Honda D Series Forum banner

41 - 60 of 86 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
what exactly did you modified on EK engine harness?
OBD0 ZC - modified distributor connectors, cooling fan switch connector, MAP sensor connector, alternator connector, O2 sensor connector, intake air temp connector

OBD1 ZC - modified distributor connectors, alternator connector, O2 sensor connector, intake air temp connector

in the US, what you have as an EK is called an EJ, so actually, the ones we did were in the US EJ from 96 and 97 DX models

I would imagine that the EK engine harness has slight differences from the US EJ, i.e. EJ has ELD, EK doesn't
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Have you tried actually searching for any info on this or asking only?
I did a quick google search and these were the first searches that came up.
I didn't read to see if the finished them or figured it out.
I would say at this point sale the DOHC ZC and use the money to purchase a Y8 or equivalent.
At this point I feel you want someone to build this car for you over the internet which will not be the case many will help and give info but only a small fraction will likely help you every step of the way.
Yes I know I'm an ass or a dick or anything else you would like to call me I don't care honestly.
I wish you the best of luck but sounds like its not moving for a while at this time.

https://www.d-series.org/forums/dohc-zc/86735-dohc-zc-into-ek-civic-ex.html

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/dohc-zc-into-ek-944048/


:tank:
I have read all the topics above, as I said in my first post.

Y8 is probably the sh*ttiest motor of them all because of the oil pump issues.

It's not a crime to look for people that can help me at any point, so that's what I'm doing.

In conclusion- don't judge others, because you don't know the actual situation and the sh*t they need to go through (health, wealth problems).

If you can't help me, then don't. Why are you even in this topic? To catch me on my own words, since I'm not native English speaker? Wow.

Why should I sell my motor when all it needs is to splice couple of wires and it will crank up? All I need is some diagrams. If I can't read those- I will learn to or find someone who actually can.

And yes, it seems like "it's not moving for a while", because I have some health problems. Soon I'll be better and I'll keep moving.

Peace.
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
4,174 Posts
so fuck simplicity? sweet. welcome to d-series, grow some tough skin. don't like what you hear? buy yourself a straw

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
OK, It's college season again and I have less time to work on my project. Recently I found some time and started to separate CRX cabin wire harness. Now I have some questions.

Does this brown thing works like a ground for those wires that are plugged into it?




Where does this plug originally go?




Same question for those 2 plugs. Where do they go and what do they do?

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content



 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
486 Posts
Yes, that brown thing is a junction connector. It's a common place for wires to come together to be connected. Be careful though, without knowing how the junction is built it would be dangerous to assume the wires are all connected together without further testing. Sometimes the junction is designed to only join like colors together, othertimes all colors are joined together. You won't know without taking apart the junction or using a multimeter.

Those unknown connectors? Wiring diagrams/factory service manual and a multimeter :) There are some connectors that use the same bodies, and only the wire colors will really let you know what connector it actually is. It's best to rely on the manuals, instead of people's guesses.

My favorite place to get wiring diagrams: www.alldatadiy.com

You can choose your car year/make/model, and pay for a yearly subscription for that vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Those connectors should all be covered in the service manuals and schematics i sent through. Except for that last one, looks aftermarket.
I found that barometric sensor plugs into last one. Would my car crank without it?
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
Just going to interject here. I know you have felt that many here were being discouraging, but hear me out for a second. Many men with multiple electrical engineering degrees designed those two (very) different engine and cabin harnesses, so just splicing in and it actually working has a low probability of success. I am a DOHC ZC/d16a8/d16z5 builder. Your best and easiest bet is to donate plasma, do odd jobs, do whatever, sell whatever to save up the cash for an obd1 DOHC ZC distributor, an obd2 to obd1 ECU conversion harness, and a P29 ECU. This will require minimal wiring and has the highest probability of running once finished. We only speak out against the idea you presented because of all of the cars that we have seen over the years that were left unfinished because someone got overwhelmed with what seemed like an easy thing to do. What you have proposed is outside of 75% of all professional automotive mechanics ability. Those of us that have done crazy things like this before know how difficult it is. If you do the wiring swap out to the CRX harness, I doubt if it ever runs that it will be reliable. Too many connections that could fail. As far as the immobilizer goes. ON the EK, it should say security or immoblilzer on the drivers door glass near the rear corner of the glass, or you can find the immobilizer itself under the dash on the drivers side. (if I remember correctly)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Just going to interject here. I know you have felt that many here were being discouraging, but hear me out for a second. Many men with multiple electrical engineering degrees designed those two (very) different engine and cabin harnesses, so just splicing in and it actually working has a low probability of success. I am a DOHC ZC/d16a8/d16z5 builder. Your best and easiest bet is to donate plasma, do odd jobs, do whatever, sell whatever to save up the cash for an obd1 DOHC ZC distributor, an obd2 to obd1 ECU conversion harness, and a P29 ECU. This will require minimal wiring and has the highest probability of running once finished. We only speak out against the idea you presented because of all of the cars that we have seen over the years that were left unfinished because someone got overwhelmed with what seemed like an easy thing to do. What you have proposed is outside of 75% of all professional automotive mechanics ability. Those of us that have done crazy things like this before know how difficult it is. If you do the wiring swap out to the CRX harness, I doubt if it ever runs that it will be reliable. Too many connections that could fail. As far as the immobilizer goes. ON the EK, it should say security or immoblilzer on the drivers door glass near the rear corner of the glass, or you can find the immobilizer itself under the dash on the drivers side. (if I remember correctly)
Thank you for your honest opinion.

