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Discussion Starter #41
That fitting has had a few fists shaken at it ,I was tuning a guys build ,turbo seized had the same fitting not drilled out but had fuckin' teflon tape plugging the hole..

if the oil feed fitting feels like spaceage light weight chineesium ,becarefull when tightening it ..

I've been using 1/16 feed hole on most of the turbo's I used.don't want to snake too much from the bottom end.
Figured I ought to have started smaller on the hole. But I already drilled it to 7/64. Thinking imma order another one just in case. However I was thinking maybe just don’t run a shim on the oil pump if the hole I drilled is bigger than it should be.

I’m going to do what the guy did in the video with the drain fitting. I am certain that the way I have the turbo clocked, that the current fitting is going to hit the block.

I gotta start practicing welding aluminum to I can get that bung on the oil pan.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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no weld lol. make sure you locktite it

 

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Discussion Starter #43






no weld lol. make sure you locktite it

👍 just ordered both. I was honestly wondering when you were going to roast me here. Guess you don’t even have to see my welds to know I have no business welding that bung on

So with that barb on the 90 degree fitting, do I just slide the hose over and hose clamp it? Seems like the right course of action to me.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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yes.

and welding aluminum can be a pain in the ass. either warping it, or blowing a hole through it. not to mention the tediousness of cleaning it.

are you talking about the welds on the ecu holder? hahaha

136963
136964

136965
 
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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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not to hijack, but my stainless isn't much better either lol

136967
 

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Discussion Starter #46
not to hijack, but my stainless isn't much better either lol

View attachment 136967
I’ve tried aluminum. Can stack dimes on a flat surface but when I tried a butt joint I could not get the arc to melt the two sides together. Probably contamination. What I’ve learned from practice on steel is that prep and fitment is the most important part. At least for TIG. If everything is well prepped and fitted the welding part is easy.
I just ordered some stainless exhaust pipe so I can modify the down pipe to work around the ac compressor. And an o2 bung for easier access. Gunna use a lot of argon for the back purge though.

As for the ecu box I made. Thin sheet metal is a bitch to weld. But if you can cut everything to fit well you can melt it together without filler rod.

I made this thing for my grandmother out of three sheets of thin mild steel. Wish I got a picture of the sides but because I clamped it together I just melted the sheets together and the weld was clean asf.
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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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autonomous welding is the tits lol.

and yesh, dirty aluminum will not butt joint. I like to use the saying
"welding aluminum is like sex. gotta get clean before you start, and when youre starting to have fun, you gotta stop and take another shower"
 
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Discussion Starter #48
Got my wide band, afr gauge, hondata 4 bar map sensor, and walbro 255 today. And some a nitrous…
27A94740-43E8-4D11-9942-421CDC920105.jpeg


A couple days ago I drilled my oil feed flange out to 7/64’. Ordered a new one and imma drill that out to 1/16’. Hole I drilled looks a little big so I ought to test a smaller one. But I got this one incase 1/16’ is too small.
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I never got picture of my oil pump after I ported it. I didn’t get that JB weld like compound to smooth the part of the pump that feeds into the block. But nonetheless the pump probably flows better than it did unmodified. When I swap oil pans do you guys think I ought to shim the pump? I was watching a video earlier by hunter tuned, and he said that Honda’s have more than adequate oil pressure. But I have also read that d series pumps loose pressure at higher rpms. I’m not looking to make this car super powerful, 200-300 whp and I’m happy.
 

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got any 10-12 gauge wire terminals with "eyes"?

cut the eye off, there is your oil shim.

If you have access, shimming is never a bad thing. Just dont over shim it.

porting the oil pump has its own benefits without smoothening the flow with compound of some sort.

Wouldnt be a bad idea to super clean the oil pump. it NEEDS to be as clean as possible when working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
got any 10-12 gauge wire terminals with "eyes"?

cut the eye off, there is your oil shim.

If you have access, shimming is never a bad thing. Just dont over shim it.

porting the oil pump has its own benefits without smoothening the flow with compound of some sort.

Wouldnt be a bad idea to super clean the oil pump. it NEEDS to be as clean as possible when working on it.
Shim plus 1/16’ hole on the oil feed flange seems like the right course of action to me. Of course I don’t really know this but intuition and what I’ve read tells me that I should definitely start with smaller hole if I shim. Also I bought an oil pressure gauge.

Really wish I took pictures of the pump after I ported it. But I cleaned it up before and after working on it. Haven’t seen and metal when draining my oil. So I think I’m good there.

I’m thinking when I get my 2.5’ stainless exhaust pipe I’ll make some videos of the build.
 

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smaller hole at the turbo feed means more pressure, but if you are shimming, I would definitely recommend watching the turbo and exhaust, and if you ever see oil coming out the downpipe, open up that oil feed hole a tiny bit. It will drop pressure, but increase flow slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
smaller hole at the turbo feed means more pressure, but if you are shimming, I would definitely recommend watching the turbo and exhaust, and if you ever see oil coming out the downpipe, open up that oil feed hole a tiny bit. It will drop pressure, but increase flow slightly.
Guess my intuition is wrong.

if it was an oem turbo with a long 3an feed line your hole would be fine ....
Paper that came with the flange says connect to 4an line. So I’m assuming the line I have is 4an. Honestly have no idea what unit of measurement “an” is. I’ll look into it.
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an is of "x/16"
an AN16 would be a one inch fitting. AN8 is a half inch fitting
 
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Discussion Starter #55
an is of "x/16"
an AN16 would be a one inch fitting. AN8 is a half inch fitting
Got it. The braided hose itself is almost 3/8’ in diameter. So I’m going to assume the inner hose is about 2/8’ making it a 4an.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
The catch can that came with the kit looks like this
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This is what I’m thinking. Big barb at the top goes to where the black box goes into the block. Then the other two go to the valve cover.
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I would buy:
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My question is why is the black box fitting threaded on where the hose should hook up?

Edit: I see that the two fittings in one of the pics say that they are for b series. My plan was to get two fittings like that and tap the valve cover.
 

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Does that catch can "vent"? It looks like a cap on the top?

If you use all 3 hose fitting on the can, and that cap basically closes the top of the can then its not venting crankcase gases, its a crankcase gas recirculation system.... lol

One of those lines should be a vent hose or similar. That catch can is kinda dinky...


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Discussion Starter #60
So maybe the intent with the can that came with the kit is that you run a filter on the top barb. And two lines to the bottom two. When I get back home I’ll look in the can to see if the bottom fittings are open or are some kind of valve. Because if they are open then any oil will just get recirculated. From my understanding -which has proven to be unreliable- you ought to periodically drain the can.

If I run a can with only two fittings, be it that I use the one with the kit, or buy another. Could I just run one from where the black box was with an adapter, and another from the existing port on the valve cover? The one with the hose that goes to the intake pipe before the throttle body.
 
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