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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking at rebuilding my D16z6 engine, out of a '95 civic ex, and had a few questions. Also, I'm looking to turbo it and im a delivery driver, so this is a daily driver too.
-What is a good bore size? i've read that alot of people do 75mm, would this be the best?
-What are good pistons and rods? I'm told that Vitara pistons are "the best" but i can not find a website for the actual pistons.
-Does anyone know about the Necka Seal(sorry if spelling is off) coating? I was told that some honda have a thin seal inside the sleeves and the guy that would be boring my engine said he couldn't do it if my engine had the seal.

Thats all the things i can remember for now. When i think of the rest or come up with new questions i'll put them up here. Thanks for your help.
 

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75mm is the standard bore size. You would want 75.5 just to freshen things up and get better clearances and better sealing rings. Vitara pistons are out of a Suzuki, they happen to have the same dimensions as some of the d series pistons. Z6 is one of them. They are by far not the ''best'' they yield a lower compression and do handle a great deal of power, but its all in the tune and supporting mods. Fj distributors is a big supplier of vitara pistons and custom rods for them. Oh and youll be fine to bore your current sleeves up to 76mm iirc. Good luck with doing more research and building your motor.
 

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Nica seal is a nickle plating that is applied to most 2cycle engines. It helps with ring seating an cylender durability. Your engine doesn't have it. Read. Then establish a goal that will work with your budget and mechanical skill. Also when setting aside your cash flow a good rule of thumb is. Total what you think it will cost an then add half again more. Nothing worse than a bunch of little things to set u back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I found a turbo bottom end kit on FJD. has anyone used this?
I'm assuming that its worth the money to get it since everyone I have talked to has mentioned something about them.
(TheWall) -Would 76mm be good for a delivery car and DD? Wouldn't I have a bigger risk of detonation?
-I don't remember exactly what the guy was talking about but he said i would have to shave(?) something so the rods or pistons didn't hit. Anyone know what he might be talking about?
-Would I have to take out the power steering to turbo? If Ijust took it out would it ruin anything or should i get a PS Delete kit?
-Whats a good compression? i know nothing about compression fyi.

thank you guys for you help and tips.
 

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I found a turbo bottom end kit on FJD. has anyone used this?
I'm assuming that its worth the money to get it since everyone I have talked to has mentioned something about them.
(TheWall) -Would 76mm be good for a delivery car and DD? Wouldn't I have a bigger risk of detonation?
-I don't remember exactly what the guy was talking about but he said i would have to shave(?) something so the rods or pistons didn't hit. Anyone know what he might be talking about?
-Would I have to take out the power steering to turbo? If Ijust took it out would it ruin anything or should i get a PS Delete kit?
-Whats a good compression? i know nothing about compression fyi.

thank you guys for you help and tips.
Everyone and their mom wants the bottom end kit from them, its a great kit:bigok: lol. Iirc you need to make clearance for the arp rod bolts on the girdle. So you shave some material away. You really should read some vitara build threads, all of the questions you are asking have been answered there. I know I've read them lol. Boring to 76mm isn't going to change much, your turbo is the biggest risk of detonation/pre-ignition. That is all taken care of through the tune. Although, I'm not 100% sure what all boring that size would do.

They make power steering delete kits? It depends on your turbo setup, most of them allow for p/s, just not a/c. You can rip your power steering completely out, or you can "loop" it (do a search there is a diy on every forum).

All your compression needs Honda D-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks

Lower compression is best for boost, you can run decently high compression with a little less boost for a better pull when out of boost for DD. So in all honesty I would go for a different piston set up...something to get you around the 10:1 area. Then tune with boost from there. Specially if you bore to 76mm anything to help give it a tad more tq. Don't take me word for word either, I'm sure some of my info is misleading or could be put int better words.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll start looking around more so i don't keep asking answered questions. lol
I think it was a delete kit, maybe just a "loop" kit. idk. I've been looking through too much to think straight right now.
Thanks alot for the link.
 

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I say stay at 75mm and go w/H-rods and vitara pistons. But hey that is me playing it safe so I don't weaken the cylinder walls. Have fun with your build. I am currently working on mine. Make sure you get a great tune though. Good Luck!
 

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Nikasil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Here is the Wikipedia article. It is fairly accurate.

Here is a very similar if not identical process offered by Nikasil's competition.

Electrosil | Electroplating | Chemical Coating For Engine Cylinders | Melbourne Australia

The FJ distributors Vitara with slightly longer rod is a good value for money kit. It is cheap, considerably stronger than stock and low enough in compression to make it easy to get a safe economical tune with reasonable boost.

The best is a custom forged piston like Arias or SRP or CP with Carrillo rods. Forged pistons on Scat or Eagle or FJ H beam rods are still VERY good and the complete kit will cost less than 4 Carrillos.

It all depends on budget vs aspirations re power, reliability and durability and on intended use.

For a daily driver on a budget I would recommend Vitaras and the FJ longer rods and moderate boost to say 200hp or a little more.

If you boost you will also need bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, maybe a better MAP sensor, new exhaust (I would recommend a cast iron log for DD on a budget. I think RC Autoworks does one that accommodates the AC and PS and seals up good log term with no leaks, gives best response but kills top end a bit. Cast iron manifolds are also quieter.

You will also need a tune and an emulator and wide band oxygen sensor helps if you decide you want to monitor your tune and do small adjustments yourself. CAUTION. If you don't know what your doing you can very easily blow the engine by self tuning.
 

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Oh

And there is no such thing as semi forged, they are either cast, forged or theoretically can be billet.

Some very good quality cast pistons like Vitaras are described as semi forged, but they are just very good quality cast.
 

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Use the smallest bore that will clean up straight and true. The difference in capacity between the original 75mm and a 0.5 or even 1mm bore is very small. Staying smaller leaves room for another rebore at a later date.
 

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75.0mm bore with stock D16 stroke of 90mm = 1590cc
75.5mm bore with stock D16 stroke of 90mm = 1612cc
76.0mm bore with stock D16 stroke of 90mm = 1633cc

1633 is only about 2.6% increase over 1590. It is simply not worth the trouble to for the gain in capacity. Only rebore as required to fix wear or damage to the old bore.
 
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