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I have a daughter racing a civic on the dirt track and trying to get her some more low to mid range power. Car suppose to be "stock".

1) what about chips on these? Best ones?
2) motor is stock all but cold air intake. What about putting a little bigger throttle body on it? Is there one off another year model/make that would work on it?
3) any other ideas to help with this civic engine?
 

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B series throttle bodies are bigger and a direct bolt on to your stock y8 manifold. free up the exhaust if you haven't already. clutch upgrades make more difference than some people realize. I personally always use more clutch than the car needs. lightweight flywheel helps also.
 

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I'm assuming the transmission is also the stock one that came paired with the D16Y8 correct?

The stock S40 transmission as it came paired to the D16Y8 engine from the factory was well suited for the powerband where the D16Y8 is most efficient. The gear ratios were well chosen. Good for quick acceleration and mid-range power follow-through.

If there is any hint or possibility that the transmission may be different, such as one from the D16Y7 or other, you may not be realizing the full potential the stock D16Y8 engine/trans combo is capable of.

If the transmission is not what came with a stock D16Y8, I suggest finding one. It will be the biggest bang for your buck. If it IS the stock D16Y8 transmission, what are the limits on transmission modifications, etc. for your class? For dirt track, an LSD would keep both tires scrambling through the corners rather than just the one with the least amount of traction. Gearing would not change, keeping the trans more or less "stock". Combine this device with driving techniques (e brake balancing while cornering and left foot braking) you could definitely have an advantage using an LSD. It would be an instant traction boost when digging out of the corner that anyone with an open diff might not have. This is of course if the class allows it :) because it is very easy to check to see if your car is equipped with an LSD without opening the transmission.

I guess you could "say" it was a stock, hard to find JDM S20 transmission lol as some came with LSD from factory. I've heard people use all kinds of excuses when other racers call out another to get re-inspected because there are enough people who think they are cheating! Some excuses work, others don't. You "could" use this one to get past the "stock" "OEM" class restriction. If it was more like "only use what came in the car" that would suck, couldn't do it!

For stock mods, the D16Y8 is actually a very capable engine tuned to it's almost highest potential in factory form. There are very few mods that can help it make more power without changing a factory OEM dimension of some kind. The stock header is also a very good factory design. Toss the muffler for better flow, install a glasspack or equivalent. You can remove the cat, but keep the resonator chamber in roughly the same distance from the header under the car. With the stock header and piping diameter, the resonator is something that helps with overall exhaust tuning and flow. Resonator is paired with the header design from the factory to help dampen certain exhaust soundwave pulses keeping the exhaust more free flowing where the engineers determined certain pulses within an RPM range have a negative effect on backpressure. The stock distance from header is the important part, as long as the overall piping diameter is also stock.

As KustomARBuildr said, a stock B series TB with half decent porting and polishing/port and gasket matching is one "OEM" type mod, as well as having lighter flywheel and good grabby clutch disc with a heavier pressure plate (less overall slipping during shift for consistent power to the wheels).

Are there fuel restrictions in the class? You could run higher octane fuel, chip/socket the ECU and have a tuner go to town on the dyno advancing the timing more. You will be able to eek out a few more HPs/TQs through ignition timing.

Also through the dyno, you would have the opportunity to visually identify the powerband so your daughter could focus on maintaining a particular RPM range for best overall performance. Of course, this can also be determined through seat/track time by good drivers, but it is sometimes nice to visually see where your engine performs most efficiently.


Costs (other than dyno time, prices shown are for DIY)

LSD Mod - Approx $700 (+$50 to $200ish for misc parts, depending on what you "freshen up while your in there")
- MFactory Helical LSD $650-$700

Clutch/Flywheel - Approx. $100-200
-Ebay special Stage 2-3 clutch package with lighter flywheel

ECU/Timing Mod - Approx. $450 (+$100ish for misc parts/labor/time)
-ECU Self Socket/Chip Kit $50ish
-Dyno/Wideband/Tuner Time - $400ish (Additional for more runs if desired)


That's awesome your daughter is into racing, and has a cool dad guiding and rooting for her! I'm all for having more women getting into racing/cars. The world needs more dad's/daughter's like you and yours!
 

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THE CRX
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The D to a B transmission switch is a simple plate. You can use that.

Throttle bodies are always interchangeable but get bigger injectors as well.

