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I will be replacing my D16Y7 in my 2000 Honda Civic LX with another D16Y7 I was wondering if anyone has a step by step breakdown of how to do this or any insight would be appreciated. This will be my first Honda motor pull! I also should mention its an automatic....for now!
 

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Believe I actually have a Hayes and didn't think one time about it thanks for the reminder lol.... Took 15 mins today and put in some projector headlights as well will upload pics when I take them lol!
 

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EG8
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Get a chilton or haynes manual. They are car bibles. They have a step by step for everything
They may be car "bibles" But there is a REAL Honda so-called "bible"... That is the HELMS manual. You might be able to find it online somewhere for download or just buy the book itself (If your paying for the online copy, you're getting ripped off..)

Believe I actually have a Hayes and didn't think one time about it thanks for the reminder lol.... Took 15 mins today and put in some projector headlights as well will upload pics when I take them lol!
It will be well worth the work.

For future reference try to post in the correct section. This is the DIY as in where you post a guide.. The whole forum is "DIY", think about it.

Honestly also use the awesome search feature at the top left of the page, because if you don't you will kill extremely vital internet trees...


You don't want to kill internet trees do you?
 

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Best advice I can give you is look up the torque specs and get a paint marker. other than that just start pulling it out, you will remember what goes where i promise....I can pull one and remember which bolts go where, if you can't, place everything seperate in something and label it. most important that, use torque specs and please after you know you've torqued it right take your paint marker and make a mark on what you just did...just start taking it out and it'll work out for you, good luck man and i hope it starts well. nothin to it man. take your time, don't rush it. take breaks, look back over your work and those paint marks. and you may mess up some bolts and all that but it'll all work out. and if you use like ex torque specs for a y7 swap, it will work just as well...there are some small differences but as long as you aren't doing internals it wont matter..like an ex fuel rail might call for 17 lbs and y7 might call for 16, not real numbers, but i hope you get what i'm saying, really wont matter...i wouldn't even bother with a manual, you'll do fine once you start taking it out and you'll get the hang of it, but do A MARKER CHECK on EVERYthing You do! Take breaks and look up anything as you go if needed.
 

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yeah take your time, there is a DIY motor pull thats pretty decent on here let me see if i can find it
 

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I've done a few motor swaps from D to B to K series. Best advice I ever got: get a box full of zip lock bags, a few sharpies and a roll of masking tape.

This way, you don't end up with bonus parts! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the input guys I found a reputable guy in town and he is selling me a 0 mile fresh rebuild D16Y7 for 600 cash and I will update my profile pic when I get a better one with my new headlights in.... and I will also update frequently when I start the swap. I'm sure I am in the right place if I have questions once I start!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One more question is it going to be more beneficial to pull the motor and transmission or just motor thanks again guys
 

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89 crx
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I've done a few motor swaps from D to B to K series. Best advice I ever got: get a box full of zip lock bags, a few sharpies and a roll of masking tape.

This way, you don't end up with bonus parts! :)
tryed a few different methods, this is the way that works best. cant recommend you throw all bolts in a bucket, some bolts look the same size / thread pitch but, are not as strong and that could cost you in the future if it fails. putting the bolts back where you found them is not the worst idea and works good if your doing something simple / less parts involved. torque anything that has a spec listed make sure you fallow the torque pattern if listed. hope this helps.
 

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89 crx
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One more question is it going to be more beneficial to pull the motor and transmission or just motor thanks again guys
if there's nothing wrong with the transmission there is no reason to take it out if you gotta new motor/transmission then taking them out at the same time is gonna save you time. honda motor and transmission could weight 300-500 lbs so be careful. if its just the motor then remove just the motor. getting the crank pulley off is necessary for removing just the engine (1 big bolt). if you got a automatic trans don't forget to take the torque converter bolts out before removing the crank pulley so you can spin the Rotating Assemblies easily.
 

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Thanks for all the input guys I found a reputable guy in town and he is selling me a 0 mile fresh rebuild D16Y7 for 600 cash and I will update my profile pic when I get a better one with my new headlights in.... and I will also update frequently when I start the swap. I'm sure I am in the right place if I have questions once I start!
just something to consider, I was in the same boat you were with a 98 civic dx d16y7. I considered using a local rebuild. but for just a small amount more like 700 i decided to get a motor from hmotorsonline.com they are very helpful if you call them and their motors have about 30,000 miles on them and are tested. at the end of the day i decided a motor built by the low mileage honda factory is safer than a rebuild, good luck either way.

I've done a few motor swaps from D to B to K series. Best advice I ever got: get a box full of zip lock bags, a few sharpies and a roll of masking tape.

This way, you don't end up with bonus parts! :)
^^^ and what he said. nothing worse than figuring out bolts that are similar looking or that feeling at the end when you have some left over..

and i.m.o no way to do it but to pull the motor and tranny at same time.

how was the 0 mile rebuild rebuilt? are the cylinder walls nice and smooth now? what all was rebuilt?

Most importantly, I noticed no one mentioned this-If you know someone that has done some engine swaps have them help you, during my first swap having an experienced person helped more than anything
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So the new motor only had about 45K on it not sure what happened to it but it has everything done down to compression testing and I get the build sheet when I pick it up tomorrow. I also have a friend that built a "deltegra" (del sol with b18b). He said if I need anything to hit him up and he would give me a hand. I was also given a tip to start with the driver side first as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am also trying to swap intake manifolds he is leaving one on there that comes out toward the passenger side instead of the top like the one I have on my motor now. Am I going to run into any snags there?
 

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Check the connectors on the intake manifolds. If he used the right one the plugs should be the same. If not you'll have to do a small amount of wiring and I've read tweak the throttle cable to get everything to work.

It should be a Y8 automatic manifold to work correctly
 

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So just pulled the motor no problems! Just gotta switch all my brackets and accessories to the new motor and drop it back in. Getting the Y8 Intake and Y8 DC Sport Header tomorrow after removing my heat shield noticed a huge crack down my cast exhaust manifold and instead of trying to weld it which I could do I am gonna put the Y8 header on so he goes for tomorrow!
 

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lol those exhaust manis crack all the time, lol one time for no reason i spit on mine and it cracked.
Have you ran into any problems yet? stripped any bolts? broken the heads off any bolts? are your hands a lil bloody? if you said no to any of this then keep up the good work. got any pics? are you going to replace the intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, and will you need to replace the throttle body gasket or it is already attached right? Pics?/Video? Hope you're first start goes well.
 

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Ok so motor is in no real hiccups.. I did replace the intake manifold gasket, my exhaust mani gasket was metal so I just reused it, the throttle body gasket was good just basically cleaned it very well. I bought the used automatic Y8 intake mani and a DC Sport Header and downpipe for 100 even. The motor went in easy all the hookups went back to where they should have the only other things I had to buy were a lower driver side motor mount and some extra rubber hose! We put it in, added water, then added the oil. Checked for leaks before starting and there were none. So we started the motor and low and behold it actually started and is currently running. I drove around the block a couple of times and now what I think I have is vacuum idle but not sure! When I start the motor it idles up to about 2000 rpm then comes down a hair before it starts idling up and down any insight on this could really use some. The only things not hooked up now are the two O2 sensors and I know that's why my check engine light is on... but the idle issue has me thrown!
 
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