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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for help on which pistons to get.. don't want vitaras. Too low compression.. thinking wiseco pistons but dont wanna spend that much.. any alternatives that's pretty cheap and will throw me in the 8 or 9:1 static compression range? Maybe pm6s? Tryna build a setup that doesn't depend on boost to move and will get off the line in low rpms.. will probably run e85 if effective compression ratio is above 12:1 trying to make the 250 - 300 hp range

Here's my build plans:
D16a6 block:
-stock crank
-acl or king main and rod bearings
-eagle rods
-pistons? Idk yet
-milled .005"
-bored .25 mm

D16y8 head:
-supertech valves
-supertech valve springs, retainers, guides
-BC stage 2 cam forced induction
-3 layer y8 head gasket
-y8 intake manifold

EBay turbo.. 25 trim.. maybe 4 psi boost? Or more on e85. Idk yet. Please help. Thanks

All in an EF hatch!!
 

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With laying all that coin out, why cheap out on the pistons.

Over all its just a few hundred more on the build., So you may as well get the Wisecos.

Drop the Supertech valves and springs, get the matching BC spring kit.

Also get the +1mm valves, they will work out better when you go to the bronze guides and the valve job is done.

While your at it, Get the BC rods, they are about the same price as the eagle, but they will have a better balance right out the box.

King race rod bearings, and get the regular King bearings for the mains, Great bearing combo to run in a mostly street driven car.

The specs for the turbo look to me to be more of a T3/T4 hybrid turbo... Ebay? If so make sure you get a restrictor for the oil feed.

I know you hope to just have the block milled .005, but it is up to the block on how much is milled.

You need to decide, now what fuel you will burn, that way you can settle on a piston selection and what injectors you will need, with E85 you will need about double the size injector you will need for pump gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the feedback.. but the cylinder walls look fine so .005 sounds more than enough.. I measured bore diameter.. no taper. No oval. no fingernail scratches..
Also I know about e85 what it does.. and what it needs.. but do I need wiseco pistons to make my power goals? And would I need e85 to make my power goals and still be safe? If wisecos and e85 is going over board for 300hp then
I wouldn't mind saving some cash
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And yeah I was gonna get a 3 angle valve job. But if I get the +1 mm valves wouldn't that defeat the purpose of getting a valve job? The valve wouldn't seat fully and airflow would still have an abrupt change which is the whole purpose of a valve job.. To minimize changes in airflow from the head to the chamber
 

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12:1 compression and boost. e85 will ne needed to reach your goals.

im not familiar at all with that turbo. but 300whp should not be an issue at that compression and e85 with a t2860rs sized turbo. doable on say a t28 sized, but that would be pushing it.

not sure if i read it but arp head studs no doubt.

stratton.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What about 12:1 compression including boost? Effective compression ratio.. I was thinking more like 9:1 without boost and 12:1 with boost.. still e85 or would 93 be fine with no detonation problems? And yeah I didn't put arp head studs in there but that's an automatic.. Thanks for info.. and does any one know a good small turbo kit off ebay that would be good for this build? Not trying to push too much boost
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm thinking a bigger turbine A/R will fit this build better since low end torque should already be there.. or should I go with a smaller A/R for a faster spool? Since I won't be pushing much psi anyway? Any thoughts?
 

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Ok, with your responses I now have a good understanding of how little to none you know about engine construction and engine machining.

In your first post you say "bore .25mm" Thats .010

It is more common to find .5mm/.020 oversized pistons.

Next You mention having the block milled .005, Hence the reason I said "I know you hope to just have the block milled .005, but it is up to the block on how much is milled."

So I was not in any way speaking of block cylinder taper, but block deck distortion.

Next is your lack of understanding of what a valve job is and what it is for.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/258570-what-happens-head-machine-shop.html
once you read that we can talk again.
But in short a valve job is to seal the valve to the valve seat.

Now the reason for the +1mm valves is so when the bronze guides are installed and the valve job done, you do not end up up with sunk valves.

Now if the shop you have do the machine work knows the trick to installing big valves, you will get a bump in airflow through the head.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/258650-head-build-modified-valve-job-installing-over-sized-valves.html

Next lets cover your lack of understanding of what CR is.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/258298-how-figure-compression-ratio.html

CR is a given formula that you have to figure.
It is a set number once the engine is assembled

So you can not build a 9:1 and have it change to 12:1 when in boost.

