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well here is my plans, currently i have a d16y8 turbocharged with a turbonetics t3 and a vortec fmu! on the way is a walboro 255 pump, b&m fpr and gauge! i wanted to run 8 psi daily but after reading here on d-series.org, and being a noob, i wanted to run about 300whp on the d! i was thinking about srp 9.0-1 pistons, eagle rods, skunk2 stage 1 cam, skunk2 cam gear, golden eagle block guard, golden eagle sleeves, arp head studs and some other things! since i have the y8 in the car, i kinda want to build it on the side..i have a d16y5 (hx) motor on the side so i was wondering if i could build that block, then later transfer the y8 head on the y5? would it still be an ex? or would the economy vtec still be the same? thanks for all the help....aloha from hawaii
 
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your going to want something better than an fmu. if your doing pistons and stuff your looking for over 5-6psi and thatmeand a decent fuel management/ecu system, neptune, hondata, and some otehrs are all good units to consider.

FYI if you just buy a new greddy kit and one of the ebay $250 fmic and get a bov and have the e-managed reprogramed and get larger injectors you can run 10lbs on the new kits and make over 200 wheel hp on a STOCK motor.
 

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Definetly going to need better fuel management. The bottom end sounds nice and beefy that you want to build.Since the head is going to come off ya might want to beef that up to maybe port the intake side of head and intake mani to match and port and polish the exhaust side and match it with the exhaust mani. Upgrade the valve train titanium springs and retainers then you could run a bigger cam maybe a stage 2 or 3.Have it tuned really nice and you will have a beast.Good luck
 

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BoOsTeD_eX said:
well here is my plans, currently i have a d16y8 turbocharged with a turbonetics t3 and a vortec fmu! on the way is a walboro 255 pump, b&m fpr and gauge! i wanted to run 8 psi daily but after reading here on d-series.org, and being a noob, i wanted to run about 300whp on the d! i was thinking about srp 9.0-1 pistons, eagle rods, skunk2 stage 1 cam, skunk2 cam gear, golden eagle block guard, golden eagle sleeves, arp head studs and some other things! since i have the y8 in the car, i kinda want to build it on the side..i have a d16y5 (hx) motor on the side so i was wondering if i could build that block, then later transfer the y8 head on the y5? would it still be an ex? or would the economy vtec still be the same? thanks for all the help....aloha from hawaii
biggest thing to do is to research, and sit back and wait a little while you gather all the information you need. please don't just rush out and build the motor, and slap it in. you're on the right track, but i think you need to look at your list, and you need to research as to what will really help, and what you don't need. first, the pistons and the rods are good choices. they're pretty popular, and for a good reason. find out if the skunk2 stage 1 cam is good for boost. you can contact skunk2 and find out what they would suggest as a good cam for boost. but i want to give you one piece of advice, concentrate on the bottom end before you get all crazy on the head. you don't need a block guard AND sleeves. and for that matter, you don't really need either as long as you have a good tune. word is the golden eagle block guard is one of the few you would want due to cooling issues with most block guard set-ups, and sleeves aren't necessary unless you're going for mad power. the head studs are a great choice, and will help in preventing head lift and that type of thing. if you take a y8 head, and you put it on a y5 block, you will not have "economy vtec". vtec has to do with the head. which reminds me, if you're going to work on the head, don't jsut replace the cam, while you're in there, you might as well through in new valvesprings and retainers. but anyways, vtec is based on the head, and using a second set of lobes. both the y5 and the y8 are d16 blocks, but i'm not sure if they have the same ratio and everything. rexinre or the likes would know better than i would. i hope this helps you out a bit, and gives you an idea of what you'll need. also, read the turbo faq's at the top. they may help you in wanting to reach the 300whp goal.
 

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thanks for all the help guys! so correct me if i'm wrong, i DON'T NEED THE SLEEVES and i'm OKAY USING THE BLOCK GUARD? i was kind of confused on that one! sorry forgot to mention that yes i am also going to be upgrading the valves, retainers etc! and for fuel management, i am planning on using hondata or something of that sort! on another note, i heard that the ssautochrome turbo manifolds are good? and how about their turbos, their t3/t4? because i have a turbonetics t3 i believe but i got the motor/turbo set up for like 1200 with installation...i was wondering if the ssautochrome turbos *xs power* are good, then should i sell my piping, bov, manifold and turbo nad buy these other parts? well once gain thanks for all the information and i will surely read and do research and i will surely keep all informed! thanks
 

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i say keep your parts since you already have them...and use money to buy other stuff...i dont really like ssauto, but thats just me...
 

