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I drive my civic
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to turbo my 98 civic lx (d16y7) 5speed
Going for 200-250ish HP.

What I think I need:
75mm Vitara Pistons
Walboro 255 fuel pump
Skunk2 alpha series con rods
D16y8 intake manifold for M/T
P06 ecu M/T
OBD2a-OBD1 conversion harness

Now I'm lost...never had to tune a Honda, I'm thinkin about Crome for the tune...

Suggestions, comments?

Problems I may run into? I've done plenty of reading.

Any help is good help, unless you are wrong, but I won't be the one to say so.

Thanks

Also I live in the Saginaw,MI midland, mi area, love to meet up with some people in the area. See what's possible with a single slam.
 

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Eg Sedan
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133 Posts
No.

200-220 for your stock motor AFTER a leakdown/compression test with good results.
If switching pistons, go with forged rods of which you are on the right track. I know nothing about Sk2 rods, honestly wouldn't trust because of name but I'm sure someone has experience with them.
If going with Vitara pistons, I highly suggest boring to 75.5 and set your own p2w gap. Mine will be .005, vitara's tend to like loose clearances. Vitara pistons and eagle rods has been a proven setup, time and time again. Wait for responses about your Sk2 rods though.
Fuel pump is on the right direction. If you only want 200-250 whp, you will need at least DSM 450 cc injectors w/resistor box. Go ahead and get bigger, because in time you will want to up the boost if you build the block.
Switch to p28 ecu and chip. I don't know anything about p06, again someone will chime in.
I recommend crome, if it's a custom version with added features and bugs fixed, or Neptune which I prefer. Hondata s300 is whatever, only use if this is what your tuner is ABSOLUTELY best with. I prefer Neptune over s300 any day.
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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save yourself the money now and just stick to the lower end of your goal at 200hp, with a small great spooling turbo you wont need that extra 50hp. if you absolutely need more than 220hp then build the block and go for more than 250, to me 50hp is not worth having to spend $1,000 to build the block.

if your going to use vitaras dont use eagle or skunk2 rods, eagles are good and im sure skunk 2 is ok but you want custom length rods with vitara pistons or you will have a terrible compression ratio. are you going to try tuning this yourself or have someone do it? any obd1 manual transmission ecu should work, dont get stuck on the numbers because they can almost all be converted to something else and plus your not going to have the stock map in the ecu anyways.
 

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ej8
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You seem to be on the right track but what kind of turbo you believe your use?
That will effect a few things.
A real small turbo would need more psi and of it around 9 or higher your need a bigger map sensor.

Also if your going with crome you might as well get the pro with data logging and real time programing. If your tuning yourself it will help alot
 

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I drive my civic
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The rods and pistons are mostly insurance against detonation.
Planning on running a t25, I'm not looking for much, quick spool, gonna daily drive the car.
Maybe 5-6 psi to start, id like to tune it myself, I've been reading up on crome the last few weeks
@Blu3: what rods would you suggest, id rather not have to mill the block if I can avoid it

I'm trying to respond to everyone haha.
Anyone else?

Another thing, is it safe to drive a turbo charged car if traveling any real distance, like say 1200miles? In one shot? I'm planning on visiting Asheville, NC soon
 

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crx
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with a T25 you can run stock rocks. im running PR4 rods which are from the B18B/B20 since I knew I was going ot get a bigger turbo later on. im running a DSM T25 and with its OEM wastegate I get 10PSI max which it reaches at 3,000rpm. this turbo spools up real quick. real good for coming out of corners. I have a crx that's pretty much gutted and weighs under 1900 lbs . heres a video where I took it to 70mph.

my car is in the body shop now but as a daily driver its fine. I drive 70 miles a day on my commute to work.

only issue I had was cooling . in the summer it gets real hot out and car got hot in traffic once. the turbo sits right in front of my full size radiator and heats it up so I had to get stock condenser fan. stock fan radiator fan wouldn't fit cause downpipe was fabbed up with 12" universal slim fan. so I used an integra condenser fan.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GrY8lfMDo0
 

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Eg Sedan
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Vitara eagle is not that bad. If you have not driven one, then well... you cant tell lol. Custom length rods are well.. good if you want them, but eagles are definitely quality.

He will be suggesting FJT custom rods or I forget the other company.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So if I go with the vitara/eagle setup, what will have to be done to get compression back to normal, the ones I'm planning on getting are low compression, internals scare me haha, I know I can leave them stock, but what could I do to combat detonation?
 

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crx
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always use highest available octane, get a thermal intake manifold gasket, good intercooler and good tune. and colder range plugs I run NGK 4644 which are the BKR7E11 . with a good tune detonation shouldn't be an issue especially with low boost.....
 

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ej8
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The car doesn't stay in boost the whole trip so there shouldn't be a problem with long trips.
The best thing to do is get a boost gauge and install it. Watch the gauge. When it hits 0 in hg that's around the time the turbo would get it.
If you never been in a turbo car it will give you an idea of how it works.

As far as heat under the hood. The turbos do make more hwat. A hwat blanket and header wrap will work great for it tho.

And if your looking ac then your have a nice air flow to the turbo.
 

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crx
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a free flowing exhaust helps out. netter flow means less heat that get backed up into the engine and less lag. I live in florida where theres no inspections so I don't have a cat but I run a chambered muffler to keep the noise down....
 

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May I also mention that if you use standard length eagle rods with Vitaras your motor is no longer an interference engine. Therefore, break all the timing belts you like without having to have head work done.
 

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I drive my civic
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Discussion Starter #18
So this is what I have so far...am I missing anything?

T25 Turbo: $250 http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=331127944584
T25
Turbo Manifold: $99.50 GSP Civic CRX Del Sol SOHC D Series D15 D16 T25 T28 Flange Cast Turbo Manifold | eBay
D16y8 intake manifold: $75.99 D16Y8 Intake Manifold Honda Civic EX | eBay
P28 ECU: $70 to be chipped P28 ECU Honda Civic OBD1 | eBay
Intercooler and piping: $148.98 cheap from ebay
Oil/water feed return kit: $65. GSP Turbo Charger Oil Water Feed Drain Line Kit T25 T28 T25 T28 G28 GT25 GT28 | eBay
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
Joined
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1,312 Posts
The rods and pistons are mostly insurance against detonation.
Planning on running a t25, I'm not looking for much, quick spool, gonna daily drive the car.
Maybe 5-6 psi to start, id like to tune it myself, I've been reading up on crome the last few weeks
@Blu3: what rods would you suggest, id rather not have to mill the block if I can avoid it

I'm trying to respond to everyone haha.
Anyone else?

Another thing, is it safe to drive a turbo charged car if traveling any real distance, like say 1200miles? In one shot? I'm planning on visiting Asheville, NC soon
Rods and pistons are probably good insurance for a noob tuner just starting out but ive been hearing vitaras dont like detonation much. P2p0.com has custom length d16 rods pretty cheap and rc autoworks sells custom length also, I think fjt custom length rods were the only rods that did not require notching the block. I know eagles require notching which most forged rods do.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
With this setup what basemap should I run?
Also I'm thinkin of going with a t04e turbo instead of t25. More options.
 
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