I've never seen any parts of DOHC ZC in my country, I doubt if someone even has a car that runs it. If it happens to find one, what kind of wiring do i need to do to run obd-1 d16z5?

My driver's side glass seems not original...and I don't even know how the immobilizer should look like.
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
For what its worth (and this is close/same engine family): D16z5=d16a8/a9=JDM DOHC ZC. The d16a1 is only similar and shares most things except the block. So when you search for parts, any of those engines that were offered in OBD1 form would work with minor conversion. Again, search for an obd1 DOHC ZC, D16z5/a8/a9 distributor, a p29 ECU, an obd2 to obd1 conversion harness, and some random wiring and you'll run.

Here's a link to a post on the EK immobilizer. If I recall correctly USDM 96-00 Civics did not come with an immobilizer from the factory like JDM, EDM, etc. I may be wrong on this, but seems like I read that somewhere.

Ek3 Immobilizer Bypass Help ! - Honda-Tech - Honda Forum ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
For what its worth (and this is close/same engine family): D16z5=d16a8/a9=JDM DOHC ZC. The d16a1 is only similar and shares most things except the block. So when you search for parts, any of those engines that were offered in OBD1 form would work with minor conversion. Again, search for an obd1 DOHC ZC, D16z5/a8/a9 distributor, a p29 ECU, an obd2 to obd1 conversion harness, and some random wiring and you'll run.

Here's a link to a post on the EK immobilizer. If I recall correctly USDM 96-00 Civics did not come with an immobilizer from the factory like JDM, EDM, etc. I may be wrong on this, but seems like I read that somewhere.

Ek3 Immobilizer Bypass Help ! - Honda-Tech - Honda Forum ...
Seems like mine does not have immobilizer since it is USDM. Thank you for help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
It's been a while since my last post. Got a sh*t-load of college stuff to do and some panic attacks :) , but finally I found some time to work on my project.

I spliced some main relay wires and connected EK and CRX cabin harnesses. ECU works and throws code 13, which is barometric sensor. I know it plugs into harness and is not in ECU. Now I want to ask some questions:
  1. Is that sensor really that important to make a car crank? (yup, silliest question ever.)
  2. How my ECU should look like when everything is ok and i turn the key? I'm talking about that little light on it, because it blinks at first for less than half a second and then throws code 13. Should it always blink at first?
  3. On which of those ECU codes I shouldn't get any fuel into the engine? I think that on all of them, am I right?
  4. Can I somehow bypass that external barometric sensor?
  5. Is there any specific order in which ECU reads codes? For example: if i get code 13 now is it possible that later on I get code 3?
  6. Where can I get constant 12v from? I know most of you gonna say that I should check it with multimeter by myself, but I don't know if I find right 12v when my car isn't running.
I hope you'll understand my situation and I get my answers to keep going
 

·
Formerly weebeastie
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
Do you live around any mountains? I know where you're going with the whole barometric sensor stuff. You just don't want to hook it up, but the problem is this. The Baro sensor is what tells the ECU what altitude you're at based on barometric pressure, so if you ever plan on driving through mountains then you'll need to figure that out or you will blow the head gasket on this poor ZC.

