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Discussion Starter #1
Bought a 99 civic dx hatch with the y7. I wanna upgrade the thing but a car that is not running mint isnt worth upgrading. Here are some issues if some of you guys could give some input it would be much appreciated.

LOW IDLE
Cold start (-20 celcius) the car will shake and rumble at 200 rpm, after a few seconds proper idle rpms are achieved. After warming up the car will run at roughly 800 rpm at idle. When I drive it to work and back (20 mins in cirty and 30 on highway. The rpms will come to a stall almost every day. Every time I pull off the gas and push the clutch the idle will stay around 200 and slowly pick up. Hard braking literally brings the car down to a stall. Also with the recent weather the temperature would drop down to the minimum line on the temp gage so I had assumed it was a thermostat not closing fully at idle. Changed the thermostat still the same thing. The grounds seem fine on the thermostat.either a waterpump pulley or idler pulley is making noise. Im at a dead end, no Miss fires and spark plugs look fine. I cleaned out the tb and the iacv
 

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You could adjust the idle when cold and when the car is warmed up it will help. But if anything check the distributor rotor and cap. Somethings keeping the power from staying steady so its probably igniton related and check the timing on the dizzy and make sure dead in the middle or slightly advanced
 

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ej8
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digital tach? if not. where on the tach does it idle?

and if you clean the iacv, then try the iacv relearn processes.
Also i had a small miss at idle. You could hear the motor bogging down at idle when the ac came on. drove fine other wise.

turn out the spark plugs was bad and had problems at idle. I put some new ones in and it idle a hell of alot smoother. (but also my plugs where kinda old.)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Haven't checked the distributor or cap but iacv cleaning and relearn didn't help.no digital tach when the files drop they go down to the second line on the tach (assuming it's about 100-200 rpm) if I don't drive it the normal rpms are at roughly 600. When I pump the brake the engine compensates for the vacuum by increasing rpms however after an hour drive on the highway hard braking kills the car. Changed spark plugs and fuel filter. There's a very slight misfire nothing serious enough to throw a code. I'm gunna check distributor and cap tonight. I'll take pics of tach when the it happens on my way home tonight. Although I did notice that it's been happening slightly less after the new fuel filter.
 

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ej8
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Haven't checked the distributor or cap but iacv cleaning and relearn didn't help.no digital tach when the files drop they go down to the second line on the tach (assuming it's about 100-200 rpm) if I don't drive it the normal rpms are at roughly 600. When I pump the brake the engine compensates for the vacuum by increasing rpms however after an hour drive on the highway hard braking kills the car. Changed spark plugs and fuel filter. There's a very slight misfire nothing serious enough to throw a code. I'm gunna check distributor and cap tonight. I'll take pics of tach when the it happens on my way home tonight. Although I did notice that it's been happening slightly less after the new fuel filter.
the first line is 500 rpms. below that is the black needle peg stopper and 0 rpm.

I have a digital tach and at 400rpms the car will cut off. it will not run below that.
So please post a pic as you might be over thinking it and it might be idling at the correct rpm but not smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cel on for p1407 changed vent valve never went away.. Canister leak I believe. I attached a pic of the idles after the car has warmed up. This to me is actually somewhat okay. It was after a 10 min drive and 20 min idle before and after the drive. On my tach the very second line is what it falls down to. I didn't get a chance to check the cap tonight, but will try to tomorrow. May have to wait till the weekend. I appreciate everyone's input guys thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am thinking if there is an evap canister leak and the gas tank is losing pressure and it's affecting the fuel delivery.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So the second line is 500 rpms? If so my idle falls just a hair above the second line on the tach
 

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Hmm okay then I'll just ignore it for now and do the cap and wires when I have time. I changed the plugs about 2 months ago at the time every cylinder and plug was normal (the ones that came out did not have oil or coolant residue at all.) I do have to adjust valves and do timing belt soon (it's now at 146k) I checked the belt when I got it looked pretty good no cracks or anything. The cars suspension components are pretty bad tho rears are blown front are okay for now but rusty. Going to be looking into a decent coilover set and have to address control arms and all bushings (the previous owner must've never got rust proofing). I'm pretty New to the Honda scene. Never really had a want to modify my previous cars. I have been working in a shop for a little over a year and have the tools and the ability to do the work myself but I am limited because it's my daily and I don't have full knowledge of what a proper civic that is daily should pretty much be. Also the one thing that makes me scratch my head is the emissions in Ontario. I have no knowledge as to what I can swap legally. I want around 200-300hp max but I don't know where to start. I'd love input. Thanks guys
 
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