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D16a6 engine build need help

7K views 57 replies 13 participants last post by  W90crxsi 
#1 ·
I have a 1990 crx si with the original d16a6. I wont to build the original motor. The head has had a value job and has been shaved. Machine shop has stated that the block needs to be bored out at least .10000. What is the best bore to go with being I have to bore it? And what pistons and rods are recommend? Trying to have a 250+ hp daily driver. Will be boosting but I want the motor right first. Car hasn't been on the road in 15 years.
 

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#4 ·
vitaras are great for cheap durability, but suck donkey balls for actual performance.


Are you looking for a setup that feels healthy everywhere, or are you worried only to have an actual 250+ hp?

More importantly, are you looking to daily drive this?

Because if so, you should budget 2-5x more money towards brakes, tires, suspension bushings, and either coilovers or a good spring and strut combo.


All new bushings everywhere alone makes a HUGE difference on all generations of the civics and crx's
 
#6 ·
Well, I found you a Nippon-Racing version of the Vitara pistons and a set of Eagle "H-beam" rods.

Kit says 8.5:1 compression, but they dont say WHICH D series head was used.

$525

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CIVI...201329?hash=item232ac1d4b1:g:Z2EAAOSw5cNYi9X3


That is about the lowest compression that still maintains some drivability and keeps the turbo easier to spin up.


They say the kit has done 350hp+, but Im pretty sure people have gotten the Nippon versions of the pistons beyond 450 or 500 hp

The H beam eagle rods are plenty strong and easily support 400+hp
 
#18 ·
I have used vitara's in many builds with std rods and long rods ,

In the rat mobile I had the td04hl15 wastegate set on nog for 20k but I must have been making less power than a 10:1 10psi build... :eyeroll:
 
#19 ·
Those charts are misleading.

If you tune it correctly then there’s no reason for low compression. At some point, when your dynamic compression ratio gets high enough, you’ll reach the knock limit of the fuel and will either need higher octane fuel, reduced timing, or a lower dynamic compression ratio to avoid detonation.
 
#26 ·
I really like the idea of a white valve cover, I'm still tossing my options around between black, white, or media blasted raw.
I had a white VC once hated it.

Every time you work under the hood you place your hands or a tool on the VC at some point leaving oily or greasy stains on it I have only had black since.
 
#25 ·
I'm real interested in how it holds up over time, is it paint or powder coat?

Where yours is sanded to raw on the emblem I am thinking I would paint the emblem/lettering in white on the black valve cover and black on the white one. For the raw one I think I would try to go for the shaved smooth look and have no emblem or lettering at all.

I'm here to see this come together.
 
#27 ·
I also like the black valve cover. And this is high temperature paint. I took it all the way down. High temp primer, high temp white, then high temp clear. And I shaved the letters off with a razor before I shot the clear. If you do that be super careful.
 
#33 ·
Looking good.

If you’re going to assemble the engine and trans outside the car and drop it all in together, you may want to take the engine wiring harness out of the bay so you can hook everything up while the engine is out of the car. Then you’ll only have to plug in the two harness connectors and the resistor box once the engine is in.
 
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