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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any tips would be helpful. 89 civic EF hatch, d16y8, almost all suspension mods are done. It's got 7,500$ plus In aftermarket parts going in. Fuel,air,Ecu, brain crower stage2 N/A Cam, Brian crower springs, Titanium retainers, ferrea valves,ferrea oil seals,370cc injectors,70mm skunk2 throttle body, rebuilt vtec solonoid, head studs,.30 cometic head gasket. Nippon 75.5 mm high compression pistons. King race bearings,milled head and block, block guard, 5speed with stage 2 clutch, aem afr, 3/14 catback with 4-2-1 header, walbro 255 fuel pump, an lines with regulator, msd blaster 2 coil set with cap rotor and wires, ngk race plugs, aluminum rad, new hoses and vacuum lines. Probably more to much to list. Need to know should I keep the stock rods with the pistons that are for the stock rods and go for 200hp or should I upgrade to h beam rods and forged. Is 200hp reasonable for the amount of upgrades I have? Also I want to port and polish the head as well as do the oil system mods.

All parts I have purchased for the build.

All parts I have purchased for the build.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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all that effort to keep stock rods lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
all that effort to keep stock rods lol.
I'm not trying to blow the block to smitherines by turboing it. I daily drive it.

I'm not trying to blow the block to smitherines by turboing it. I daily drive it.
So it has to be reasonable for the popo around here.

So it has to be reasonable for the popo around here.
I also don't want to spend any more $

Idk I might do it anyways but I'd have to buy new pistons too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes I would like to, I believe I can do it with just pushing more air/fuel into the engine with a little more displacement, cam, proper tune etc. I know the stock rods can handle just around 200.

It can flow it out no problem. Intake I believe should be just as good.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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It can flow it out no problem. Intake I believe should be just as good.
So I'm going to resist the urge to flame you into oblivion, but you need to read. And read a lot. The only thing stock left on a D16 anything that makes 200 hp naturally aspirated is..........well nothing. I'd say the block can be stock, but to make that number it would have to be sleeved and overbore well past 76mm, into the 78mm range.

I think I have an understanding of where you are coming from. So you are likely either brand new to Honda, or young, or both. And none of that is bad. BUT......

The D16 in maxed out, race only configuration barely gets to 200whp. Nothing in an engine like that is stock. You're Pauter type rods that are as light as you can possibly get, a stroked crank, fully custom pistons, literally 14-16:1 compression. Not a street car by any means.

So lets float back down to the real world. If you did p29 pistons, a decent NA cam, valve springs, ARP rod bolts, milled the head a little and had some excellent head work, a well tuned header, and had a bang up tune it will make about 150 whp which will be fun on the streets. That's about where the street built D series stops because the jump up in power requires so much more.

The easy path to 200 is turbo, but if this is your first build and you're new to building or at least new to this platform, then I would suggest doing a lot of reading and research, and then building it NA first. Those things won't translate to a later build, but the experience you gain will. Search Search Search.

Type this into the search bar up top: 150whp d16

That will reveal more than just 150whp Cars and paths that others before you used to get to your goals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you a lot I'm new to building Honda engines. I used to rebuild diesel Kubota 4 cylinders for bobcats. Just curious about the no notch rods with Vitara pistons. How much can I mill the head and block without the pistons sticking out the top of the block. I just want the surfaces flat for the new head gasket. I might put a turbo on it with a turbo cam.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Thank you a lot I'm new to building Honda engines. I used to rebuild diesel Kubota 4 cylinders for bobcats. Just curious about the no notch rods with Vitara pistons. How much can I mill the head and block without the pistons sticking out the top of the block. I just want the surfaces flat for the new head gasket. I might put a turbo on it with a turbo cam.
Vitara pistons are an extremely cheap option that don't actually match the head that well. People use them, not because they are amazing, but because they are cheap. You will only be able to mill so much to get compression up.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Then should I get a set of forged turbo pistons from weisco?
So lets think about the question you just asked? Should you put a piston that was researched and developed to perfectly match the chamber of your chosen cylinder head but costs $690, or should you use a piston that was designed specifically for a Suzuki Vitara v6 engine and is $100. Valve spacing is different, quench pad is different. They are a mismatch and compression, even with long rods, is nearly untenable.

Again, I get that you did some research and a lot of people say to run Vitara's, and say that they will be "good enough". But when you go to the track, there are the fast cars, then there are all the Vitara builds that literally break every other pass and hold up the whole track. I don't say that as judgment, just from years of observation. And I will add that there are many guys that do make the Vitara builds "last" but its only because they didn't cheap out in other ways and are simply running Vitara's to prove a point. Literally the only reason to run them is because you can't afford better.
 

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Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI / 01 GSR
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For that build it will be like 150whp maybe 160 on a dynojet. Mustang dyno 140whp would be solid numbers.

Id use stock rods with arps in them. They will rev to 8k and handle the power levels. They are also lighter then forged. So for so little power the lighter rods will bea good thing
 
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I'll add to what I think is Evanguys solid advice that for a street build stock rods and ARP rod bolts are the best bet as after researching for at least a couple hundred hours and talking to a very experienced engine builder I went with new stock Honda pistons .5 over because the valve relief quench pads and combustion chamber shape were designed by Honda as part of a combustion system, and Honda are quite good at engines. NA builds rely on optimization as nothing is there to stuff mowar in thorugh bad parts matches. I spent money on machining and honing the bores for the oversized OEM pistons so that I would get as good a seal as possible and spent time on porting (with the help of the engine builder) and softning the combustion chamber. The engine rips. Comps cams 105300 clickety clickety 10.5/1 runs fine on regular and still gets 40 mpg on the freeway and makes nowhere near 200hp. Good torque though and pulls from 2k to 8k (the porting allows the 105300 to pull to the fuell cut). It feels like a OEM B16 in terms of HP. I'd return some parts if I was you.
 
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