It's here in NA so im assuming she can NOT have a shot. Otherwise go about 100 for maximum at stock.

Want more midrange get an edelbrock performer x for single cams or skunk2 for cam timing additions.

I'd say all in all port, polish and get the delta. They make sizeable cams amongst others but they got rep here in Tacoma wa.

Ohhhh if you can reset your vtec ignition timing to about 4400. That way you can pop off in second gear.
 

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Meat Popsicle
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I have a daughter racing a civic on the dirt track and trying to get her some more low to mid range power. Car suppose to be "stock".

1) what about chips on these? Best ones?
2) motor is stock all but cold air intake. What about putting a little bigger throttle body on it? Is there one off another year model/make that would work on it?
3) any other ideas to help with this civic engine?
So you’re trying to cheat?

Driver mods are going to yield far better results than hacky tricks like a chip or a bigger throttle body on an otherwise stock engine. Gain seat time/experience
 

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Why would you need bigger injectors?
So you can cheat.....duh.....

Fuel timing and bigger injectors just improve performance response. Some people call it a waste of gas, others call it preparing to go bigger. For NA it's the big push for no fail.
Turbo inject will burn gas regardless of tuneup.
That's why 92-93 or flex

Btw delta can shave YOUR stock cam. This would be more Frankenstein like if you were going obd0 or STAYING stock, converting dp to mp. Etc....

It's either that or the 272 directly. .

Get lighter....remove parts. Especially inside. Sway bars for stability

No. Unless you change the map completely don't bother using premium right off hand. Your cars 02 sensors will flip out. Shut you down.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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dude, quote the person youre responding to or edit your previous posts.....3 posts in a row to someone random is like watching a muppet talk to a wall
 

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dude, quote the person youre responding to or edit your previous posts.....3 posts in a row to someone random is like watching a muppet talk to a wall
Lmao oh my stomach hurts from laughing, best thing anyone has said all day. I'm trying my best to figure out what that guy is talking about....
 

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So you can cheat.....duh.....

Fuel timing and bigger injectors just improve performance response. Some people call it a waste of gas, others call it preparing to go bigger. For NA it's the big push for no fail.
Turbo inject will burn gas regardless of tuneup.
That's why 92-93 or flex
But the stock injectors aren't running at 100% duty. So why would you need bigger injectors? Wouldn't you just tune the car to run richer on the stock injectors?
 

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wow, Haven't been on here in a while and glad these threads are still comical..







Seems gifs arent working..




but click here


ShiftyEyes.gif (80×80)
 

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But the stock injectors aren't running at 100% duty. So why would you need bigger injectors? Wouldn't you just tune the car to run richer on the stock injectors?
Never done that actually. Running rich is something ive tried to avoid.
I'd say if 89 run rich. Don't use 92 if it plays havoc with tuning. Plus bigger fuel pump for the injectors. Auto plan but not necessarily needed.

I didn't get great results putting 92 in the b2 but the b2 i drove was also MPFI so.....no sputter back or dark cloudage
 

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dude, quote the person youre responding to or edit your previous posts.....3 posts in a row to someone random is like watching a muppet talk to a wall
I did. I actually read it and realized how it looks. But it really is all one answer.

Or...for one person. Lol. :tank:
 

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I have a daughter racing a civic on the dirt track and trying to get her some more low to mid range power. Car suppose to be "stock".

1) what about chips on these? Best ones?
2) motor is stock all but cold air intake. What about putting a little bigger throttle body on it? Is there one off another year model/make that would work on it?
3) any other ideas to help with this civic engine?
Like mentioned, seat time above ALL makes the biggest difference.

100% gone-through maintenance, making sure all sensors are operating correctly, mechanical AND ignition timing must be on point.



The easiest and cheapest mods are what you can achieve with a dremel tool and some bits.

Cleaning up the throttlebody and intake manifold can make some very nice midrange and high rpm gains, sometimes in the neighborhood of 10hp, depending on which motor it is, how healthy it really is, and whether all the sensors are communicating properly to the ecu.


Cutting off the stock manifold/header collector and going with a larger diameter can open up the exhaust quite a bit while still appearing mostly stock. Im sure they dont have a rule against "repairs", but that is up to YOU to read them, and ask them any questions beforehand.


Advancing or retarding the timing of the distributor, when done properly, can shift the entire powerband up or down. You either give up low rpm power for high rpm, or vice versa.

