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Discussion Starter #1
Did anyone ever did a d15z1 with z6vtec head, turbo setup. help setup
Im stuck with my d15z1, and thinking of putting a turbo on it. already sourced a used head.

D15z1/D16z6 vtec head with z6 intake manifold. will it bolt up right in place without major mods. will all oil holes etc.s be direct fit. what belt head gaskets do i need to use. also im going to get some arp bolts will they fit?


and with the turbo i have a ebay turbo t3/t4 kit, i have a y8 tranny on the side, and if i put a p28 do i need to mod the vx harness. i have a 5 wire i think o2 sensor. is that the only thing i need to convert to run the vtec p28



parts that i have a aem fuel regulator, and a mini fuel gauge, vtec controler, will i need these for a turbo, my friend also gave me a msd ignition set,
what do i need to run the turbo help pls, i know tune is important should i later bring it to a shop to tune the turbo?
 

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Msd, vtec controller, fuel pressure reg. Aren't needed.

The p28 will have to be chipped and tune.
On the 5wire o2 idr i, I believe you have to de pin and swap a few wires. Ill check on that or someone will chime in about it.

And its been a while since I messed with mini me swaps. But I believe you need to remove the oil squiter between cylinder 2 and 3. Other then that it should bolt on without problem.
Also there is a chart somewhere online tht tells u what belt is needs for x block: y head combo.

And on your turbo setup ur need fuel injectors, tune etc...

*edit a lil googling came up woth this
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/148979-putting-d16z6-head-d15z1-block-does-work.html

Its only a few months old so try pming him.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Msd, vtec controller, fuel pressure reg. Aren't needed.

The p28 will have to be chipped and tune.
On the 5wire o2 idr i, I believe you have to de pin and swap a few wires. Ill check on that or someone will chime in about it.

And its been a while since I messed with mini me swaps. But I believe you need to remove the oil squiter between cylinder 2 and 3. Other then that it should bolt on without problem.
Also there is a chart somewhere online tht tells u what belt is needs for x block: y head combo.

And on your turbo setup ur need fuel injectors, tune etc...

*edit a lil googling came up woth this
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/148979-putting-d16z6-head-d15z1-block-does-work.html

Its only a few months old so try pming him.

pm sent, for the d15z1 o2 sensor how do i convert it to get it to work. is there a conversion harness that i can buy. how can i make it work.
can i just run a stock p28 for now to run it until i get a chance to install turbo later. and then get it chipped tunned im thinking on chrome.

im going na for now and later turbo. what size injectors do i need later?
 

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whats your compression going to look like using that setup? everybody seems to like the dsm 450 injectors, you might also need a resistor box.
 

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under the impression a z1 and a z6 head are the same.... they have the same stamp code P08 on them. unless the combustion chamber is different on the heads.
 

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Strange. I'm running the exact setup the OP is describing.

Been running fine for almost two years. A solid year of that was 20+ PSI, took it like a champ. Granted, it was on my 15G, but she would wheel-hop in the top of third lol. Running all OEM un-touched internals, minus the ARP Headstuds.

I used an OEM Y8 Headgasket, works on all D's and it's the cheapest price from what I've seen.

Pretty sure I used a Z1 Timing Belt & Tensioner. I remember ordering the Z6 stuff and there was some slack in the belt you just couldn't get rid of. So I had to put on the old Z1 stuff, it's tight. If not, too tight. Maybe a combination of a Z6 belt with the larger Z1 tensioner would be the comfy medium? (Just guessing here)

whats your compression going to look like using that setup?
From the Zeal calculator, it works out to ~7.8:1 compression... because of the dish of the Z1 piston. As seen below:



 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Strange. I'm running the exact setup the OP is describing.

Been running fine for almost two years. A solid year of that was 20+ PSI, took it like a champ. Granted, it was on my 15G, but she would wheel-hop in the top of third lol. Running all OEM un-touched internals, minus the ARP Headstuds.

I used an OEM Y8 Headgasket, works on all D's and it's the cheapest price from what I've seen.

Pretty sure I used a Z1 Timing Belt & Tensioner. I remember ordering the Z6 stuff and there was some slack in the belt you just couldn't get rid of. So I had to put on the old Z1 stuff, it's tight. If not, too tight. Maybe a combination of a Z6 belt with the larger Z1 tensioner would be the comfy medium? (Just guessing here)



From the Zeal calculator, it works out to ~7.8:1 compression... because of the dish of the Z1 piston. As seen below:



the pistons looked dished, alright. what hp numbers do i expect from this type of setup. how fast does yours go?


do i need to remove the oil squiters between cylinder 2 and 3. or something like that. or will it just bolt up?
and for the ARP head studs what part number or bolts should i use the d16z6 one or d15z1 are they all the same?
and for the block guard, and turbo head gasket what brands are good. is it necessary.
 

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the pistons looked dished, alright. what hp numbers do i expect from this type of setup. how fast does yours go?


do i need to remove the oil squiters between cylinder 2 and 3. or something like that. or will it just bolt up?
and for the ARP head studs what part number or bolts should i use the d16z6 one or d15z1 are they all the same?
and for the block guard, and turbo head gasket what brands are good. is it necessary.

Not sure on HP numbers, same with most D-series... ~220whp is about the safe limit. Mine goes alright, could be tuned a bit better (a tad rich) but it gets the job done.

You shouldn't have to remove the oil squirter, or whatnot, should already be gone being that it's a VTEC block. If not, then yeah. Other than that, it bolts right up like any other D-series head.

I just got ARP's for a D16Z6, works fine.

Block Guard isn't necessary, even though mine has one (got the car with it in). As for a headgasket, OEM Honda D16Y8 Headgasket all the way.
 

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Block guard is only necessary if you plan on going major boost.

The best part about the D15Z1 is that they have the thickest D-series rods of any stock bottom end, identically as thick if not more so than D16Z6 rods, but with the small big end for the D15 crank. The way the bottom end is, it's set up perfectly for boost, and I would not feel bad at all running up to ~1.5 BAR/21-22 PSI through a Z1/Z6 P28 swap with a block guard and studs.

Already replied to your PM about the setup and o2 wiring garbage, hope you get built soon.

Swapping a Z6 head/intake on and using a P28 on 4 wire will be the equivalent of building a Z6 with vitaras on stock rods, except without the piston slap caused by the nearly microscopic underbore of Vitaras in a D series. A completely respectable setup.

The best part? The VX manifold is the same as the HF manifold, unbolt the cat and order a T3 adapter, get an internally wastegated turbo and bolt it on. My friend's keeping his A/C so we're using a proper manifold, I'm using the VX mani with my own hatch to bolt on a big 16G.

Should be tuesday that he brings his hatch back for the turbo install, I'll let you know how it goes and what to expect. He'll be boosting at 8PSI on a Garrett/AiResearch TB0344 using a cheapy chinese-made compressor housing (We didn't have the flanges for the AiResearch housing) and internal wastegate, with a DSM 1G BOV. Nothing too intense, it's his only car so I'm making him step up mildly so it stays reliable.
 
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