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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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that's a picture I found on google to explain what Im talking about. the pipe would sit slightly below flush inside the flange so you could weld it solid from the inside.
 
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Welded it to the flange. Completely welded on the inside and partially outside
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I’m thinking I may get a cat to clamp in.

I don’t remember ordering this catch can but I guess I did
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It has 2 in ports and one out. The in ports route to baffles directed towards the bottom of the can. The out comes from that brass screen and it’s passage intersects the filter hole. I’m thinking get a y fitting for one of the in ports and plug the out port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Welded a bung for my wideband. And a tube to connect the dump tube to the down pipe.

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The angle between the tube and the downpipe was a whole lot of fun to weld. That’s why I’m not sharing any pictures of that portion.

I do not have the patience or intellectual capacity to weld the actual pipe bridging the dump tube to the downpipe.
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Roast me
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Is that the mishimoto can?
No just some Chinese can.

I have a question about the wastegate. Do I just use that crush fitting, or do I use it with this shitty looking gasket?
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I have a thermal gasket that came with the dump tube, should I use that for the wastegate mating to the manifold? Maybe use the crush fitting with the copper exhaust maker?

Also my feed line is in fact 4an. I have another inlet flange for the turbo, hole is slightly smaller than 1/16’’. I think I’m going to run this one as is.
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I now have all the parts to slap this together. I’ll only be running 5psi till I can get it to the tuner, so tapping fittings to the valve cover can wait until I’m pushing more power, I’m just going to run the can to the black box delete fitting and the current fitting on the valve cover for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Far out, looks like you found the same supplier as Mishimoto lol, they look identical. I'm running one the same size as that, and it's a pain.
Why is it a pain? Too small of a can? I’ll have to check out your thread if you got it on there, skimmed it in the past but never read in detail.

Was not able to fit the down pipe with the ac compressor 😕

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Intercooler is not centered (due to charge pipe fitment of course).
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Mounting is temporary until I cut and fit the charge piping better. Ricemobile runs though. I got a base map from HA motor sports. Think I need to further calibrate my wideband, gap my plugs and set ignition timing (just with the light). However I was reading that you should retard the timing in Hondata by 1 degree per pound of boost then work up back up from there. This sound about correct? Also waste-gate should be replaced with a real one. It doesn’t really seem to be working, however my boost gauge isn’t showing me crazy numbers, maybe 12-14 max, not too sure if it’s accurate

Oh and the oil feed line busted even with the insulation. So I just went and had one made with a 90degree fitting. Real pain in the ass to change the line from above the car but I managed.

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Inside is a nightmare lol
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Oh and did I fool you?
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grab some good quality exhaust wrap (no ebay cheapo garbage) for that down pipe. Your AC Compressor will thank you!!

Might be time to ditch the power steering. Plenty of DIY electric options (check out forums that are more active with K20/K24/J35 swaps). Or a manual rack. A manual civic rack can be driven by an 8 month pregnant asian chick, so effort to turn is not an issue, even in parking lots.


My lame ass idea for you WAS gonna be, route the dowpipe horizontal to behind the headlight, and sink it down behind the bumper, and put a small aftermarket catalytic converter or something to quiet it down a bit lol. Then you could run the wastegate exhaust pipe under the car to mimic factory setup for visual lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
grab some good quality exhaust wrap (no ebay cheapo garbage) for that down pipe. Your AC Compressor will thank you!!

Might be time to ditch the power steering. Plenty of DIY electric options (check out forums that are more active with K20/K24/J35 swaps). Or a manual rack. A manual civic rack can be driven by an 8 month pregnant asian chick, so effort to turn is not an issue, even in parking lots.