This is Foolishness if you ask me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Do you live around any mountains? I know where you're going with the whole barometric sensor stuff. You just don't want to hook it up, but the problem is this. The Baro sensor is what tells the ECU what altitude you're at based on barometric pressure, so if you ever plan on driving through mountains then you'll need to figure that out or you will blow the head gasket on this poor ZC.

This is Foolishness if you ask me.
I'm down to buy one if i need to. There are no mountains in my entire country. Largest hill is nearly 300 meters above sea level (about 1000ft). And it's only the hill where no cars are allowed
 

·
Registered
89 EF 4wd sedan
Joined
·
567 Posts
It's been a while since my last post. Got a sh*t-load of college stuff to do and some panic attacks :) , but finally I found some time to work on my project.

I spliced some main relay wires and connected EK and CRX cabin harnesses. ECU works and throws code 13, which is barometric sensor. I know it plugs into harness and is not in ECU. Now I want to ask some questions:
  1. Is that sensor really that important to make a car crank? (yup, silliest question ever.)
  2. How my ECU should look like when everything is ok and i turn the key? I'm talking about that little light on it, because it blinks at first for less than half a second and then throws code 13. Should it always blink at first?
  3. On which of those ECU codes I shouldn't get any fuel into the engine? I think that on all of them, am I right?
  4. Can I somehow bypass that external barometric sensor?
  5. Is there any specific order in which ECU reads codes? For example: if i get code 13 now is it possible that later on I get code 3?
  6. Where can I get constant 12v from? I know most of you gonna say that I should check it with multimeter by myself, but I don't know if I find right 12v when my car isn't running.
I hope you'll understand my situation and I get my answers to keep going
The ECU will display a code at any time an error is experienced. You can get them at any time. On startup, if the sensors are not returning signals that the ECU is looking for, it will log an error straight away. Some errors will not be experienced until the car is doing something in particular (running, accelerating, etc).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
Happy New Year everyone!

OK, shame on me that I didn't want to listen to you guys. I'm talking about going obd-0 instead of obd-1 as all of you suggested and said that it is totally doable. I considered it and I hope to find parts that I'm going to need.

As Soul Engineering said I will need p29 ecu, obd2-obd1 jumper harness, random wires and obd-1 distributor. I want to understand everything clearly, so I have couple of questions:
1) Which exactly distributor do I need? I'm talking about model or some kind of code on it (ebay links are fine too).
2) Are there all of the parts I'm going to need? If no, maybe someone could list me everything I'll need?
3) Which wires and how I'll need to modify? Splicing, etc.
That's all I want to ask at the moment. Some of you has made this kind of swap, so I'm looking forward to hear your in depth stories about your projects and all the tasks you've done
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
forgot to mention. I've seen that TD43U distributor will fit. Which models more I can also use? Which car models came with those distributors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Member kmartcivic told me to use my stock (OBD-2) engine harness on ZC DOHC obd-0 engine. He is inactive here for a while. Maybe someone knows or has custom made diagrams on all of the engine sensors wiring/converting? Seems a little tricky and lack of information on the internet
 

·
Registered
89 EF 4wd sedan
Joined
·
567 Posts
forgot to mention. I've seen that TD43U distributor will fit. Which models more I can also use? Which car models came with those distributors?
The EG Si in Australia used the OBD1 DOHC ZC with that distributor. That's where i got mine from. Also the JDM EG received a DOHC ZC also. You've just got to be careful, because some markets had EG Si's that were SOHC.

You can still use your OBD0 harness (which i think is the right way to go - because your injectors will still be OBD0 and you need the resistor box to still be wired in), but you will need an OBD0-OBD1 distributor wiring adapter if you're not comfortable modifying the wiring yourself.

Jlicrx has already mentioned the things you'll notice are different if you use your OBD-0 harness. For those bits you'll either need to swap the sensor/part or the plug on the harness to suit.

Member kmartcivic told me to use my stock (OBD-2) engine harness on ZC DOHC obd-0 engine. He is inactive here for a while. Maybe someone knows or has custom made diagrams on all of the engine sensors wiring/converting? Seems a little tricky and lack of information on the internet
If you've already got the OBD-0 harness, use that.
 
41 - 60 of 86 Posts
Top