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Okay so to get started I've got a D16Y7 block, I rebuilt it with forged and billet internals, I picked up a D16Z6 head to run vtec out of the engine as well. No it is not running yet. I want to do a few things before it's running. Lots of custom work. Before answering, know that I am entirely open to custom work. If it can work I'll make it work.
Question 1.) Can I use the Z6 cam gear with my Y7 timing? The only thing changed in the timing is the Z6 cam.
Question 2.) I would like to use a custom gearbox, if a b series trans would bolt right up I'll go with that, however I'm sure that's not the case. So I'd like to frankenstein a d series transmission together, preferably one with 3 short ratio gears and 2 long ratio gears. I heard the EX series have short gears, where as the DX series have longer ratio gears. What would I have to do in order to throw these two different series transmissions together? (More specifically which gears from which series do I need?)
Question 3.) I have also picked up a B18C wiring harness, I know this is d series website however the engine is a d series still. I was told I can use this harness to make my mini me swap run correctly without a tune, for the mean time. How true is this statement?
Question 4.) I heard that Z6 timing components are generally faster then the Y7/Y8, can and should I use full Z6 timing for this build? (Pulley, tensioner, cam, belt, etc)
Question 5.) I have a Y7 dizzy, I have seen that you can and can't use the Y7 dizzy for the Z6 head because of the extra ear loop on the Y7 dizzy, can I shim this off and get away with using it? Would using a Z6 dizzy be better for performance?
Question 6.) This is N/A at the moment, I am looking into a 75mm or 100mm borgwarner turbo system. Since I'll be doing boost by gear, if I end up with a frankenstein gearbox would I use numbers from both sets of transmissions? Example 1st gear in said ex trans, the boost is set to 5 PSI, where as 1st gear in a dx would be set to 6 PSI. If I had 1st from an ex and 2nd from a dx, would I use ex psi numbers all across the different gears or use numbers from both PSI charts to fill in for the correct gear that I end up with?
Conclusion.) This is a street build. I am trying to go balls to the wall with this build, even though it is just a d series. Anything custom to improve performance that can be done I would like to do. I would like to fully max out the performance of the engine, while maintaining a little reliability. Ill eventually swap to a k series so I just need this engine to last about a year.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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why not use a y8 and be done with it?
 

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Your transmission questions.
Research gear ratios online. You will find several common pieces. Biggest different will always be a final drive. an untouched DX/LX trans from any of the 92-00 cars will work fine for boost.

And nearly ALL of the used trans on the marketplace need to be torn apart and rebuilt if you are going to be running big power. tolerances out fo whack and slop, are deadly when you have enough power to simply shear things apart, especially if a STOCK engine can do it with intentional effort.

Your questions on distributor and cylinder head information is out there. Like Slo said, why not a Y8 setup? you get mroe compression, and you dont need to mess with a single flipping thing.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
BorgWarner AirWerks S500SX 91mm 900-1575 HP Turbocharger | JEGS
BorgWarner S500SX Turbocharger 90.67mm/3.57" Compressor Inducer Dia.


S500SX Turbocharger
  • 90.67mm/3.57'' Compressor Inducer Dia.
  • 4.73'' Compressor Wheel O.D.
  • 99.08mm/3.90'' Turbine Exducer Dia.
  • 109.73mm/4.32'' Turbine Wheel O.D.
  • 0.85 Turbine A/R
  • T6 Open Flow Turbine Inlet
  • Straight Compressor Outlet




fuck that is going to be sweet!
I like the sound of this, what kind of intercooling should I go with? The vehicle is a 97 DX hatchback, it's been gutted
 

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Discussion Starter #6
why not use a y8 and be done with it?
Trust me I thought of it, however the only difference between a Y8 and Y7 is the vtec oil hole in the back of the block for the vtec solenoid, either one drill the hole in which is the most logical solution or find another way to get oil onto the solenoid. The Y7 even has bracket spots for the knock sensor, you just need to buy the bracket
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your transmission questions.
Research gear ratios online. You will find several common pieces. Biggest different will always be a final drive. an untouched DX/LX trans from any of the 92-00 cars will work fine for boost.

And nearly ALL of the used trans on the marketplace need to be torn apart and rebuilt if you are going to be running big power. tolerances out fo whack and slop, are deadly when you have enough power to simply shear things apart, especially if a STOCK engine can do it with intentional effort.

Your questions on distributor and cylinder head information is out there. Like Slo said, why not a Y8 setup? you get mroe compression, and you dont need to mess with a single flipping thing.
I would have gone the route of a Y8 block, however I'm using what my vehicle came with. Since the two blocks are so similar in comparison, I don't really see the need to use a Y8. Compression for a Y7 is 9:4:1, where as a Y8's compression is 9:6:1. The only difference these blocks have is the oil hole for the vtec solenoid in the back of the block. The transmission is a whole other story, I did a bit of research already and came across an old thread, I didn't want to bump a 16 year old thread so I made a new one asking about it. I was hoping someone that's older and more experienced then me has seen something similar to what I've explained. And yes I will be rebuilding the transmission, that is why I would like to know which gears to get and bell housing so I can buy billet gears and housing. I suppose compiling all the ratios into a table would help for a start
 

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d16y8 block was not intended. D16y8 cylinder head is what was proposed. the Y8 head bolts to the Y7 block. You simply remove the oil plug in the Y7 block with a screw and visegrips.

