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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys,

new to D-series just got my hands on a 98 hatch, and spare engine/box.
i am looking at putting the motor on a stand, strip/clean/inspect and replace
what i need to. i think it will be a great but slow learning curve with engines
i hope to week by week get one new part or most probs a hell of a lot slower
(depending on funds). the first impression i get from reading other threads is
some forged pistons (Vitars) seem a popular choice, i am guessing thats because there good lol.

i am brand new to the game but like i said i can see my self doing it, but i want
to do it right... is this a good place to start? any help/comments would be great
i will get some photos up this W/E

peace.
 

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They call me Awesome!
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Best place to start is searching. READ everything you can.

Then define what you want to build the motor for. A turbo motor will be different than a naturally aspirated motor (I.E. Vitara's are for a turbo motor).

Once you have those down read some more and find out what parts you want to spend your money on.
 

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Yeah, what are your goals with the motor? Just because Vitaras fit into the motor doesn't make them the best fit for all applications.

GL, and read up!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yes i know how the mechanics work, i just dont know were to start i mean lol if all im gonna get is shit for asking for help then wtf. i will stick to bikes
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok right? so scrap those. i would like to turbo it after i have the thing rebuilt. but i can see this being a long and expensive proses, is it that the vitars are low compression that makes them no good for NA?
 

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They call me Awesome!
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yes i know how the mechanics work, i just dont know were to start i mean lol if all im gonna get is shit for asking for help then wtf. i will stick to bikes
Who's givin you crap, you let ole'awebb know and I'll take care of em for ya. I got that kinda pull around here!

ok right? so scrap those. i would like to turbo it after i have the thing rebuilt. but i can see this being a long and expensive proses, is it that the vitars are low compression that makes them no good for NA?
Are you going to do a "budget" turbo build or are you going to buy all the pieces at once? There are advantages and disadvantages to both.

From your first post it looks like you'll probably go the budget route, so I'd start buying parts to rebuild the motor. And yes they will be long and expensive.

The reason guys like the Vitara's is because they're cheap, low compression, and strong. Start by pricing rebuild kits from FJ Distributors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Who's givin you crap, you let ole'awebb know and I'll take care of em for ya. I got that kinda pull around here!



Are you going to do a "budget" turbo build or are you going to buy all the pieces at once? There are advantages and disadvantages to both.

From your first post it looks like you'll probably go the budget route, so I'd start buying parts to rebuild the motor. And yes they will be long and expensive.

The reason guys like the Vitara's is because they're cheap, low compression, and strong. Start by pricing rebuild kits from FJ Distributors.





cheers dude big help
 

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What's the motor your building? y7, y8, A6, Z6? never really specified what the spare motor was. I'm going to lean towards y7, y8 though as you have a 98. Regardless of all that also don't forget very important part before you start any build. Have the head/block checked to be sure there decks are flat =)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks mate i will be sure to do that, the reason i hadn't said weather it is a Y7 - Y8 is because i hadn't seen it yet and the guy selling it was unsure (it was his daughters car) turns out i have just bought a D16 Y4 lol. not really what i was expecting, is there much difference be twine the that and the y7 y8? all the research i have been doing was for those :( also are there any other people from WA aus in here am looking for a good shop for decking.

(borrowed from Wikipedia)

D16y4
1996–2000 Civic CXi,GL,GLi (New Zealand,Australia)

* Displacement : 1,590 cc
* Bore and Stroke : 75 mm × 90 mm (3.0 in × 3.5 in)
* Compression : 9.4:1
* Power : 120 hp (88.0 kW) @ 6400 rpm
* Torque : 144 nm / 5000rpm
* Redline : 6800 rpm
* Rev-limiter: 7200 rpm
* Fuel Control : OBD-2 MPFI
* Head Code : P2A-2
* ECU Code : P2K
* Rod /Stroke Ratio : 1.52
* Rod Length : 152 mm
* Deck Height : 212

sound about right?
 

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ej1
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I think you mean 137mm for the rod length.
D16Y4

I copied and pasted it also. Some thing is not right. You can't have the r/s ratio that low with 152mm rods lol.
* Found in:
o 1998–2000 Civic 1.6 iES (Turkey)
o 1996–2000 Civic CXi,GL,GLi (New Zealand,Australia)
+ Displacement : 1,590 cc
+ Bore and Stroke : 75 mm × 90 mm (3.0 in × 3.5 in)
+ Compression : 9.4:1
+ Power : 120 hp (88.0 kW) @ 6400 rpm
+ Torque : 144 nm / 5000rpm
+ Redline : 6800 rpm
+ Rev-limiter: 7200 rpm
+ Fuel Control : OBD-2 MPFI
+ Head Code : P2A-2
+ ECU Code : P2K
+ Rod /Stroke Ratio : 1.52
+ Rod Length : 152 mm
+ Deck Height : 212

[edit]
 

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I all most edited the information on the wikipedia but it was going to show my IP address publicly unless I joined up. I think it's gay that they don't give you compression height and dish or dome specs on every Honda engine and other car brands so we could mix and match pistons to run in our engines if we had to.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
alright got my boy coming round tomorrow night so i hope to get a idea or two. will upload some photos this W/E.
 
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