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Banned
1991 Civic Si
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys i've been wanting to get my hands on rotating stroker assembly or find out what components i need to build a d16 stroker engine, i rather build a low comp one so i can turbo it later. ant one know any prices or where to look? i've looked at a couple different sites but it seems none of them want to make more business they never answer thier phones or email me back. any help would be great thanks
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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4,639 Posts
lol sorry to be a dick about this but how serious are you or is this just some pipe dream.
 

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Banned
1991 Civic Si
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i'm pretty seroius...everyone around here runs stock B16's and well i like the whole underdog statis and never had any problems with my d16z6 in my old hatch....i have this hatch all stripped and ready for some more power...i'm pretty hard core on the single cam engines....i like to go against the grain....
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
Joined
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4,639 Posts
i'm pretty seroius...everyone around here runs stock B16's and well i like the whole underdog statis and never had any problems with my d16z6 in my old hatch....i have this hatch all stripped and ready for some more power...i'm pretty hard core on the single cam engines....i like to go against the grain....
love the attitude

have you tried researching the oem way of building a stroked out sohc while using a d17 crank yet. it can be a very good set-up if built right and if you dont get too rev happy .
 

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Banned
1991 Civic Si
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
i've heard a couple guys talking about it but never got too deep into it...what all components would i be required to get that definately would help on a bugdet, i try to refrain from getting too rev happy...i have a chipped ecu in mine i shift around 8500 rpm...i never had used anything from gude high performance but after buying thier y8 head package set me ahead of the curve a bit....yea i really dont like beatin my car to death unless i really need to win lol
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
Joined
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4,639 Posts
since your going from a 90mm stroke to 94.4mm. You would need to run the D17 crank/rods/pistons, or have custom pistons with a 27mm compression height made for you.

You need to notch the block and crank girdle for rod swing.

You need to run the D17A2 oil pump.

You need to run a B series crank pulley, or have your crank pulley machined to fit the D17 crank snout.

You can run D16 or D17 crank and rod bearings.

If you use a D16A6 or Z6 block you will need to modify a D16Y8 rear main seal holder to fit. Then you will need to run a D16Y7 or Y8 oil pan, and drill a hole for the dipstick in the baffle.

If you use a D16Y7 or Y8 block, you will need to drill a hole in the D17 oil pump for the dipstick.


alright this should be enough info for anyone to read off of
 

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Banned
1991 Civic Si
Joined
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
ok trick thats works i appericate all the help, if i have any other questions i'll hit you up thanks again man...in the morning start ordering parts peace
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
Joined
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4,639 Posts
jew welcome
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
Joined
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4,639 Posts
true true.. id like a little more rpm's to further equalize the difference between me (D) and others (B)

but thats just me, and my way LOL
as long as its built right i don't see the problem.
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
Joined
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4,639 Posts
true true.. id like a little more rpm's to further equalize the difference between me (D) and others (B)

but thats just me, and my way LOL
as long as its built right i don't see the problem. something tells colins motor wasn't built right .
 

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Registered
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1,281 Posts
yes siroo.. i agree and very good point.. (assembly to detail is key)

, but in my case and my point of view (based on what i can do.. and understand ofcourse)

imagine a D16 with 1633cc (76x90)
and a d15 with 1620cc (78x84.5)

id take the d15, for the same displacement, and for a slight chance in having the capabilities of a b16 making 180-185whp

hehe.. ofcourse , an exaggerated example..
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
Joined
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4,639 Posts
yes siroo.. i agree and very good point.. (assembly to detail is key)

, but in my case and my point of view (based on what i can do.. and understand ofcourse)

imagine a D16 with 1633cc (76x90)
and a d15 with 1620cc (78x84.5)

id take the d15, for the same displacement, and for a slight chance in having the capabilities of a b16 making 180-185whp

hehe.. ofcourse , an exaggerated example..
nothing exaggerated here sounds very enticing indeed hmmm. i rather keep my r/s ratio and re sleeve and bore too 78mm on my a6. and your d15 idea is a interesting one.


to anyone doing this


on the subject whoever builds a stroked out d-series i would stay with oem bearing please. nothing on acl but i trust oem on this matter and a competent builder for this project. just do it right
 

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Banned
1991 Civic Si
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
yea i definately plan on building the motor right, before i joined the army i was a mechanic for honda for about 2 yrs....theres no cutting corners with this project. i intend to start today got a full engine order as a spare block and started ordering parts from http://importperformanceparts.netthanks though guys i found alot of upgraded parts toga rod and main bearings forged D17 pistons and rods...i should be good to go
 

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1,281 Posts
rex... the idea came about cuz.. i told myself if i cough up enough $ for a sleeve job..
lol id for sure do all i can to make it less harsh on the sleeve, be it piston accel. or side loading.. hmmm making sense? hehe

freebies are - bigger bore (deshrouding chamber better for 1mm OS valves w00t!)

nothing against strokers ofcourse.. just thought id share.. for the OP to get more ideas..

strokers' are synonymous to B's since theyre usually big bore small stroke..
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
Joined
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4,639 Posts
rex... the idea came about cuz.. i told myself if i cough up enough $ for a sleeve job..
lol id for sure do all i can to make it less harsh on the sleeve, be it piston accel. or side loading.. hmmm making sense? hehe

freebies are - bigger bore (deshrouding chamber better for 1mm OS valves w00t!)

nothing against strokers ofcourse.. just thought id share.. for the OP to get more ideas..

strokers' are synonymous to B's since theyre usually big bore small stroke..
makes a whole lot of sense man :TU:
 

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1997 Civic Hatch D18Y8 M62 S/C
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2,663 Posts
Yes and no and other options

since your going from a 90mm stroke to 94.4mm. You would need to run the D17 crank/rods/pistons, or have custom pistons with a 27mm compression height made for you.
Yes.

You need to notch the block and crank girdle for rod swing.
True.

You need to run the D17A2 oil pump.
You can also run a Y7/Y8 pump provided you machine the crank at the oil seal.

You need to run a B series crank pulley, or have your crank pulley machined to fit the D17 crank snout.
Or have the D17 crank snout machined to fit a D16 pulley.

You can run D16 or D17 crank and rod bearings.
Crank bearings yes, rod bearings no. Use D17 bearings with your D17 rods. The BE of the rods are narrower.

If you use a D16A6 or Z6 block you will need to modify a D16Y8 rear main seal holder to fit. Then you will need to run a D16Y7 or Y8 oil pan, and drill a hole for the dipstick in the baffle.
Yes.

If you use a D16Y7 or Y8 block, you will need to drill a hole in the D17 oil pump for the dipstick.
Only if you didn't machine the snout as I mentioned above and used a Y7/Y8 pump. Drilling out the D17 pump could result in poor dipstick fitment causing oil and ventilation leaks.
 
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