EDIT Y7 block and pistons make fore 9.96:1 compression with Y8 head
 

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As far as a gear ratio table and options. Plenty of that information is floating around for OEM gears.

speedfactory and aquafina would be great sources for information on custom parts.

chris/aquafina is actively rebuilding transmissions.

bone/mistabone/Transzex would be the fellow to talk to about absolute specifics.
 

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I like the sound of this, what kind of intercooling should I go with? The vehicle is a 97 DX hatchback, it's been gutted
now I'm really confused ..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
d16y8 block was not intended. D16y8 cylinder head is what was proposed. the Y8 head bolts to the Y7 block. You simply remove the oil plug in the Y7 block with a screw and visegrips.

EDIT Y7 block and pistons make fore 9.96:1 compression with Y8 head
Ahhh I see what you mean, the reasoning for this was because I saw somewhere online that the Z6 head is more capable then a Y8 head, due to more oil passages and because the Z6 timing is half a tooth less then the Y7/Y8 timing components, which I'd assume means more acceleration
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As far as a gear ratio table and options. Plenty of that information is floating around for OEM gears.

speedfactory and aquafina would be great sources for information on custom parts.

chris/aquafina is actively rebuilding transmissions.

bone/mistabone/Transzex would be the fellow to talk to about absolute specifics.
I have a question specifically for you, I apologise if I've confused anybody here I'm actually fairly new to the game, this is my first modified engine after all. I pondered getting an adjustable cam gear and a stage 2 cam shaft, would this fix the issue I was about to run into with timing? I heard you can't use Z6 cam gear with the Y7/Y8 timing belt and pulleys, because it tards up the timing or something? I was wondering if an adjustable cam gear would fix that entirely, since idk how it really works quite yet
 

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heard or read where?

the z6 cam can be used in a y8 head, as long as you match cam gear to the camshaft. Yes there is a 4.75* difference, a difference made up with using the correct cam gear.

The z6 head versus the Y8 head, I doubt there is any real difference in capability. The type of people worried about that are going balls to the wall porting and polishing and tweaking for maximum power, something less than 1% of ANY builder ever does.

The Y8 head has a smaller combustion chamber, thus more compression, and thus, more power for the average setup.
 
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it's ok ,you can say retard here.
I have a question specifically for you, I apologise if I've confused anybody here I'm actually fairly new to the game, this is my first modified engine after all. I pondered getting an adjustable cam gear and a stage 2 cam shaft, would this fix the issue I was about to run into with timing? I heard you can't use Z6 cam gear with the Y7/Y8 timing belt and pulleys, because it tards up the timing or something? I was wondering if an adjustable cam gear would fix that entirely, since idk how it really works quite yet
 

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heard or read where?

the z6 cam can be used in a y8 head, as long as you match cam gear to the camshaft. Yes there is a 4.75* difference, a difference made up with using the correct cam gear.

The z6 head versus the Y8 head, I doubt there is any real difference in capability. The type of people worried about that are going balls to the wall porting and polishing and tweaking for maximum power, something less than 1% of ANY builder ever does.

The Y8 head has a smaller combustion chamber, thus more compression, and thus, more power for the average setup.
Okay so would I be able to use the AEM TruTime adjustable cam gear for this setup?? I didn't actually know the Y8 had smaller combustion chambers, kind of interesting. I ran into a thing called compound turbos. Do you think I could compound turbocharge with a 90mm and a 25mm? Would the engine handle all of that?
 

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I would say, for being very green to these cars, lets keep things simple.

Lets focus on getting everything working great, working smoohtly, and keeping it reliable.

Then you can go forward in stages, starting with a tuning solution, then a small turbo to get an idea of the car's behaviour, operation of a turbo car (such as NOT turning it off immediately after parking, checking for bosot leaks, etc..)

Baby steps!
 

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I would say, for being very green to these cars, lets keep things simple.

Lets focus on getting everything working great, working smoohtly, and keeping it reliable.

Then you can go forward in stages, starting with a tuning solution, then a small turbo to get an idea of the car's behaviour, operation of a turbo car (such as NOT turning it off immediately after parking, checking for bosot leaks, etc..)

Baby steps!
I agree yet at the same time I'm not looking to spend extra money, everyone in my family has a turbo car except my mom, they'll tell me the do's and do nots. Ill be getting the turbo later down the road, it'll run N/A for about 2-3 months
 

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I agree yet at the same time I'm not looking to spend extra money, everyone in my family has a turbo car except my mom, they'll tell me the do's and do nots. Ill be getting the turbo later down the road, it'll run N/A for about 2-3 months
curious what turbo cars are in the family?
 

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curious what turbo cars are in the family?
2012 Evo x Final edition, has been modified with aftermarket turbo and intercooling system. 2004 RSX Type S, fully built K24 turbo making around 600, 1997 240sx 2jz swap stock engine, and a Honda Accord w a H22, can't remember the exact specs of that one but it's a sleeved block awaiting a turbo
 
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