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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1990 crx si with the original d16a6. I wont to build the original motor. The head has had a value job and has been shaved. Machine shop has stated that the block needs to be bored out at least .10000. What is the best bore to go with being I have to bore it? And what pistons and rods are recommend? Trying to have a 250+ hp daily driver. Will be boosting but I want the motor right first. Car hasn't been on the road in 15 years.
 

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vitaras are great for cheap durability, but suck donkey balls for actual performance.


Are you looking for a setup that feels healthy everywhere, or are you worried only to have an actual 250+ hp?

More importantly, are you looking to daily drive this?

Because if so, you should budget 2-5x more money towards brakes, tires, suspension bushings, and either coilovers or a good spring and strut combo.


All new bushings everywhere alone makes a HUGE difference on all generations of the civics and crx's
 

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Well, I found you a Nippon-Racing version of the Vitara pistons and a set of Eagle "H-beam" rods.

Kit says 8.5:1 compression, but they dont say WHICH D series head was used.

$525

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-TURBO-PISTONS-FORGED-EAGLE-RODS-RINGS-SI-SiR-D16-D16Z6-D16Y8-ZC/151041201329?hash=item232ac1d4b1:g:Z2EAAOSw5cNYi9X3


That is about the lowest compression that still maintains some drivability and keeps the turbo easier to spin up.


They say the kit has done 350hp+, but Im pretty sure people have gotten the Nippon versions of the pistons beyond 450 or 500 hp

The H beam eagle rods are plenty strong and easily support 400+hp
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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have you heard of the y49 curse?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lol definitely not going with the vitara setup got a lot of bad reviews here. Am trying to keep my piston and rods around or under $600 if possible
 

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I have used vitara's in many builds with std rods and long rods ,

In the rat mobile I had the td04hl15 wastegate set on nog for 20k but I must have been making less power than a 10:1 10psi build... :eyeroll:
 

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Meat Popsicle
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Those charts are misleading.

If you tune it correctly then there’s no reason for low compression. At some point, when your dynamic compression ratio gets high enough, you’ll reach the knock limit of the fuel and will either need higher octane fuel, reduced timing, or a lower dynamic compression ratio to avoid detonation.
 
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