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91 Honda Civic SI EF D16A6
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all, long time reader first time poster.

So i just rebuilt my d16a6 from my 91 EF hatch after oil pump went out and engine spun some connecting rod bearings.

All fresh internals: ARP Head studs, Supertech 75lb Valve springs w/ titanium retainers, Supertech dished Race valves(lapped valves myself), Supertech valve guides and valve seals, ACL race bearings, hardened eagle race connecting rods, forged wiseco 75mm pistons(low compression), ACL performance oil pump. Honed cylinders myself got excellent crosshatch marks. The only 3 parts inside engine not replaced with brand new race spec parts were the crankshaft and camshaft and oil pickup. Currently engine will be N/A for a while until i can afford my turbo setup.

All that being said, I have completed the rebuild and reconnected everything and go to start up and it just cranks and cranks. There is the occasional sound like it wants to catch but it doesnt and just keeps cranking. I have double and triple and quadruple checked the grounds wires, and all sensor plugs are connected, all are good. Spark from all 4 plugs is a strong bright blue with proper firing order. I just got done with a compression test at WOT and got cy1-95, cy2-100, cy3-105, cy4-100, which is low considering 135 is supposed to be minimum, but they are within margin of each other and i am using low compression pistons. Havent tried putting oil down cylinders yet because they are dished pistons ment for FI so wasnt sure if that would prevent oil from doing its job and getting to rings instead of sitting in the dish. Fuel pressure was 31. No CEL.

Have not used timing light as of yet because i have not had a chance to get to shop and pick one up, but I have moved distro to all possible positions by less than thousandths of an inch at a time trying to get it to start with no effect.

I am at a loss as to where to go from here please help me...
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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isn't stock fuel pressure like 50psi?
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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100ish across all 4 is good, it should fire with that. If you've got spark, try giving the throttle body a shot of flammable brake cleaner or starting fluid, see if it wants to run on an external fuel source.

If it does, then you need to figure out why you're not getting fuel.
 

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91 Honda Civic SI EF D16A6
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Im definatly getting fuel. When pulling plugs to do compression i left them touching top of plug holes and cranked and fire shot out each hole so its getting fuel. Will try starting fluid and timing when i get a chance to get to a store.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Ok, then like slo said, base line cranking fuel pressure needs to be 43.5 psi. 31 might be an issue, but knowing what you used to measure fuel pressure would help too. Cheap Chinese fuel pressure gauges can be off 10-15psi new out of the box.

If fuel isn't the issue, and injection is occurring, make sure your timed right mechanically (cam, crank, timing belt), and that you have distributor firing order correct. If your plug wires are crossed or incorrectly placed on the cap, you'll be firing at the wrong time.

Also, making sure your injectors are properly plugged into the right harness plugs. There is a correct cylinder location for them as well.
 

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you need to check mechanical belt timing. Set to TDC, inspect cam gear for alignment to the head surface and the UP marker indicating slightly rearward of straight up.
 

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91 Honda Civic SI EF D16A6
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So looks like there was multiple issues that might have all bundled together with each other to prevent vehicle starting. First checked distro, had super worn rotor, bought new one. Spark plug wire for cylinder 2 was bad. Rings were most likely not seating properly, after tow starting car rings seated and it started up but horribly timed, beyond what can be addressed via distro, so now I must pull covers and belt and reset to TDC again and hope to not mis-time it again. I am positive belt didnt skip teeth when i assembled it so am unsure how it is out of time. Any help on timing it so I dont mess it up again would be appreciated. The method I am currently aware of to put it to TDC is to line the opposing line on cam gear to deck of head, then on crank to put the solitary line to the TDC mark. Then to properly tension belt is to turn it 3 teeth counter clockwise, then tighten the tensioner bolt.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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2 full turns counter clockwise and verify timing marks realign. Then rotate counter clockwise until next valves begin to open, hold crank and torque tensioner nut. I usually spin it 2 more times and verify marks line up again before a test fire.
 

