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There is a lot of conflicting information about what plugs and plays OBD2-OBD1. I guess I can verify what does and doesn't. One of the issues I have ran into is that people aren't willing to re-pin connectors or splice in different connectors, so they brush it off and then go and say that you cannot do it entirely.
Builds looking good but whats with the purple rad hose?

curious about iacv but why?

most people have no clue but what is conflicting about it?

are you looking for a howto?

it can't be done!but don't be mad ...


:)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Builds looking good but whats with the purple rad hose?

curious about iacv but why?

most people have no clue but what is conflicting about it?

are you looking for a howto?

it can't be done!but don't be mad ...


:)
Purple hoses are just some ricer "mod."

The y7 IACV resides on the throttle body and is a 3 wire IACV. I have a junkyard 2 wire IACV which is on the back of the IM. I

The conflict is the p28 ecu that I am using, and it runs with a two wire IACV. Not looking for a how to, I already re-pinned one of the IACV wires and removed the other on the b plug (car is 99-OBD2B), odd cause the plug actually says A. Anyway I have read that with the re-pin, the 3 wire IACV works. I guess the only thing i really need to figure out to do the 2 wire IACV is where wire goes to which on the plug, since I got a generic 2 wire plug from the junk yard.
 

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FF Squad or something similar, has a write up on converting between 3 and 2 wire IACV. It is possible, though I forget if its only repinning some wires, or if anything is added.

OBD2A and OBD2B vehicles can both receive a simple repin to hook OBD1 ecu plugs directly. Just a tiring process for most. BUT since most cheap jumper harness's end up being full of issues, the repin idea is generally your best bet for reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
FF Squad or something similar, has a write up on converting between 3 and 2 wire IACV. It is possible, though I forget if its only repinning some wires, or if anything is added.
I ended up just swapping the plug and going with the two wire -I had to extend the plug so i figured why bother with the three wire. Still had to repin anyway even with the jumper harness I got.

Started the car and it runs. However the idle is high, couldn't tell you what it is because my tac isn't working for whatever reason. It was working before I pulled the engine. I doubt it, but maybe it has something to do with the fact I haven't wired the v-tec solenoid yet?
 

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blue wire at the distributor plug should be tach output if memory serves me correctly. test for proper conenction to its designated ecu pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
blue wire at the distributor plug should be tach output if memory serves me correctly. test for proper conenction to its designated ecu pin.
Interesting. For the dizzy I followed the guide from spdweb which instructed to move the yellow/black wire from the second plug to the empty spot on the big plug (from the dizzy). Blue wire was left on the second plug which was left unplugged. I sort of remember the tach working when I first started it, but that could be a false memory.
 

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Alright, so I re-adjusted my valve lash, still ticks but not as bad. Ive seen two methods to do this, rotate the crank to TDC, do intake and exhaust on cylinder 1, rotate 90 degrees do 3... I did this the most recent time. Other way is to observe when the valves open then rotate the cam 180 degrees away then adjust the lash on those rockers. I did this twice before attempting the first method. Specs I went by the first two times were 0.09-0.011 in. on exhaust and 0.07-0.09 intake. The third time I watched some video where the guy specified 0.2 mm intake and 0.25 exhaust. Honestly I may be over-concerened about the ticking noise, as I got some other things to figure out.

I ordered a new IACV, the two wire one I had I had gotten from the junk yard, cleaned it and no difference. The issue is the high idle.

Also, the car smells like its running rich, I have OBD1 injectors from a b7 from the junk yard, the header started glowing red within minutes of idle. Not sure if this is due to it being a crappy eBay product, or from running rich.
 

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I wouldnt trust junkyard injectors. They tend to get stuck from sitting.

Perhaps try cleaning them DIY style. There is a video on youtube I see every once and a while. I think its wratchets and wrenches, he uses a 9v battery, some wiring, and carb cleaner (no brake cleaner!) and gets them spraying much nicer.

Ive had many ebay headers over the years. Outside of horrific uneven flanges that need to be sanded smoother, and the occasional cracking at welds, they never glowed red or even orange at idle.


Un burned fuel is a bitch to deal with, you cannot always nail down whether its injector related or ignition related until you dig in.
 

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I wouldnt trust junkyard injectors. They tend to get stuck from sitting.

Perhaps try cleaning them DIY style. There is a video on youtube I see every once and a while. I think its wratchets and wrenches, he uses a 9v battery, some wiring, and carb cleaner (no brake cleaner!) and gets them spraying much …
Thanks for the suggestion I’ll do this when I can work on the car again. But would dirty injectors cause the car to run rich?

Today I tested the TPS and found it was 0.01v at the closed position. I pulled it off to find that the two metal tabs on the throttle body we bent so I revert them to the original position they should have been and recalibrated the TPS it now idles noticeably lower.

I learned that you can read codes off the car by jumping the service plug and observe the CEL flashing. Right now I’m throwing a code for the IAT, vtec oil pressure switch (not wired in) and primary oxygen sensor heater. Codes 10, 21 and 41.

Car still smells like it’s running rich so I’ll try cleaning the injectors. I read on another forum that a guy just ignores his code 41 (primary oxygen sensor heater. And hopefully 21 will go away when I wire the vtec solenoid in. I am going to chop the old IAT plug and wire it to the older IAT which plugs into the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Cleaned the injectors - not the problem but its good to mark things off as issues. I forgot that I had to block off the IACV on the throttle body. Its odd, because the high idle turned into a idle surge - fixed by blocking off the old IACV. But now, it has a on and off mini surge like 900-1100 rpm. Yes I bled the coolant.

Is it possible that the TPS is bad even if it has the correct voltage readings? 0.49v at fully closed and at wide open is a little less than 4.5, 4.39 I believe but I can't remember. The car has a steady idle when the TPS is unplugged.

Also its still clicking! I've done the valve lash many times but the clicking is still very audible, could it be the injectors? How much clicking do you guys have on your engines?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I wired in the vtec solenoid today. No more CEL! I wonder what happened to my code 41 for the o2 sensor, that disappeared a while ago though. I did my valve adjustment again, .007 on intake, .009 exhaust. Its weird, the clicking isn't there as much when the engine is cold, but when it reaches temp its back.

Cold:
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Warm:
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" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Figured out the source of the clicking, bad LMA's. As in: I had no LMA's at all! Lol. Did my first 50 miles and changed the oil:
No coolant or obvious metal chunks so I'm happy
135500


I still have a surging Idle. I cannot figure out what it is, no vacuum leak: car dies when TB is covered.
No leak through the old IACV port: when the hole inside the TB to the old IACV is covered no change.
MAP sensor is good: car dies when it is unplugged.
TPS is good: correct voltage readings at CT and WOT.
It may possibly be the IACV, but it is a new one - not OEM honda some Chinese brand off of amazon, I have an OEM honda one from the junk yard, I think I'll try that tomorrow.

I have bled the coolant, but if anyone has any other ideas Im open. oh and the injectors are not clogged.
 
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