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1996 Civic DX
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm a noob on this forum but I've done a fair amount of research. I have a D16Y7 that I want to boost. Right now my goal is to get about 250whp out of it. I understand all the parts that I'll need for the actual turbo set up, but I'm wondering if there's other stock parts I need to upgrade. I don't want create a layout for my build and then realize that I've forgotten something once it's all put together.

I know I'll need to upgrade the clutch, injectors, internals (rods and pistons), ECU, fuel pump, exhaust. What else am I missing? I read on 1 thread that the axles would break at 250-300whp but I couldn't find that on any other threads. Is that accurate? I'm also considering switching the head to a Y8 but I have to look into that some more. Thanks. ;)
 

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1996 Civic DX
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi, I'm a noob on this forum but I've done a fair amount of research. I have a D16Y7 that I want to boost. Right now my goal is to get about 250whp out of it. I understand all the parts that I'll need for the actual turbo set up, but I'm wondering if there's other stock parts I need to upgrade. I don't want create a layout for my build and then realize that I've forgotten something once it's all put together.

I know I'll need to upgrade the clutch, injectors, internals (rods and pistons), ECU, fuel pump, exhaust. What else am I missing? I read on 1 thread that the axles would break at 250-300whp but I couldn't find that on any other threads. Is that accurate? I'm also considering switching the head to a Y8 but I have to look into that some more. Thanks. ;)
Oh I forgot to mention that I know I'll need spark plugs, a head gasket, and belts.
 

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We
Hi, I'm a noob on this forum but I've done a fair amount of research. I have a D16Y7 that I want to boost. Right now my goal is to get about 250whp out of it. I understand all the parts that I'll need for the actual turbo set up, but I'm wondering if there's other stock parts I need to upgrade. I don't want create a layout for my build and then realize that I've forgotten something once it's all put together.

I know I'll need to upgrade the clutch, injectors, internals (rods and pistons), ECU, fuel pump, exhaust. What else am I missing? I read on 1 thread that the axles would break at 250-300whp but I couldn't find that on any other threads. Is that accurate? I'm also considering switching the head to a Y8 but I have to look into that some more. Thanks. ;)
Not sure about the axles, but I think stock one will be fine. As for the Y8 head, it depends on where you want to make your power. A Z6 head will flow the best up top, the Y8 will give a little better low-mid, but can never be made to flow as much as a Z6 due to the port design. The Y8 will also increase compression a bit. It's a HIGHLY debatable subject and there is no solid answer as to which is best, because it all depends on the application.

Only things I see that you missed are intake piping, head studs, bearings, boost controller, oil feed and return lines, wastegate, and (if you're going over 10psi) a map sensor.

Edit: I assume you have included turbo, exhaust manifold, blow-off valve, downpipe and cat-back when you say "exhaust". Also when you say "ECU", I assume you mean an ECU that is socketed, chipped and tunable.
 

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All of this information is posted in abundance on this forum. Hit the search button on Google and it will tell you everything you need to know
 

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1998 Honda Civic Si
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One noob to another, don't expect everyone else to do the leg work for you. Just because we are new to this doesn't mean they are. Your question has been answered a million times before. Read, read, read. There's a ton of awesome build threads that are not just informative but entertaining as well. Soak up that knowledge, my friend.
 

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mkae sure you soak up CORRECT information.

Dont guess, ask a question, just to get some oddball info corrected or shut down.


stock D series motors only like around 200whp because that is a good average number. beyond that is your tuners skill level, the health of the motor, and the quality of parts.

most d series axles are completely dependant on the driver. you can snap those axles under fully stock power, and on the opposite end of the spectrum, there are people running 400whp on stock axles.

if you want better quality, buy OEM. you spend much more for a MUCH better life expectancy.

in the mean time, read through the turbo FAQ, review user build threads, and make good judgement calls. if you are finding information fighting itself, find a credabhle user or source and decide if its legit or not.

dont cheap out on critical parts. a good quality turbo setup will be 2500-4500 bucks depending on how far you go, and that is not including the motor itself or its internals.
 

