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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so I recently just did a head swap on my d16y7. I threw a y8 head from a 00' civic onto my 98' civic hatch. I did the head swap everything went smoothly with the head gasket replacement and then torquing everything down to spec. I started with 14 ft-lbs then 36, and 49 twice just as the service manual says. I did not even get to start the car yet. As soon as I filled it up with fluids I went inside to grab a drink came back out and noticed that the coolant was all over the ground. I know I am gonna get a whole lot of shit for not doing it correctly and trying to get by with a half-ass job, so please spare me the embarrassment. I just need help. I'd not clean the old intake manifold gasket off and I did not buy a new one. I know that the y7 Intake Manifold has a coolant hole that runs to the thermo housing. With that being said I bolted the intake manifold directly up to the head with no gasket... Could this be the cause of why coolant was rushing straight out of that area? or is it more likely that the head was warped when I bought it and it needs to be resurfaced? I even tried to tighten the IM bolts down as tight as possible and it didn't slow the leak. I couldn't pinpoint the leak but I could see a stream of coolant after filling it up coming from either the corner of where the head meets the deck or that coolant hole that is on the IM. My only indication that it may be warped is I wasn't sure if coolant would run through the thermo housing and to the IM without starting the car and just filling it up. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay, so I recently just did a head swap on my d16y7. I threw a y8 head from a 00' civic onto my 98' civic hatch. I did the head swap everything went smoothly with the head gasket replacement and then torquing everything down to spec. I started with 14 ft-lbs then 36, and 49 twice just as the service manual says. I did not even get to start the car yet. As soon as I filled it up with fluids I went inside to grab a drink came back out and noticed that the coolant was all over the ground. I know I am gonna get a whole lot of shit for not doing it correctly and trying to get by with a half-ass job, so please spare me the embarrassment. I just need help. I'd not clean the old intake manifold gasket off and I did not buy a new one. I know that the y7 Intake Manifold has a coolant hole that runs to the thermo housing. With that being said I bolted the intake manifold directly up to the head with no gasket... Could this be the cause of why coolant was rushing straight out of that area? or is it more likely that the head was warped when I bought it and it needs to be resurfaced? I even tried to tighten the IM bolts down as tight as possible and it didn't slow the leak. I couldn't pinpoint the leak but I could see a stream of coolant after filling it up coming from either the corner of where the head meets the deck or that coolant hole that is on the IM. My only indication that it may be warped is I wasn't sure if coolant would run through the thermo housing and to the IM without starting the car and just filling it up. Any help is appreciated.
UPDATE: I'm just a dumb fuck who prolly shouldn't be taking my car apart. Lolol. Its the lack of a intake manifold gasket.
 

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Always clean surfaces and replace gaskets/seals around critical sealing points, unless of course you want leaks :)

Make sure coolant didn't pour into cylinder #4 intake runner. If you haven't fired it up yet, pull plugs and crank engine over to purge any coolant that might have made its way to the cylinders due to lack of gasket. You don't want to chance a cranking hydrolock and bend a rod :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Always clean surfaces and replace gaskets/seals around critical sealing points, unless of course you want leaks :)

Make sure coolant didn't pour into cylinder #4 intake runner. If you haven't fired it up yet, pull plugs and crank engine over to purge any coolant that might have made its way to the cylinders due to lack of gasket. You don't want to chance a cranking hydrolock and bend a rod :)
Yeah, Im no mechanic. A YouTube mechanic at most. I love cars though so I'm trying to learn. Ahaha. I actually removed the head again to check when i discovered that coolant port on the IM.I haven't fired it yet. I knew better. Haha. There was def coolant in cylinder 4 and i wiped most of what i could out with a no lint rag. But luckily the motor was at TDC so I don't think any got past the piston. Should I still rotate the crank a few times back to TDC just to be safe? Also when buying gaskets should I buy y7 or y8 gaskets specifically for the IM I already bought a y8 head gasket cause I was told they are best for the mini me.
 

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Usually when you buy a good set, like the fel pro kits, they just come with every 96-00 variant of IM gasket lol. Its cheaper for a company like felpro to just put them all in one box, and make the end user pick the one that fits the application the best.

The Y8 gasket will have larger runner ports out of all the ones that come in the box. Just match up the one that seals all flat machined flange areas the best. The Y8 one should work though.

As long as a large amount of coolant isn't in the cylinder, you're ok.
 

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Its okay to be a green thumb.

Just set yourself apart from everyone else by taking the time to consider all steps one at a time.

Im still trying to learn that method lol, and Ive been working on cars for near 20 years at this point

My advice, anytime you have to question yourself, just step back and look at what you are doing, and re-think it if the answer doesnt come to you right away.


The way I see it, a human designed it, a human can take care of it.

EDIT I highly recommend doing another step of head torqueing, and go to 60 lbs/ft. 49 is too little, unless you were doing that with the threads oiled up. Dry, 60-70 lbs/ft is better.

Honda wants oiled threads, hence the low numbers. But most people forget that.

I can look at my alldata specs if you want. Just post back
 
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Why don’t you switch to the Y8 intake manifold?
Not everyone does it because not everyone wants to deal with the conversion effort, or dont want to take the hit on gas mileage
 

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I got noticably worse gas mileage when I had my 97 automatic. converter manifold and Y7 intake manifold always ruled the gas pump intervals versus the Y8 manifold, either with converter manifold or cheap ebay header.


Heck, I put 10k miles on the stock sestup before swapping to the Y8 manifold, and never saw the same or better mileage again.

It simply had more power up top.

I did notice on pure interstate drives, like to junkyards or such, that gas mileage may have slightly gone up, or similar at least.

I think the best bang for buck with Y8 manifold comes with manual transmissions.

Im pretty sure my Y7 auto was dragging ass all the time in low rpms, so that is why I got hit harder than some.
 

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If you want optimum fuel economy than why switch the head to a Y8! The Y7 was built for better economy, I know this but just putting the Y8 head and not the IM as well for the HP gains is a mystery to me.
 

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The Y8's low cam profile would actually enable quite a noticeable jump in stop and go traffic economy while a Y8 ecu and injectors are sourced to complete the conversion. It has lower lift and duration than the stock Y7 cam, so at lower and low-mid rpms, it would actually create more usable torque, with one hell of a downward spiral past 3500 rpms or so.


But many people simply want to get a head start on modification. Nothing wrong with getting some parts tossed on, even if its not immediately optimal. I like the idea, as it helps verify the Y8 head runs well, creates a good compression seal, lets you know if valve lash is correctly set, etc...

Steps and steps!
 
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