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k1dfreeze said:
i say keep your parts since you already have them...and use money to buy other stuff...i dont really like ssauto, but thats just me...
i was thinking that, but i was also thinking, if i can get like at least 800 for all my stuff, i can just order the ssauto, get the new turbo, the manifold *which i was gonna order*, the wastegate *which i was also gonna order* and just keep my intercooler! not too sure yet,but still thinking! thanks for the feedback tho!
 
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the ss mani is ok but the new obx manis are awsome...they are reinforced with brackets and one bracket that attaches to the bottom of the block...as far as there turbos....they are pretty good....they are just replicated after some major manufactors.....id go with them....if you just put rods and pistons and a block gaurd...get the crank ballanced .....then do some headwork...go with a turbo cam (crane has a good one) instead of a upgraded vtec cam...then add boost and you should hit 300 no problem...and the motor should take the abuse for a long time....u could make 300 on stock block but it wont last long...i had a jackson with nitrous making close to 300 but i spun rod bearings after about 5,000 miles and ruined rods and cylinder walls....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks hatched! i know a frend here in hawaii that maybe interested in my turbo for his ex! if he's interested i'm probably going to ask 1000? idk maybe 800 if he's down! then order the kit from ssauto for 350? but once again, thanks for all the help, and hopefully that 300whp range is closer than i expected it to be! aloha
 
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yeah...300 isnt too hard boosted with a turbo...damn hard with the jackson though...thats why im switching to turbo myself....i have the obx mani though...but the ss isnt much differnt....so good luck with the build but just remember...balance and blueprint the crank..it WILL make all the differance...you WONT spin rod bearings this way....
 

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i'm glad to see that members actually read! wow, thanks guys, this has been only like my 2nd day and i feel in a way, welcomed into the d-series family! thank you and aloha!

oh yah, hatched: roughly, how much does it cost to balance and blueprint the crank? money wise, this will probably be a faster build up then i expected...
 
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well shops will all charge differnt, but i paid about $200... i also put rods in the block...but thats it thats all the build up im doing...im on my 6th motor and the only problem (except one motor) has been spinning bearings...which WILL do a number on the block...the other motor was an all motor mini me with a zex cam and the damn cam snaped by the cam gear and the valves hit the piston breaking every thing
 
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i strongly believe that the bottomend only need rods and balancing.... pistons if your going high compression, but for all motor it will enable you to rev way higher!!!...block gaurd is a good thing too...inexpensive and easy to intall...i guess i would recomend it too...infact i should probably order one too...
 

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k1dfreeze said:
jeez...how much $$$ do you have?!?! where do you get your parts at?
not that much money, but compared to what i was first thinking, its not gonna be a couple of years or so! but i'm in no rush anyways!
 

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hatched said:
i strongly believe that the bottomend only need rods and balancing.... pistons if your going high compression, but for all motor it will enable you to rev way higher!!!...block gaurd is a good thing too...inexpensive and easy to intall...i guess i would recomend it too...infact i should probably order one too...
<---ordering a block guard also! thanks guys
 
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for the head.....port & polish.....skunk or zex springs....3 or 5 angle valve job (stock valves or ferra) and titanium retainers to save some weight....doing an all motor set up this is key head set up...to rev to the 9's!!!! but for boost the port is the most important thing not the springs.....
 

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hatched said:
i strongly believe that the bottomend only need rods and balancing.... pistons if your going high compression, but for all motor it will enable you to rev way higher!!!...block gaurd is a good thing too...inexpensive and easy to intall...i guess i would recomend it too...infact i should probably order one too...
the bottom end is the weakest link in honda engines...if anything, the whole bottom needs to be refortified to hold 300+ hp...rods, pistons, blockguard, micropolished crank, balance and blueprinted...other stuff too, the head is what allows higher revving, not the block...with boost, you dont really need to rev higher...since he's boostin, i would suggest concentrating on the block before anything else...not trying to shoot you down hatched, just trying to help this guy out and try to get correct info out
 
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in fact...my friend has a verry built b16..aka the b19....built by kenny tran and the only thing he has for head work is port and polish...oversized valves with 5 angle job.....oh its a 678hp set up...so that will give you an idea...although the b series valve terrain is a little better than the d's
 

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Discussion Starter #20
k1dfreeze said:
the bottom end is the weakest link in honda engines...if anything, the whole bottom needs to be refortified to hold 300+ hp...rods, pistons, blockguard, micropolished crank, balance and blueprinted...other stuff too, the head is what allows higher revving, not the block...with boost, you dont really need to rev higher...since he's boostin, i would suggest concentrating on the block before anything else...not trying to shoot you down hatched, just trying to help this guy out and try to get correct info out
thanks for helping me out! when i first came on this site i just knew i had a ex turbo civic, now i'm learning to understand my car more! thanks for all the help that you guys are writing on this thread! all feedback is welcomed and greatly appreciated!

<---wow, its late here in hawaii, so it must be fucken late where u guys live?
 
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