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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced my head gasket on my 99 civic ex 5 speed and it lasted about a month and a half. It blew on me during a long road trip from las vegas NV to Florida. I made it halfway through texas and the car wouldn't start after filling my tank, when it did start I got back on the road. It seemed like a fuel or spark issue the engine was sputtering and the engine light was flashing and it started overheating. I was leaning out I pulled off the highway and towed the car to a Uhaul, and then I tested the compression cold again at the normal temperature it averaged about 180 across the block but the 2nd cylinder was shooting out water.

so I towed the car on a dolly rest of the way, and proceed to replace the spark plugs, and wires removed my thermostat and even replaced the distributor along with the head gasket again. I have quite a bit of experience doing head gaskets I got the head machined and got it all back together. My timing was off by a tooth and I fixed that issue but now although the car runs better when I park it and go to start it maybe 20 mins later it has a very weak start; where I have to press the throttle to get it to start. It seems to me as if the engine is consuming water or too much fuel I haven't overheated since replacing the gasket and I don't have any codes or misfires. I can remedy this by revving my engine before turning it off then it starts fine no matter how long it's parked.

Now I'm going to get my fuel injectors cleaned and flow matched just to rule out extra fuel being dumped in the cylinders. My overflow did bubble up and got pretty full but after replacing the radiator cap and making sure my coolant system has no air it's no longer been an issue.

Just wondering if anyone has any insight because if the fuel injector cleaning and flow match don't work then I'm probably going to replace the long block entirely.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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The hot start issue sounds like a leaky injector. Popping head gaskets repeatedly on a y8 usually means ignition timing is too advanced, or it's running too lean, the closed shape of the y8 combustion chamber does not control detonation very well under either circumstance. Set your ignition timing with the check connector jumped and the engine warm enough to cycle the fans, then smack the map sensor around a bit and listen for a stumble or miss, replace the fuel filter, test fuel pressure, and verify the o2 sensor is switching rich/lean like it should on a throttle snap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Siphoned the liquid out of the cylinder after running for about an hour and it’s water it’s non flammable
The hot start issue sounds like a leaky injector. Popping head gaskets repeatedly on a y8 usually means ignition timing is too advanced, or it's running too lean, the closed shape of the y8 combustion chamber does not control detonation very well under either circumstance. Set your ignition timing with the check connector jumped and the engine warm enough to cycle the fans, then smack the map sensor around a bit and listen for a stumble or miss, replace the fuel filter, test fuel pressure, and verify the o2 sensor is switching rich/lean like it should on a throttle snap.
 

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You need to drop the oil pan, rotate the #2 piston to TDC, and check the cylinder sleeve for cracks.

BUT

What torque spec did you go with for the head bolts? Honda has then on the LOOSE side in my opinion. I generally oil the threads, make sure the head of the bolt has oil so it is lubed when spinning against the head surface, and torque to 75-80 lbs. This brings the actual torque much higher.

If you re-used head bolts, add 10 lbs to your torque
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So it's still getting coolant into cylinder #2 after the gasket change?
Yeah

You need to drop the oil pan, rotate the #2 piston to TDC, and check the cylinder sleeve for cracks.

BUT

What torque spec did you go with for the head bolts? Honda has then on the LOOSE side in my opinion. I generally oil the threads, make sure the head of the bolt has oil so it is lubed when spinning against the head surface, and torque to 75-80 lbs. This brings the actual torque much higher.

If you re-used head bolts, add 10 lbs to your torque
I went to 65 foot pounds and that’s like 4 pounds over spec I honestly think that is fine I’ve done plenty at 65 and never had a torque issue but overall im going to replace the motor with a jdm d15b vtec fresh start for my car thanks for all the advice though now I know what to do to find the problem when I ever dig through this motor just have to get a couple pay checks and a cherry picker now
 

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Pull the valvecover and tighten to 80 pounds.

If you have to hold onto a couple paychecks to do a d15b, realize that it is a slower motor than the d16y8, and most JDM engines have been sitting for 20+ years
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Pull the valvecover and tighten to 80 pounds.

If you have to hold onto a couple paychecks to do a d15b, realize that it is a slower motor than the d16y8, and most JDM engines have been sitting for 20+ years
understood but I’ve replaced customers engines with jdm motors a couple of times and know how the warranty goes I’ll do the torque but 80 for a SOHC seems too high I would do that for a bseries h or k but on a d series I'm not comfortable going over 70 wouldnt wanna suck out the threads but the reason I say jdm is because I can’t seem to find any motors in my area…. I live in Fort Myers Florida and they sell almost as soon as they pop up plus usually buying a used motor not running in someone’s car is a gamble too and I’m new to the area so don’t know many reputable people yet
 

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Dry threads, oil the bottom of the heads of the bolts, and this is after running a tap through the block holes and cleaning them out. Use an MLS gasket, no compound gaskets. if the head gasket is compound, then 65 pounds is perfectly acceptable.

They are m10x1.5 threading if memory serves correctly, and most fasteners of this size can easily take 100 pounds if the correct grades are used. In this case, proper head bolts will take it jsut fine, and if the threads of the block are clean and in good condition, will accept 80 pounds as well for miles and miles and miles.

I recommend 80 because that is what I have done the last 15-20 years. It is my opinion that honda skipped over the head torque, and it was still being used back with the compound soft gaskets, where a lower torque spec still worked out okay.


That all said...

WIth JDM engines, I would almost make it mandatory to change the bearings and oil pump, and replace the piston rings after an alignment bore. THese engines have sat for so long that things are out of whack.

You being in Florida, likely you will want to use the car-parts website. Search for something super common, like a door, or a control arm. This way you get a lot of results, and BAM, you now have a full list of all the local salvageyards and car scrappers. And contact info!

Sometimes to get a good engine, you just find a car that was smashed in an accident. I got a full K24 swap setup out of an 07 accord for approx $800. Car was rear ended. Ran and still drove, though it pissed brake fluid and dragged a broken control arm.
 

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