If you are trying to figure some equation that takes in your boost level, that will only work at a given RPM with a given air flow from the turbo (CFM, lb/min) along with a given flow thu the valve at a given valve lift.

To figure that out will take some one much smarter than me, and most assuredly you.

We are talking math on an Einstein level here.

Now go spend a few hours reading.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/97899-post-your-diys-quick-referrence.html
scroll to post #12
Click each link and read.
 

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Thanks for the feedback.. but the cylinder walls look fine so .005 sounds more than enough.. I measured bore diameter.. no taper. No oval. no fingernail scratches..
Also I know about e85 what it does.. and what it needs.. but do I need wiseco pistons to make my power goals? And would I need e85 to make my power goals and still be safe? If wisecos and e85 is going over board for 300hp then
I wouldn't mind saving some cash
taper can be as little as 0.02 and have a noticable effect on both performance and durability. Especially of the rings.


Bogus is no joke, he knows his stuff. It might sound rude the way he psoted, but I assure you he is intending to help, not harm
 

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If you want a responsive engine, go 10:1-11.5:1 static cp ratio. There are no cast pistons that will hold up to 300hp on boost with eagle rods that will get you about 8:1 static cp ratio. The car will be a dog out of boost. If you want reliable and cheap, look up p2p0. The rod/piston combo with a y8 head will get you around 8.7:1 static cp ratio. Then if you mill .02-.04 off the head/block, you will get into the 9:1 ratio and be similar to stock compression ratio.
 

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PG6 pistons have proven themselves. THey have a stupid thick crown. However, the ringlands are sensitive to extreme detonation (rushi d15b2 all motor build, google it)


ON some sturdy aftermarket rods, they would be a great feature in any motor under 300whp and over 10:1 compression
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oookkaayy bogus.. Sorry I ain't as smart as you.. try a punk me out on my own shit?? Haha first of all I know what the fuck you were talking about.. the flatness of the block surface.. I measured that too with a straight edge and feeler gauge. Second.. I know what a valve job is.. they shave the outsides of the valve for sealing! That's what the fuck I said.. a 3 angle valve job. so why would I get +1 mm valves they would seat over the ports.. unless I bore the intake/exhaust ports +1mm. so are you talking the diameter or the length.. you have to be more clear.. and third, obviously I didn't take my time to calculate and convert standard to metric.. so you tryna act cool in front all your friends? You better relax brah. I no need read all your little stupid forums cuz I know more shit than you in auto and diesel. None of this little sohc shit haha.. ask me anything boy... Bumbai you learn haole. And for the compression ratio shit?? Are you serious? Haha obviously we're not gonna know exactly what the cr is buy just talking about it. But I was just asking for an estimate holy shit.. getting all nuts over there.. and there's such thing as a compression calculator.. get out of here. This is a place to learn not to talk shit about people.. grow up bogus
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oh and when you said change the compression when in boost.. you can change the effective ratio by how much psi your running.. obviously you can't change static cr after you already built it.. stop being so quick to judge and actually try to understand what people are talking about.. It's hard to talk cars over the computer..
 

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Oh and when you said change the compression when in boost.. you can change the effective ratio by how much psi your running.. obviously you can't change static cr after you already built it.. stop being so quick to judge and actually try to understand what people are talking about.. It's hard to talk cars over the computer..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And thanks atheworld.. that's the kind of response I was looking for.. I think Imma go with that p2p0 vitara combo.. Thanks for the advice.. I didn't know they sell set custom length rods for vitaras.. Would you have to notch the block to run those rods?
 

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Google it and figure it out. Don't talk shit to people trying to help you. Bogus is a grown ass man that runs a machine shop you douche so learn some fucking respect. Go back to facebook with your fuck boy attitude.
 

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I thought 200 whp was about the limits of a stock D-series. Why try for 300 with stock components? I'd go with rods and pistons and turn up the boost. Then again, I would never mess with an eBay turbo. Also, 4 PSI for 300wHP would be a HUGE turbo. Talk about 'quick off the line' haha. It just won't happen. My T3/T4 runs about ~10 PSI to hit 300wHP. If you want a quick street car, start by properly sizing the turbo. A smaller turbo is probably best. You could see boost within the first couple thousand RPM and not really have to worry about all this compression ratio crap.
 
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