ACCEL makes a drop in ignition coil that actually can deliver better low rpm performance when combined with different temp range plugs and different plug gaps. experimenting is your best bet.

If you can, use a manual steering rack, and get rid of power steering, and you also drop a decent amount of weight this way.

By far, the most budget friendly method of improving performance is weight loss. Aside form the jokes of "take a shit prior to racing", going through the car and removing stereo bits, un-needed brackets, etc... WITHIN THE RULES of course....

Lots of methods for improvement.


Heck, welding up your own solid engine/transmission mounts could potentially save you some weight, while keeping the engine/tranny firmly planted can make a big difference, as long as the driver can adjust to it.
 

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Never done that actually. Running rich is something ive tried to avoid.
I'd say if 89 run rich. Don't use 92 if it plays havoc with tuning. Plus bigger fuel pump for the injectors. Auto plan but not necessarily needed.

I didn't get great results putting 92 in the b2 but the b2 i drove was also MPFI so.....no sputter back or dark cloudage
Maybe i'm missing something, but why should this guy upgrade his injectors?
 

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There isnt a reason.

The stock 240cc injectors will happily run as much as 150whp quite easily with a healthy fuel pump.

Im thinking there is some smoke going on....
 

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Maybe i'm missing something, but why should this guy upgrade his injectors?
You are definitely not missing anything. Like mattliston said, some smoke may be going on... :joint: lol

To analyze some of the things said over the past month:

Ohhhh if you can reset your vtec ignition timing to about 4400. That way you can pop off in second gear.
Please don't set ignition timing to 4400...


Fuel timing and bigger injectors just improve performance response. Some people call it a waste of gas, others call it preparing to go bigger. For NA it's the big push for no fail.
Turbo inject will burn gas regardless of tuneup.
That's why 92-93 or flex
Like mattliston and EFB055 have said, in stock form the stock injectors are not run near their limit and will handle just about any type of mechanical modification made to a d series short of going turbo, so no reason to upgrade unless changing fuel types to something with less BTU like E85. Only at that point will you need to consider changing injector sizes AND adding the ability to adjust ECU fuel and ignition programming


Never done that actually. Running rich is something ive tried to avoid.
I'd say if 89 run rich. Don't use 92 if it plays havoc with tuning. Plus bigger fuel pump for the injectors. Auto plan but not necessarily needed.
He said "running rich is something he's tried to avoid", yet recommends running rich right below it. Running rich has it's place, but it shouldn't be a rule of thumb to use based on octane rating. Also, what is an auto plan?
 

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auto plan is for when you are popping vtec stage 34 on all 16 valves

The bigger fuel injectors are for the VTAXZ vortex that opens up with each and every combustion event
 
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auto plan is for when you are popping vtec stage 34 on all 16 valves

The bigger fuel injectors are for the VTAXZ vortex that opens up with each and every combustion event
Whhatt?? Bro, stage 34? Where do you buy that? I'm pretty sure my buddy has a VTAXZ vortex installed on his B series, that must be why his ignition timing is set at 4400!
 

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You are definitely not missing anything. Like mattliston said, some smoke may be going on... :joint: lol

Yes he is.
Stop discrediting people because you can't explain without regurgitating.

To analyze some of the things said over the past month:



Please don't set ignition timing to 4400...

It happened already. Why go high band for TORQUE in an NA?




Like mattliston and EFB055 have said, in stock form the stock injectors are not run near their limit and will handle just about any type of mechanical modification made to a d series short of going turbo, so no reason to upgrade unless changing fuel types to something with less BTU like E85. Only at that point will you need to consider changing injector sizes AND adding the ability to adjust ECU fuel and ignition programming

Are you explaining or asking?



He said "running rich is something he's tried to avoid", yet recommends running rich right below it. Running rich has it's place, but it shouldn't be a rule of thumb to use based on octane rating. Also, what is an auto plan?
What i can't stand are people who pick apart a legit answer looking for laughs. Then realizes that person is right.
I never advocated upgrading fuel injectors. If smoking anything keeps you from building cars you should probably refrain. Say NO to assholes on drugs.

Auto plan? For the turbofied Going up from stock 240's because 150 whp. Such low numbers

He knows damn well no one but autocross and NA LOVERS would even bother.
Why mention E85 above 92-93 anyway? Pump gas should suit fine as stated earlier.
 
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