you can boost
up to 27 without sleeving it.
* and my horsepower goal is at least 330whp


now are my goals reasonable. what areas have i overlooked and what do i need to watch out for.
this will be driven on the street 2 days a week or so and taken to the track every chance i can. i have a very very good tuner that is going to tune the car so i dont need help with that.

 

[nitroice40]

not a good idea to cut the crank journals.

 

[sick1camcivic]

if you have all that whats the qiestion? no1 has ever said they will hold 27psi. They break by certain WHP. people are making 500whp on stock sleeves with vitara pistons...doesnt mean everyone can. Thats about all I see you need to know if you have all those parts install them.

 

[scottdh20]

350-400 max on stock sleeves. so you should be fine. hp breaks sh!t not psi. and at that point look into race fuel or e85 just to be safe

 

[99EJ6T]

first i would like to say, that i call :bull: on the beating a k20 swapped/powered anything with a "built" street NA z6. but anyway...

• 89 hatch put it on a diet.
• si trans obx installed yet? if not, install one
• z6 head/block
• comp cam 59300 good
• ti springs and retainers not really needed, but if you have them :TU:
• ported/polished head not really needed, but if its done ok.
• port matched skunk2 intake manifold sadly, the port match probably lost you some power. try and get a stock z6 or y8 IM, since the runners are better for a boost application
• port matched skunk2 68mm throttle body ditch this and go with a 60 mm, well if its a street car.
• thermo tb and im spacer lol, ok this did nothing for you..
• 3 bar map sensor
• siemens 750cc injectors
• walbro 255lph fuel pump
• ac autotechnic fpr not needed. stock is perfectly fine for 400 whp
• honda z6 head gasket
• arp head studs
• arp rod bolts these come attached to h-beam rods anyway
• aries 9:1 pistons
• eagle h beam rods
• acl race bearings
• block bored 10 over to match piston rings
• crank knife edged and cut 10 under to match bearings not a brilliant move, imho
• oil pan fitted with an steel braided return line
• new chinese t3/4 turbo rebuilt w/new gasket and seals so it wont smoke
• huge intercooler, very big for my car but it should look great when on you should have limited the size to that which is needed. no need for a huge one that will sap cfm and psi
• real greddy bov
• cheap tial look-a-like wastegate
• standard ebay boost controler replace this with a better one, imo.
• obx mini ram turbo manifold :sadface:
• stage 5 clutch kit (holds 540 ft. lbs) with 8lb flywheel (i know its over kill) maker please? cause the most i have seen for a d-series is 450-ish tq. well other then a race only version. and even the 450 tq one is an iron puck design. definatly not a street clutch.
• turbo piping and other accessories.

a couple comments for you...

now that you know what i have here are my goals:


* i want to boost 22psi on this motor. i have heard that you can boost
up to 27 without sleeving it.
* and my horsepower goal is at least 330whp

psi is not really relivant to making whp. with what you have listed, its a basic 300-350 turbo build. but some of the parts are not needed or need replacement. its all opinion though.

now are my goals reasonable. what areas have i overlooked and what do i need to watch out for.
this will be driven on the street 2 days a week or so and taken to the track every chance i can. i have a very very good tuner that is going to tune the car so i dont need help with that.

don't be surprised if the first dyno pulls don't give you what you wanted. it takes a little effort to get the little d to make power. but once it starts making it, it good .

 

[4thGEN]

good luck with the turbo and mani....

 

[mindless]

I swear some people fucking kill me. This dude wants to drop the cash to knife edge the crank (not needed in a boosted setup) but is going to use a chinese turbo and wg. Reminds me of the GE sleeved B18c1 I saw on H-t who had a baller ass setup running a ssauto mani....when I saw that I lost what respect I had left for that place.

 

[99EJ6T]

I swear some people fucking kill me. This dude wants to drop the cash to knife edge the crank (not needed in a boosted setup) but is going to use a chinese turbo and wg. Reminds me of the GE sleeved B18c1 I saw on H-t who had a baller ass setup running a ssauto mani....when I saw that I lost what respect I had left for that place.

not the first time that has happend. seems like people stop caring about the manifold since they can get an ebay one for so cheap. even if it doesn't last that long. i forgot the vid, but its from a big "crew". had an ED with a killer body and a swap, but was rocking a ss manifold. it so sad to see people cheap out. as you now personally, i have had one of those manifolds. it worked fine, but if i had not got it for free it would have never seen my car. and even once it was on, the hood never opened.