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1996 Civic DX
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I understand that there's massive amounts of information about these types of builds. I've done a lot of reading, including the stickies on this forum. As I said, 1 person said that the stock axles won't handle that much power, and I couldn't find anyone else saying the same thing after doing a thorough search. Since replacing the axles wasn't mentioned in the stickies or other places, I wanted to make sure the stickies weren't missing any other parts I may need to upgrade.

Thank you all for the replies. I appreciate it.
 

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animag771 got it right on the head couldn't have said it better my self.. missing one thing.. upgraded cam shaft and some nice good looking cam gears=] maybe upgraded throttle body and intake manifold.. get a ramhorn style turbo manifold and get a resistor for your turbo to preserve its life.....brain crower springs and retainers... u can get the head bore
 

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axles don't need to be upgraded unless your ballin and you can afford it.. I say f it why not?!?!? maybe get a high flow cat or delete your cat an resonators ..but that would mean giving up some low end torque.. but higher powerband in higher rpms ...I have that done to my turbo d16 built engine..im in love with my car
 

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deleting a catalytic converter has NEVER resulted in loss of anything, other than emissions.

where does some of this information get found?

its like the old backpressure theory of "you need SOME"

nope.
 

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90 crx si/96 accord
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deleting a catalytic converter has NEVER resulted in loss of anything, other than emissions.
Not entirely true
Not entirely untrue.

On any obd2 compliant vehicle with a post cat O2, removing the cat and leaving the O2 will result in the ecu pulling timing and adding fuel.
 

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please explain how my 2013 Honda Fit got faster with BOTH the cats deleted, while maintaining the rest of the exhaust 100% factory. car felt significantly more responsive once the ultra low emissions cats were deleted.

no vehicle ecu in the world will pull timing and add fuel when it sees a converter missing. secondary O2 sensors traditionally only check to see if the cat is working properly, such as thermal changes, whetehr its matching the primary O2, etc..



BACK on topic please. make a thread if you want to discuss poor information such as that.
 

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You don't necessarily need axles. It partly depends on how you plan to drive your car and what tires you run at the track. With 250-300whp, if you run a drag radial, you'll probably break stock axles, especially if you have wheel hop. If you run a slick, it's far less likely. There's a local guy that I have raced with several times that makes 325+whp and doesn't break axles when he runs slicks. I personally have used DSS 2.9's in the past and currently am running Insaneshafts, just for peace of mind. If you're doing a budget oriented build, I would suggest keeping the stock axles for now.
 

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make a thread to discuss poor info ??? lol this guys funny I was posting trying to help the OP not argue with you man.. your right tho maybe I shouldn't have said loose power then more changing the powerband .. I have a deleted cat/resonators/muffler connected to my pfab turbo manifold off that has a tial wastegate and dump tube.. sounds good.. I love getting rid of cats/resonators/mufflers on turbo cars or any really.. that's just me though..mine pops like crazy
 

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the Fit popped a ton once muffler was straight piped. Made people think the car was faster than the slug it was. flat 16 quarter aint fast lol



OEM axles will last the longest. Ive had no good luck having ANY axles from auitozone or oreillys or advance. they might stay together for a long time, but goddamn, they get play in the joints fairly quickly. pretty pathetic when the manufacturing companies claim same or better than OEM quality
 
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haha I hear you on that man.. im glad I registerd this site.. I always have so many questions being semi new to this... sorry if this is thread jacking .. I already got a warning and idk what I did.. I always get in trouble on these forums bc I feel like people feel superior over people who don't know a lot about cars OR are just trying to do something a different way or a cheaper way.. but anyways today when I was driving my car and I hit WOT my rpms around 5000 started just going up like crazyyy but yet the car was not going anywhere.. and I was already at a rolling start not just putting it into gear so idk if its slipping clutch .. its almost like when you spin your tires and your rpms keep going up it was like that but I was going like 35 mph...
 
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