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91 Honda Civic SI EF D16A6
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Here is my current timing marks. The camshaft is on marks phone just has bad perspective. The crank looks to be 1 tooth off counter clockwise but timing seems to be off 3-6 teeth counter clockwise according to adjustable timing light set to 0 (when distro is all the way clockwise-towards back of car, if its neutral then timing is off another 3-6 teeth by my estimate)

@ Oldcivicjoe when you said to turn till next valves open, about how far of a turn would that be I am doing this by myself in my garage so I find it kinda hard to be below my engine turning crank and up top watching for valves at the same time and im not as young as i used to be, but a percentage of turn i can easily figure out while below turning crank

138016
138017
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Pull the driver tire and use an extension so you can watch the valves and the belt, you will see the front side of the belt go tight as you see the next set of valves open, #2 exhaust and #4 intake i belive, at that point in rotation torque the tensioner down. Then complete that rotation and one more, double check that all marks align.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I wish I had that extension so I could do that but I dont, and have no available funds to get one as this project has eaten every dime Ive had saved to get up and running again. I have the most basic of hand tools with 1 or 2 specialized tools Ive bought for this project specifically.

So when i line the marks up prior to putting belt on, the white mark on crank should match up with sights and opposing marks on camshaft pulley should be level with deck. Then you say to turn till valve opens and tighten tensioner, at that point will marks align in same spot or be slightly off on crank due to slack being removed from front side of belt as happened when i initially installed belt to engine. And if so should I then put crank mark slightly before sights so that when i tension it lines up with sights?
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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It takes practice to get them lined up first time, the crank gear and oil pump have markers on them as well, set those first. Personally I start with the belt half on the cam gear, then pull slightly on the belt's lower front and coax it onto the crank gear, then run it around tensioner and water pump, then I turn motor 2 times(always counter clockwise) verify correct timing, then tension the belt by turning until valves begin to open, its not far, maybe 30° or so. But half a tooth retarded on the crank may help you slide the belt on a bit easier, just be sure to double check correct alignment of marks after 2 spins.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Literally all you need to do, is get all marks lined up, then turn the crank counterclockwise so that 3-4 teeth on the cam sprocket move past their time position.

Then while you hold that crank position to keep the belt tight, loosen the timing belt tensioner so the tensioner spring pulls the tensioner pulley up against the belt, then tighten the tensioner bolt back, and torque it.

Done.

The only reason for turning it a bit past the timing mark positions it to make the long side of the belt between cam and crank tight, making the tensioner side loose, so when the tensioner side is loose, you can allow the tensioner spring to pull the pulley back up against the belt.


Then once you think you've got it, tighten the crank pulley bolt and rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise twice, and realign everything back up with their timing marks. If it all lines back up, you're good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok.. I have gotten it as close as i can. The crank mark is still slightly off but atleast its driveable.. I tried dozens of times to get it perfect but nothing i do can get it any closer than where its at now. If any of you are around lansing mi area and are willing to lend a hand to get it closer to perfect please lemme know.. Till then i will have to call it good enough for now
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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so, theres another "trick" you can do.

set crank timing, set cam timing, install belt, then take the windshield wiper arm and hook it to the spring side of the tensioner. pull up on tensioner to remove slack and tighten tensioner.

done.
 
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93 Civic HB SI
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so, theres another "trick" you can do.

set crank timing, set cam timing, install belt, then take the windshield wiper arm and hook it to the spring side of the tensioner. pull up on tensioner to remove slack and tighten tensioner.

done.
I've used a bent U hook coat hanger before to do the same :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Figures.. Stealership just tried to quote me $500 to do simple timing adjustment(something they should be able to do in less than an hour)... like what the actual f***
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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The head and block were likely resurfaced, which changes the distance between cam and crank, thus retarding the cam timing, you lose a bit of bottom end and make it up on the top, if you want to correct it you will need an adjustable cam gear to advance the cam timing.
The dealer wants to sell you all new parts, then tell you the problem cant be corrected without aftermarket parts, so they can charge you to do it again with an adjustable gear, and likely they would screw it up anyhow.
 
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