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I have a 92 civic dx 4door with a 99 d16y7 swapped in, a z6 head on it, and a turbonetics turbo. Noname BOV and wastegate. It has an idle problem. It runs perfect above idle, drive it every day. At idle, it'll sit steadily at 2k rpm. Sometimes it becomes erratic, and drops to 1k, then climbs back to 2k, then drops again over and over. It also won't rev up at idle, it'll stutter at 4k rpm and refuse to make boost without a load. Its a p28 ecu. My buddy thinks the ecu is programmed wrong, I think maybe one of the idle valves is wonky, an o2 sensor is dead, or the map sensor is messed up. One of the readers. Anyways, advice? Anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
 

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It runs perfect above idle, drive it every day. At idle, it'll sit steadily at 2k rpm. Sometimes it becomes erratic, and drops to 1k, then climbs back to 2k, then drops again over and over.
This part sounds like a vacuum leak/excess air intake, follow this guide:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/270946-how-fix-honda-idle.html

It also won't rev up at idle, it'll stutter at 4k rpm and refuse to make boost without a load. Its a p28 ecu. My buddy thinks the ecu is programmed wrong, I think maybe one of the idle valves is wonky, an o2 sensor is dead, or the map sensor is messed up. One of the readers. Anyways, advice? Anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
This could be a number of things, but I would start with the TPS sensor. Make sure it is right around 0.5v when the engine is off, the key is on, and the throttle is completely closed. Then slowly open it and watch the voltage, make sure it sweeps smoothly and doesn't jump up or drop off suddenly.

Likely you have a few problems going on but start with those.
 

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94 Integra
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The bouncing idle is how Honda programmed it to react to a vac leak or blocked IACV.

Sounds like you may have a few issues, but the obvious prob is a vac leak. The refusal to make boost w/o load is common on non-factory turbo kits because they aren't insanely undersized for the motor. Double-check the wire colors for the IACV/IAT/EVAP as they have the same plugs for OBD1, also check the MAP & TPS colors as those two can be swapped.

Also check that there is the correct cable tension on the t-body. Sometimes people also use the wrong t-body gasket. No FITV = obd2 style, FITV = obd1 style; using the wrong gasket creates a large vac leak.
 

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88 RT4WD wagon
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that z6 head come with a z6 intake manifold? and a z6 throttle body......and a z6 FITV??? I'd put my money on that little bugger being cracked open a little. adjust it, remove it, or plumb the water back to it.
 

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ej8
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.....
.and refuse to make boost without a load.......

:scooter: im just out.


But ill leave this.

Im williing to bet its not tune. And probably not even install correctly
 
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