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Discussion Starter #1
im searching for possible options for a d16y8 engine. i was reading and some say keep the head to the coresponding computer u have other say the block
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Seems you forgot to take your specificity pill today so my answer is......bananas.
 

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well dam now im thinking with them in the other post...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i dont want no track car just something more fun to drive. boost seems nice but das way........ down...... the future
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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If you piece together a turbo kit it's not that bad. But you need to decide what you want to do: N/A or FI.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well i c i can get more out of turbo but budget wise i cant now. so i m trying to see if i can create a set up (head/block) & other OEM parts. that would up my 125hp, for now sp that later a turbo set wont hurting it.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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well i c i can get more out of turbo but budget wise i cant now. so i m trying to see if i can create a set up (head/block) & other OEM parts. that would up my 125hp, for now sp that later a turbo set wont hurting it.
Then just do bolt ons and get tuned.
 

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well i c i can get more out of turbo but budget wise i cant now. so i m trying to see if i can create a set up (head/block) & other OEM parts. that would up my 125hp, for now sp that later a turbo set wont hurting it.
options here you go:

-good header .. not ebay crap but something that has a reputation i am rocking a JG eldebrock header and love it
-intake .. f' a cold air intake use a short ram with a BPI/blox's volocity stack with filter
-cam ...zex 105300 this cam worked great in my n/a car and gave me a big bump in tq and works great with my boosted set up right now
(i made 120hp with 106tq this is b16 area)
-exhaust .. i ran 3" on my n/a application which is OVERKILL but run something that flows and make sure you run a cat stock or high flow


with the above mods and a ls TB and a port y8 manifold (the ls tb and ported manifold are not needed but i was going boosted) i made 120hp and 106 tq with my y8 and loved driving the car everyday .. really quick reved great and i was able to keep up with most swaps (i have a hatch)



but most important don't dbl dip .. meaning if your going boosted by parts that help achive the end goal .. like don't spend 500.00 and a header if your going top just replace it with a turbo manifold ... don't by a aem short ram just to replace it with charge piping .. by a 30.00 ebay intake like i did .. and the flow stack can be used on your turbo and it makes a difference.


good luck
chris
 

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Y8 oiling system is probably not quite as good as the other D16 motors. I also has smaller combustion chambers, so a P29 piston is less than ideal for raising the compression. How much do you want to spend? Real NA horsepower will cost you more than boost in the end.

Personally, my budget build is going to be I/H/E. I'm going to mill the head .040" which will raise the compression about a point. I'm thinking I'm going to run a Exospeed SV909 w/stock springs. I think I'll end up doing a OBD2-OBD1 and run a chipped P28.

-intake .. f' a cold air intake use a short ram with a BPI/blox's volocity stack with filter
There's definitely power to be gained by using a CAI and not a short ram. You just have to be careful when driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
im thinking i would like to go for a turbo set up but i cant at the moment, $$$. so im think maybe a mild/build that ups my 125hp, but when i go turbo it wont hurt the engine much. swap??? yea sound really nice but once again $$$ so D is wut i have and D is wut ima work with
 

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How do you come to have 125 HP now? Are you talking about the stock rating at the flywheel?

BTW, the word is WHAT.

u said i/h/e and tuned. tuned?
As in a chipped ECU like I noted with fuel and ignition tuned for your set up (you'll need it for boost anyways).
 

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imo the best thing to do if you plan to turbo in the future is to get a chipped ecu. you can get more power out of your car right now with no other modifications and you'll need it when you turbo anyways. besides that just the regular intake/headers/exhaust. you'll be lucky to see 115hp at the wheels with all of that. usually a stock y8 will dyno around 80 or 90 with no mods.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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imo the best thing to do if you plan to turbo in the future is to get a chipped ecu. you can get more power out of your car right now with no other modifications and you'll need it when you turbo anyways. besides that just the regular intake/headers/exhaust. you'll be lucky to see 115hp at the wheels with all of that. usually a stock y8 will dyno around 80 or 90 with no mods.

Silverciv put down 117 I/H/E a year ago on his stock Y8.
 

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There's definitely power to be gained by using a CAI and not a short ram. You just have to be careful when driving.
this is incorrect .. CAI's have a larger "aem hump" as it's called in the industry (which means a larger hp bump in the middle of the power band) but that hump falls off fast and does not hold the same hp throughout the entire power band.

Where when you actually compare a cai vs a short ram with a flow stack in the real world at the track and on the dyno the short ram makes almost 5 more HP ACROSS the entire power band NOT in just the middle of the power band like a CAI (conviently at vtec change over usally)

i personally made 9 more on the dyno and picked up 2 mph and dropped .2 in the 1/4 when comparing a aem cold air vs the bpi flow stack and short ram
 

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imo the best thing to do if you plan to turbo in the future is to get a chipped ecu. you can get more power out of your car right now with no other modifications and you'll need it when you turbo anyways. besides that just the regular intake/headers/exhaust. you'll be lucky to see 115hp at the wheels with all of that. usually a stock y8 will dyno around 80 or 90 with no mods.
That's interesting. I would have thought he stock Y8 was a little better. I agree that chipped ECU (assuming he can run one) is needed no matter what.

stock 90 hp... it said 125 on the specs. its a 96 ex d16y8
That's the rating at the flywheel. We usually talk about Wheel Horse Power. You have power losses between the engine and the ground due to various reasons. It's at least 15% on a manual transmission Civic. I would have guessed you had closer to 100WHP, if it wasn't for jew's post.

Silverciv put down 117 I/H/E a year ago on his stock Y8.
Was this tuned or with a stock ECU? I've seen dyno numbers far a stock Z6 w/I/H/E and a tune at 127HP 109TQ.
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Stock ECU. This was at Blueridge Motorsports Dyno Day 2-23-08.
 
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