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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Not a whole lot of updates.

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I finally got to welding tabs for the intercooler. Fitted the pipes better. And mounted the can to the crash bar until I locate the battery to the trunk.
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Welding the bungs onto the vc was easier than I thought. I’ve heard that cast aluminum is a different animal but it welded like normal aluminum to me. I did my math wrong and that’s why there is that unoccupied tab on the can. Can’t install with two studs on top and one facing forward. Whatever. It works fine. The studs are stainless bolts that I welded to the crash bar using 309 filler rod.

I wish I would’ve welded the bungs on the vc earlier. I just didn’t have the confidence.
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Clearly I’m not the best tig welder. But I have improved significantly in my skill and understanding from when I welded that downpipe. I am currently acquiring material to weld a new one and an actual exhaust system. I am going to use vband flanges. And I plan on using copper gasket maker on them. I have heard they are prone to leaks.

Ok. Time for my annoying question. Has anyone had problems downloading their maps off of their s300? Seems like some have issues with the map getting corrupted upon downloading it based on the hondata forums. I have the v3. I have downloaded and saved it. But I am too afraid to mess with it, save as a separate copy and upload. Tuner is not getting back to me and I want to start setting up the boost controller.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Not a whole lot of updates.

View attachment 138220

I finally got to welding tabs for the intercooler. Fitted the pipes better. And mounted the can to the crash bar until I locate the battery to the trunk. View attachment 138221

Welding the bungs onto the vc was easier than I thought. I’ve heard that cast aluminum is a different animal but it welded like normal aluminum to me. I did my math wrong and that’s why there is that unoccupied tab on the can. Can’t install with two studs on top and one facing forward. Whatever. It works fine. The studs are stainless bolts that I welded to the crash bar using 309 filler rod.

I wish I would’ve welded the bungs on the vc earlier. I just didn’t have the confidence. View attachment 138222

Clearly I’m not the best tig welder. But I have improved significantly in my skill and understanding from when I welded that downpipe. I am currently acquiring material to weld a new one and an actual exhaust system. I am going to use vband flanges. And I plan on using copper gasket maker on them. I have heard they are prone to leaks.

Ok. Time for my annoying question. Has anyone had problems downloading their maps off of their s300? Seems like some have issues with the map getting corrupted upon downloading it based on the hondata forums. I have the v3. I have downloaded and saved it. But I am too afraid to mess with it, save as a separate copy and upload. Tuner is not getting back to me and I want to start setting up the boost controller.
Dude, that catch can is dope!

Whats the kanji on the right on the VC? I cant really tell what it is... 3 something lol... that's pretty cool though!

Ive had trouble with my neptune downloading from the emulator in the past. Downloads then uploading the same file would make fuel and ignition table cells zero out or show stupid crazy numbers.

The fix? Its a few things:
  1. Dont use your laptop plugged into the power brick. Make changes while on battery power only. The AC noise through the adapter brick makes its way to the USB interfaces.
  2. Make sure your USB cable has a fuck ton of ferrite beads on it, or use a really high quality shielded USB cable designed for high EMF envirionments. Make sure there is at least 1 bead on each end of the cable, then like 10 in the middle for good voodoo luck. Adding ferrite beads solved many of my issues.
  3. Dont download everytime, only upload. If you already have a good clean tune file on your PC that loads in SManager cleanly, make your changes locally on that file, then only upload the changes to the S300. You dont have to pull the tune to your machine from the emulator every time you want to work on the tune. If the tune file on your PC is in good shape, work on that file within SManager, and just upload your changes.
For some reason, downloading tunes from the emulators must be done ONLY if you have no base file to work from or you lost it locally. Even then, the stars have to align just right for the download to successfully make it without corruption. Sometimes, a few tries are needed, but if you work locally on a master tune file, you never need to download anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Dude, that catch can is dope!

Whats the kanji on the right on the VC? I cant really tell what it is... 3 something lol... that's pretty cool though!

Ive had trouble with my neptune downloading from the emulator in the past. Downloads then uploading the same file would make fuel and ignition table cells zero out or show stupid crazy numbers.

The fix? Its a few things:
  1. Dont use your laptop plugged into the power brick. Make changes while on battery power only. The AC noise through the adapter brick makes its way to the USB interfaces.
  2. Make sure your USB cable has a fuck ton of ferrite beads on it, or use a really high quality shielded USB cable designed for high EMF envirionments. Make sure there is at least 1 bead on each end of the cable, then like 10 in the middle for good voodoo luck. Adding ferrite beads solved many of my issues.
  3. Dont download everytime, only upload. If you already have a good clean tune file on your PC that loads in SManager cleanly, make your changes locally on that file, then only upload the changes to the S300. You dont have to pull the tune to your machine from the emulator every time you want to work on the tune. If the tune file on your PC is in good shape, work on that file within SManager, and just upload your changes.
For some reason, downloading tunes from the emulators must be done ONLY if you have no base file to work from or you lost it locally. Even then, the stars have to align just right for the download to successfully make it without corruption. Sometimes, a few tries are needed, but if you work locally on a master tune file, you never need to download anyways.
Kanji is my grandmothers maiden name. Miyoshi. 3 zen is the direct translation.

As for the map, I do not have the file from the tuner. They never got it to me despite me asking for it. Crappy situation but I’m not upset because it is a solid tune.

I downloaded it with the laptop not plugged in to the charger, and with the usb that came with the s300. I looked at the fuel table and it looked proper, however I don’t know anything relative to this subject. I could post a screenshot of the table, unless that violates the tuner? I don’t recall signing any contract but I want to be respectful.

Anyway I wish there was a way for me to know if the file is corrupt before I mess around with it and try uploading it so I can configure the boost controller.
 

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Just checked. Yes there is a compare function. However it wants to be compared to a file saved on my computer. Are you suggesting I download another copy from the ecu and compare the two maps?
yes ,but don't write to ecu until you are sure it's not corrupt..
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
I finally got around to installing my gauge pod and downloading a second copy form the ecu. The oil pressure gauge is rotated like that for a reason that I will not elaborate on.
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Here’s what I got from the compare function. Comparing the first download to the second:
Font Gas Technology Rectangle Parallel

Comparing the second download to the first:
Rectangle Font Parallel Gas Tints and shades

I looked for the low/high boost parameters but couldn’t find them. Unless “Boost level” parameter is referring to the boost cut. Both of which are the same from both maps. I even looked at the low/high boost by gear tables from the boost control tab and found that they were the same. Even though that parameter is not being used. Not really sure what to make of this, except that this may be a symptom of both maps being corrupted? I know I’m an idiot but some help would be greatly appreciated.
Not sure if I ever mentioned but a long while ago I installed this knock-off short shifter.
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93 Civic HB SI
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Well, I need to get a new gauge View attachment 138376
So when I installed the pod and the gauge didn’t sit right I said fuckit. Pretty much my mindset with the ricemobile since I slapped the eBay kit on. Does this earn me some halp?
Ive always been sketch about plumbing oil lines into the car lol.

Electronic senders FTW :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Stuff is happening… I’m getting better as I go along. 16 ga 304 stainless is a bitch if you don’t have near perfect fit up. Getting better with my amperage control with the foot petal. Learning how to really see what’s going on. But it still looks like shit.
Circuit component Electricity Computer hardware Computer network Audio equipment

Table Desk Electronic instrument Wood Engineering

Ps. When I figure out my living situation for the next year I will be getting some Furick stuff for my TIG setup.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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those are some sharp bends lol.
function > form


also, HOLY SHIT WHEN DID WE GET EMOJIS TO PUT ON PEOPLES POSTS?!?!?
 
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