My lame ass idea for you WAS gonna be, route the dowpipe horizontal to behind the headlight, and sink it down behind the bumper, and put a small aftermarket catalytic converter or something to quiet it down a bit lol. Then you could run the wastegate exhaust pipe under the car to mimic factory setup for visual lol
Got some heat wrap from oriellys on there, would say it’s of good quality but they also sell the same brand of eBay gauge I have for boost and oil pressure - iEquis is the name but I’m sure I didn’t spell it right. Also I have a cat I’m planning on clamping in, just don’t feel like it at the moment. But it will run to the stock exhaust. I know I’m going to bottle neck my exhaust flow when I hook it up, but that’s cool for now imo. Also my muffler rusted off along time ago so the pipe that’s there is just a straight pipe with the resonator/test pipe (not really sure if the terms mean the same thing). But I have already welded 2.5 ID pipe to the flange that mates to the pipe, literally all I have to do is cut a proper amount of flex pipe length and it’ll all clamp up.

My boost gauge reads 7 psi at idle. And close to 20 when I really get on it. However based on the fact that it reads positive pressure at idle leads me to believe that I’m not hitting 20 psi. But I have proven myself to not be the most intuitive person. But the AFR on the AEM UEGO always reads below 14.7 in the green. So again that makes me confident that I am not anywhere close to 20 psi. Though the guys at HA who made that base map may have seen that I’m running 1000cc injectors and thought to themselves “this guy means business.” 🤣
 

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Mentioned deleting power steering, because that would allow shooting the downpipe right out towards the headlight corner, and maybe even out of the fender lol

I did say it was kinda lame ass idea of mine
 

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If you're seeing 7 psi at idle, that's the best turbocharger ever made.

Also, 14.7 across the board? Nice, perfect. Those guys at HA motorsports hit the nail on the head!

Lol, yeah you've got issues somewhere. Hopefully you can get em fixed and bring this thing straight to a tuner.
 

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7psi is fine, its simply not taking into account atmospheric pressure.

so its making roughly 6-7 psi under turbo boosting.
 

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Why is it a pain? Too small of a can? I’ll have to check out your thread if you got it on there, skimmed it in the past but never read in detail.
The size would've been fine if it actually separated the oil from the air, I plumbed it without a return to begin with (vent to atmosphere) while i got a feel for how fast it would fill. Instead, the can rarely is over 1/4 full and just blows the oil straight out the vent hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited)
I connected some flex pipe to the dump tube that I chopped and welded. Yeah it’s touching somethings. But the heat wrap seems to be doing its job. It’s been like a week and nothings caught on fire yet
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The flex pipe connects to the down pipe. I did end up clamping in a cat but it hung pretty low and the stock exhaust pipe really bottle necks flow. So I’m back to open down pipe for now. Thinking about getting an eBay fart cannon or just welding my own straight pipe. Cat would make it it less obnoxious.

I was doing a 30 minute highway drive. After a decent amount of time running my afr starting leaning hard core. It could be one of two things. Sensor issues - sometimes I can just kill it and restart then my afrs read fine. Or my welds start to fail and air sucks in before the wideband. My buddy suggested this may be due to heat differential from the pipe heating up and also the outside conditions - he has a degree in aerospace engineering. However it would be a small leak because if that was the case then it manages to reseal itself.

Also:
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Lol. Plugged the “out” oil return hole. I would get some y fitting for one of the “in” holes for when I get around to tapping or welding fittings to the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 · (Edited)
Car made 280 at 13 pounds at the tuner a week or two ago. Thinking I may get the Hondata boost control solenoid eventually so I can run boost by gear. Maybe.
I picked up a z6 tranny for $40, probably cause of the wiggle in the input shaft. Got it all taken apart right now and ISB is on its way. I need a new counter shaft bearing (the top one not the needle bearing) but I can’t find it, at least not in a rebuild package. Which I don’t really need. Synchros look good.
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The counter shaft bearing I mentioned:
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I took this picture right before I popped the plastic piece on. So yeah I should probably replace that. Could I source it off the old tranny? I would heat the inner race of the bearing and hopefully it will come off in one piece.
I shortened one of the charge pipes and welded the barb back on:
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Does the weld look alright? I need to extend another pipe a little. Is it alright to use a part of the old y7 ram intake which is of a wider diameter? It slips (not a loose fit) over the other pipe I need to extend.
 
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