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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I been lurking this website for a while now, wanted some feed back on my current build

D16Z6 Block
75.5mm Vitara / Eagle combo
ARP studs
King STD bearings (main/con)
Stock head (3 angle valve job, clean etc)
Z6 IM with 450cc Injectors
p06 ECU chipped
Speedfactory 4bar MAP sensor
Grams 255 Fuel pump

Greddy 15g turbo open down pipe 2inch piping greddy intercooler, greddy bov, turbo has internal WG

I know the block is over kill for the turbo setup I have, eventually I want to get a ramhorn or top mount with a bigger turbo (5756)

What kind of numbers do you think this setup can wield, im guessing 220-240 after I start blowing hot air through the turbo.

Should I upgrade the FPR? or is this turbo pretty much for stock applications.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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is this running and driving or what?

is the ecu converted to p28 to control vtec?

leave the oem FPR in place.

you've got plenty of turbo to break stuff...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im about to finish putting the block together next week

(This is the second motor ive built, first one was similar but with SRP pistons but I did not tune it, I sold the motor, all same supporting mods)

p06 chipped converted to VTEC by phearable.net
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Very nice, i like those numbers for the 15g

Also

I read a thread somewhere that james (from speedfactory) blocked the hole on the turbo that fed to the wastegate and ran wastegate to vacuum box (to hold boost all through RPM) did you do this ?
 

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CL9 and ED7
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Very nice, i like those numbers for the 15g

Also

I read a thread somewhere that james (from speedfactory) blocked the hole on the turbo that fed to the wastegate and ran wastegate to vacuum box (to hold boost all through RPM) did you do this ?
What is boost pressure ? What is the rev limit? I think that turbo can make 290hp with 15psi at 7500rpm. It is the limit of that turbocharger. 11psi and you have 230 hp at 7000rpm, it sounds good, and a positive boost should start from low rpm.
 

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97 honda coupe
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Was it a bitch to get the eagle rods caps off for assembly. I can't get mine off, the bolts are mad tight
loosen the rod bolts a little bit so you have an 1/8'' of space between the rod and cap, then take a hammer and smack the rod bolt(NOT THE ROD) while your holding the rod cap, should come right off.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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vice, breaker bar, cheater pipe. pb blaster, heat, dead blow hammer.
 

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97 honda coupe
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7,611 Posts
I can't even loosen the bolt
put the rod on the ground with a towel under it and stand on top of it while you loosen the bolts. maybe buy a piece of aluminum pipe and put it through the rod and then stand on it so it cannot twist.

I mean really, am i being trolled here?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I called SCAT about my rod bearing torque specs for the 7/16 x 1.600 and it's 70ft/lb with ARP molly lube, I did clearance on one rod bearing and got .001 is that too tight for a turbo build ? Pics later
 

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So I called SCAT about my rod bearing torque specs for the 7/16 x 1.600 and it's 70ft/lb with ARP molly lube, I did clearance on one rod bearing and got .001 is that too tight for a turbo build ? Pics later
Neither Eagle nor SCAT make a d-series rod with a 7/16 bolt.

7/16" bolts are mostly used on big block chevy/ford/mopar.

7/16" is overkill for our small journals, not to mention the added weight and needed clearance on the skirts.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This was directly from SCAT them selves in California, he said whats the bolt size for the cap I said a 7/16 fit perfectly, then he asked me to measure the length from the cap down to the threads and it was 1.600 so he sent me the chart and said match accordingly, 70 ft/lb
 

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The torque specs are for the actual thread form, not what size socket fits the head.

You need to measure the major diameter of the actual threads. You could check them with a stretch gauge but you have 5/16 or 3/8 THREADS which means a 5/16 threaded bolt is probably stretched into deformation and is garbage now.
 
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