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Hello, Setup is D16z6 boosted unknown psi currently ran 6 psi all last year ***same setup but tuned in mid june and different z6*** I just have to get more vaccum T's and I'm broke currently like bad broke lol. Smart fire 42lb I think 440 or 450 injectors, .50 trim hyrbid turbo, cast manifold, 8 psi wastegate spring. 3" up pipe. Stock everything else except 255lph fuel pump and ecu (Neptune & tuned last year) The first problems I had was low volts and tune went lean and a check engine light which scared me seeing that on with my neptune ecu so I added more grounds more belt tension and idle volts now 13.7-14.1 replaced auto throttle body map with another auto map /; and IAT that stopped CEL but it still trys to lean out a little towards building into BOOST/antilag. 2 step actually throws huge flames now where as the old motor just smoked lmao. Now should I retard the timing just a bit I noticed this might be the issue as the other motor had the dizzy clocked more towards the fire wall. So I'm wondering mark it and try adjusting but I did check with a light the timing seems good but the dizzy still it's farther towards the front
1) SHOULD I RETARD THE TIMING AND WOULD IT POSSIBLY HELP RICHEN THE TUNE BACK AND IF SO; RUNNING, SERVICECONNECTOR JUMPED DURING?
 

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*****update problem solved: loose alternator belt tension and added a ground from alternator to frame. IAT sensor replaced and changed the map sensor and spark olugs. Now holds 13.5-13.7 volts mostly charging could someone say if this is ideal I've searched and results I found where in that range.
 

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***put dizzy at same spot all the way toward firewall to match old motor setup tune is on point after pulling back dizzy timing and also doing better with AFR now hitting full boost and no fuel cut
 

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Love the Civic
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This is trouble shooting at its finest, answering your own questions, working while you wait for answers and solving issues....Fuck yeah.
 

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94 Integra
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The voltage issue is probably bringing other issues to light. The main problem is likely the tune itself. It's made worse since it's on a different block. Even identical Honda motors will need slightly different tunes. It could be something else, but 90% of the time the problem you described is from a bad tune.

It will be even worse if your tuner never adjusted the latency values for the injectors properly (very few ever do), and Smartfire likely gave numbers that were horribly incorrect. This causes AFR's to change as injector pulse length changes or if voltages change.



Best solution: get a new tuner & fresh tune. A short-term fix is the get a B&M adj. fuel reg kit to roughly add/subtract fuel. If your financial situation makes either impossible then stop using 2-step & stop going into boost.
 
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