 

[FarmerD]

i would easily knife edge my crank. if i had the cash

anything that helps you NA, helps you A LOT MORE when you are boosted. (edit: not completely true, but anything that improves VE WILL translate exponentially boosted... more air flow is able to take advantage of your hard work.)

you can reach 400whp with your setup and some race gas easily.


ebay turbo and WG? go for it! just dont even try to the tubular manifolds.


OHHH and i forgot to own all the above comments...
HP doesn't crack sleeves, detonation does.

 

[mindless]

not the first time that has happend. seems like people stop caring about the manifold since they can get an ebay one for so cheap. even if it doesn't last that long. i forgot the vid, but its from a big "crew". had an ED with a killer body and a swap, but was rocking a ss manifold. it so sad to see people cheap out. as you now personally, i have had one of those manifolds. it worked fine, but if i had not got it for free it would have never seen my car. and even once it was on, the hood never opened.

I know right. I mean I appreciate that you gave me that manifold but I was embarrassed by my setup. I had ghetto ass ic piping, dsm bov, bullshit 2" dp, and the ssauto mani. I wish I had before and after pics. Currently running autoworks 2.5" ic piping, 3" open downpipe, Turbo XS bov, ccfab mini-ram mani....I should go take some pics or something.

 

[turboprelude95]

CDM will own you. Remember you get what you pay for. BTW stock sleeves will take 400-500 with a goos tune; and I mean a GOOD tune.

 

[99EJ6T]

you should j, that sounds sexy .

ninja edit: side note for the OP, i hope your not driving that on CA streets with CA plates. if you are, your a brave person. since crushing cars is a cali special...

 

[mindless]

i would easily knife edge my crank. if i had the cash

anything that helps you NA, helps you A LOT MORE when you are boosted.

Not necessarily.

 

[99EJ6T]

Not necessarily.

:werd:

you would have to be pushing the very limit of your build for that to make sense.

 

[FarmerD]

Not necessarily.

explain... i would love to know how something that helps the motor pump more efficiently doesnt help

 

[boostfreak0885]

anything that helps you NA, helps you A LOT MORE when you are boosted.

not tue.

HP doesn't crack sleeves, detonation does.

so your saying you can have a 700hp d series if you have a great tune..??

not true. pressure that the cylinder sees can easily crack a sleeve on a great tune... running 30+ psi with a t3t4 isnt going to last too long

 

[Boosted91]

never pick a PSI you want to run. 22 psi on a 16g turbo is no where near the same power level as 22 psi on a t3/t4 50 trim, always pick a horse power level you want and then build for that and when you go to the dyno the tuner will stop at what ever the motor wants to make regardless of what PSI that may happen to be.

 

[bigodub]

damn i love how you guys keep it real. i hear you on hp cracks sleeves not psi. i forgot to mention that i want to replace my wastegate with a 38mm tial but have not bought one yet. but what spring ( bar number) do i need for it to get around the 22 psi level before it starts dumping? do i need more than one spring?
and i forgot how cheep obx is but i got it for a real good price and figured it would yeild more hp than a log. and sience this is a build thread i guess i should drop some pics.

 

[FarmerD]

not tue.


so your saying you can have a 700hp d series if you have a great tune..??

not true. pressure that the cylinder sees can easily crack a sleeve on a great tune... running 30+ psi with a t3t4 isnt going to last too long

why will something that will help an NA motor not help a turbo motor? explain, dont just say its not true.

i want to know why you all think its not true, then i can tell you why it is true.

and yes, you can run 700whp on a d series. its been done. look back to the foruma one hondas making 1500whp at 60psi in the 80s. its all about keeping detonation down. (and yes, i am fully aware the next limitation is physical strength to keep the materials together... but thats not what we are talking about here.)

 

[99EJ6T]

explain... i would love to know how something that helps the motor pump more efficiently doesnt help

why will something that will help an NA motor not help a turbo motor? explain, dont just say its not true.

but it doesn't help the engines VE. it just lightens the rotating assembly. which makes you lose low end power. fine for a race car, bad for a street car. same concept as a light weight flywheel.

i want to know why you all think its not true, then i can tell you why it is true.

explain then please how it would help a street/strip engine.

and yes, you can run 700whp on a d series. its been done. look back to the foruma one hondas making 1500whp at 60psi in the 80s. its all about keeping detonation down. (and yes, i am fully aware the next limitation is physical strength to keep the materials together... but thats not what we are talking about here.)

true, you can run 700 whp in a d-series. but its not going to have stock sleeves. stock sleeves WILL NOT take that much cylinder pressure.