Honda D Series Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

0 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looooooooooong time reader (~15yrs+), first time to post.

So I thought I’d share my setup...

- ‘99 EK 4DR LX 5spd w/294,000 miles
- STOCK Y7 engine
- STOCK Y8 intake manifold
- STOCK E5F transmission
- ACT HD pressure plate w/full-face disc
- Greddy SOHC non-intercooled turbo kit
- Greddy Type-S BOV
- Turbo XS manual boost controller
- NGK R5671A-9 spark plugs (.020” gap)
- NGK plug wires
- AEM cam gear (ADVANCED 6 marks)
- AEM wideband O2 sensor
- Waldro 255 GSS342 fuel pump
- STOCK fuel pressure regulator
- Catalytic converter delete
- 2.5” mandrel bent cat-back exhaust
- eBay double bend short shifter
- Urethane shifter bushings
- Urethane rear mount inserts
- 16” Rota Circuit 8’s with 215/45-16 rubber
- STOCK suspension

I bought the turbo kit new waaaay back in the early, early two thousands for my wife’s ‘93 EG 4DR automatic. Ran great on Neptune. Made 210whp thru the slop o’matic transmission. Turbo oil seals went out after a few years. At the time I had two toddlers and didn’t have the extra cash to have the turbo rebuilt so I put a header on the car and put the turbo kit on the shelf.

Fast forward about 13 yrs to present time...

Bought the above mentioned ‘99 EK 4DR LX from a family member because I pretty much knew the entire history of the car. The car has the original gauge cluster, engine and trans. Neither the engine or trans have been rebuilt. Engine lives on Rotella or Delo 15W-40 (whichever’s on sale at WalFart), trans gets Mobil1 75W-90.

The car was naturally aspirated without the wideband O2 when I did the Y8 intake manifold swap. I used the Y8 injectors that came with the manifold and, although it seemed to run fine, I was getting “system too rich” check engine lights. I installed the Y7 injectors and the check engine lights went away. I did a little research and found out that the Y7 injectors are tiny at 180cc. The Y8 injectors are 240cc which is approximately 30% larger than the Y7 injectors. This will be important later.

The Y8 manifold made a huge difference naturally aspirated. The low-mid range felt strong and the top end rpms sounded sweet. I drove the car like this for a few months before installing the turbo kit.

I had the Greddy TD04H-15G turbo rebuilt by M&D Distributors (Navigation location) here in Houston. In case you didn’t know...the turbo used in this Greddy kit was actually manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries (MHI) and was used primarily by Nissan for the twin turbo 300ZX’s. I think Volvo also used it in a lot of their cars, too.

Anyways, I installed the turbo kit and I’m still utilizing the stock OBD2B P2E 5spd ECU but with the little Greddy blue box piggybacked onto it. The blue box came with the turbo kit and is non programmable. All it does is piggyback the four injector wires, the rpm signal, power, ground, and it intercepts the MAP sensor wire. primary O2 sensor is in the Greddy downpipe right below the turbo. The secondary O2 sensor is zip tied to the side of the lower radiator hose. The wideband O2 is also in the downpipe but it’s located further back under the car under the driver’s side cv axle.

The car ran fine at 5-6 psi on 93 octane and 16degrees of timing so long as I didn’t heat soak it with back to back feeder road pulls. It would detonate pretty bad once it was heat soaked. Octane booster and 13 degrees of timing did help but I was getting tired of having to spend money on high octane gasoline PLUS ten to fifteen dollars a bottle for reputable octane booster. Not to mention the 13 degrees of timing made the car sluggish around town. Just didn’t make since to have to do all that for only 6 psi of boost. Also, the wideband was telling me that the blue box was doing a decent job at keeping the air/fuel ratios in check but was starting to lean out above 6krpm.

I figured that installing the larger 240cc Y8 injectors would do the trick...WRONG. It was so rich that it wouldn’t even rev past 3krpm and was belching out black smoke. The blue box and Y8 injectors along with the factory ecu I njector duty cycles set for the smaller Y7 injectors was just too much fuel. The wideband was pegged at 10:1. A one thousand dollar Hondata S300 system tuned is absolutely out of the question so what are my options??

This got the gears in my head turning. How can I utilize these 30% larger Y8 injectors?? How can I get higher octane without wasting money on 93 pump gas mixed with high dollar octane booster?? How can I get my ignition timing back?? Then it hit me like a ton of bricks...E85!!

E85 takes ~30% more fuel to get the desired air/fuel ratios. Plus it’s cheaper than 93 pump. Plus it’s around 105 octane. Plus the atomized ethanol works as an internal intercooler by cooling the incoming air; important for me as I’m non intercooled. Plus you can lean on E85 with more ignition timing. I immediately drained the 93 out of the tank and put it in the wife’s CRV. Took the CRV up to Sunoco and got 5gal of E85 in my gas can. Put the E85 into the Civic and she fired right up. Gave her a few revs and she revved clean. No sputtering at 3krpm and the wideband was giving a 14.5:1-15.1:1 reading at idle; PERFECT! Set the ignition timing back to 16 degrees. Now it’s time for a test drive.

Car immediately felt stronger! Air fuels still slightly rich up top so I said to myself “how can I lean out the top end?” Oh yeah, TURN THE BOOST UP! So that’s exactly what I did. I turned it up to 10psi. I heard an ever so slight ping so I pulled 1 degree of timing out. It’s now at 15 degrees with zero detonation and feels night and day from where I started. It only pings if I go above 11psi but that doesn’t really bother me because 10psi feels STRONG. I haven’t gotten a check engine light since I was playing around with the injectors when it was naturally aspirated. Passed TX state inspection with flying colors.

BTW...I use Lucas Safeguard Ethanol Fuel Conditioner. I’ve used this additive since day one on E85 and have had zero ethanol related issues thus far...knock on wood lol. I’ve been on ethanol for about 6mos. I daily drive the car.

I don’t have dyno money so if anybody with a boosted Y7 on ten pounds and E85 has dynoed their car lmk what your numbers are. I’ll post pics of the setup as soon as I get back to the house.

Sorry for the long post but I figured somebody might get something out of it. TTYL.

6,902 Posts
Let me get this straight.

You want to get your boosted car running properly, but refuse to buy a tuning solution?

Dude. OBD1 conversion, chipped ecu. Less than $200 buying an ecu, chipping kit, and rom burner. Crome is free.

Its old school. Its a pain. But it is FAR cheaper than blowing the engine over foolishness.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts