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Discussion Starter #1
just got this car ~2 weeks ago. around 1K to 1500 RPMs if i apply a bit of gas, say ~25-30% throttle in any gear at any speed the motor seems to stutter or feels like it'll misfire but if i maintain throttle or increase the gas more it'll go away. happens only when i let off then apply gas a few seconds later, but it wont occur if its like 10 seconds in between. the car has ~169K miles.
heres what i changed thus far:
-fuel filter
-air filter
-new plugs gapped @0.044 where the previous owner had them at 0.055-0.060:wacko:
-new 20W-50 oil (owner said thats what hes been using) cause it doesnt eat as much oil as 10W-30(again from previous owner)
-new trans oil
-cleaned the IACV

the previous owner had the distributor assembly replaced, but i dont know if his mechanic set the timing back to what it was, but he assured me that his guy most likely did. this is the same mechanic whom i found the plugs were gapped at 0.055-0.060:pinch:.

i've been adjusting the dizzy(after marking the area with a sharper) and turning it clockwise as i heard turning it towards the bumper retards the timing correct? still didnt change. i dont want to try and turn it CCW if its gonna advanced it, if u understand where im coming from.

what else is there that could cause the motor to shutter/misfire for a brief moment only between 1000-1500RPMs and none at higher RPMs? thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
forgot to metion, once fully warmed up, the idle needle will sit either just below or on the very first has mark(~200RPMs?) of the RPM gauge. is that normal or is it suppose to be closer to 1000 RPMs like at 800-900? i tried adjusting the adjuster screw on the throttlebody but i cant seem to figure what hex/torx bolt to use as its not faced up but towards the floor.
 

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first, i would not play with the idle adjust screw, it just makes your life difficult!! maybe as a last resort.
and can you clarify, are you trying to say that our car is idling around 200 rpm when warmed up?
any cels?
check for vacum leaks
 

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Dont fuck with the adjustment screw. Its not for you to play with.

You also dont time the engine without a timing light.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i'll check for any vac leaks. it doesnt do it on a cold motor, maybe at like 1000RPMs, but once its fully warmed up, it'll idle at the very first has mark. cervan, unplug the IACV, but what screw are you referring to, then fire the motor up and see if it does, and if it does it would be at ~650RPMs?
 

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i'll check for any vac leaks. it doesnt do it on a cold motor, maybe at like 1000RPMs, but once its fully warmed up, it'll idle at the very first has mark. cervan, unplug the IACV, but what screw are you referring to, then fire the motor up and see if it does, and if it does it would be at ~650RPMs?
unplug the IACV then fire the motor up, if its at higher than 650 rpm's then you need to adjust the screw down. if you cant get it to lower then you have a vac leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
so unplug the IACV and fire the motor up. if the idles higher than 650, adjust the screw, but if the RPMs lower than 650 after unplugging the IACV and firing it up then its vac leak correcT?
 

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so unplug the IACV and fire the motor up. if the idles higher than 650, adjust the screw, but if the RPMs lower than 650 after unplugging the IACV and firing it up then its vac leak correcT?
no, if the idle is lower then you need to adjust the screw up. When you have a vac leak it raises the idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
lol oh? i thought the stock gaps are ~0.044 to 0.045? i'll regap them to 0.030

edit-i have 2 issues....idle and the slight stutter at low throttle
 
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