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00 civic dx cdm
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi, I was driving today and everything seemed fine. when i got home i was driving in the parking to go park at my spot and suddently the engine shut down. i feel lucky that this happened as i got home and not on the highway - my god thats like $250 towing saved (thats how high it is here for highway towing when you are not insured). anyways, as the car was moving when engine shut, i was able to let it flow on neutral, guide it to my parking spot and park. but as i tried to turn on the car again it wouldnt!

here is what happens now:

started cranks, keeps cranking, but no engine startup.

here is what i did till now:

took out distributor, had a ignition coil test, i.e. resistance test. everything seems fine with that.

also, ive been looking around forums and people talk about grounding problems related to my issue. im saying this because ive been driving without the engine-to-radiator support ground wire (since i replaced my rad support). that surprised me that this could be an issue. i thought that the ground wire was supposed to protect the engine from thunder discharge or something, anyways... so i hooked back the engine ground wire, but still nothing, cranks cranks but nothing.

ill be honest, i left that wire outside the whole winter laying on my old rad support and now it is kinda rusty so tomorrow ill try with another wire... but could this really be the problem? not so sure, since ive been driving for the past few days without this wire (just got the eg back on the road after like 6 months). i mean ive been driving it around the block during that time but nothing like highway trip.

some people also talk about termostat ground... i noticed my thermostat housing got oil spill on it (alot of oil spill from bad valve cover seal).. so maybe i think ill try cleaning that up and see if it is the problem.

so im just here to ask anyone about ideas? what could be wrong here? i mean the car was going strong and the dizzy is new also...

thanks in advance
 

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Yea the ground wire can cause an issue and i would say get a new one that old one sounds nasty. Also clean the thermostat ground with some sandpaper. Is there a check engine light on? You can also try tapping on the main relay sometimes that helps. Its under the drivers side by the hood release its a grey box that's plugged in and held down with a bolt. You really have to get down there if you don't see it but its not so bad. Hope that helps.

Also did you check the primary and secondary sides of the coil? Also check the igniter/ignition control modual AutoZone can text it for you and also i hope you didn't remove the distributor from the head without marking its position otherwise you will have to set ignition timing, its not hard just need a timing light.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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fuel
spark
compression


make sure you've got all 3. does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to on? does the check light come on and go off? main relay click? ALL grounds clean and tight? fuel filter new? fuel tank have fuel? timing correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
update:

i reinstalled distributor after testing, cleaned grounds... still cranking only. so i checked fuel pressure by losening the bolt on fuel filter and checking if fuel sprays when i crank... i got this trick from ericthecarguy(youtube). so as i did this, no fuel sprayed. as i was doing that by myself i put a sheet of paper around the fuel filter so if it sprayed when i cranked then it would be wet with fuel. but no, sheet was dry still.. so i come to the conclusion that my main relay is faulty. however, i can indeed hear it click once when i crank. so not sure... any ideas
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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do you hear your fuel pump prime? there is a way to trouble shoot the main relay in the repair manual.
 

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D-series SoCal Division
93' dx hatchback
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The three main reasons you don't have fuel pressure.

Bad pump.

Bad main relay.

Blown ACG fuse.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
update:

took out main relay, checked for bad solder spots, everything seems fine. swaped main relay from other civic (98 sedan which is running) to test. still no go. also still no fuel pressure (no fuel spilling when fuel filter bolt loose).

by the way, i read a lot of places people talk about fuel pump prime... what does that mean exactly? is it a noise the pump is supposed to make or something?

anyways, for now i know that the main relay is good. so, my main relay is good but still no fuel pressure... next im going to check my fuel pump i guess.... any thoughts? thanks yall for the help! :)
 

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When the pump primers it's sending fuel to the fuel rail you should here a winding sound when turn the key twice. The relay should also be clicking twice. The pump is easy to get to. Pull it out and either use 9 volt battery or the car battery and hook it your pump. If the pump turns on its good.

Also spray starter fluid in the intake and try to start it to make sure you got spark. If it turns on then shuts off you got spark. That will help rule out some stuff and make it easier to pinpoint problem.
 

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pop the bottom of the rear seats off so you can get to the fuel pump connector. unplug the fuel pump, put a multimeter in the plug at the correct pins and test for power when the key is attempting to start the motor.

if you dont have power its a fuse, relay, or ignition key circuit issue.

if you have power, swap pumps with the 98 civic and see if it fires up.


dont play guessing games

dont fuck around with starting fluid
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
update: tested a few fuses today before attempting fuel pump test/swap. i tested all relevant fuses i could think of for my issue, i.e. 31, 32 for main relay and ecu which are in hood fuse box. those are ok. also tested under dash fuse 12 for acg(s) and fuse 18 for starter signal.

note that my car does not have fuse 24 for acg (s), it is a 93 3door cx canadian market... i red in manual that acg s can be either 12 or 24 depending if ur car has SRS system. since i have no fuse 24 i guess my car has no SRS. anyways thats just a side note.

back to under dash fuses 12 and 18. both are not blown. however, one thing is weird on connections of fuse 18 for starter signal: when checking voltage between connection terminals of slot 18, there is no battery voltage drop! it reads 0.39 instead of something near 12v. on the other hand, the connection of slot 12 reads 11.96v which is what one would expect... so im wondering there must be a short somewhere for starter signal wires... but where/how to look for it?

another thing i noticed is that my grounds are fine when i check voltage between battery and bolt on chassis, but as soon as the probe needle moves out of the wire bolt to the chassis it reads 0v meaning the chassis isnt acting like a ground. it does that for my engine-chassis wire and also for my tranny-chassis wire. also when i tested fuses the chassis did not work as ground, i had to test fuses by continuity, ie resistance test...

any thoughts. ? :p


EDIT:

finaly i think it is normal that fuse 18 shows no voltage drop... after looking at diagrams, it shows that this fuse is placed after starter relay, which is activated at ignition (i.e. when starter activated). as a test i probed the voltage drop on the terminals of the fuse slot again but at the same time i cranked the car. result: voltage went up to desired 12V... so no go here, fuses are all good. next up: fuel pump check. i hope this is it. doing it tomorrow tho... so fucking over this right now lol

thanks for support guys !
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
update:

ok so lastly i have checked power to the fuel pump... found out that no power is being delivered. did voltage probe on yellow/green and black wire which feed fuel pump, while cranking engine, but voltage stills at 0. looked for shorts along black/yellow wires but still not found anything.

next, i voltage probed the yellow wire which feeds the pump right from the main relay while connecting the negative terminal to the battery negative itself... cranked the car and guess what? only 0.05 to 0.1 volt available! what the heck..

this means that my wires going from relay to pump should be fine, however my wires going from battery to main relay must be bad... im kinda confused tho, cause my main relay clicks fine and im using a new main relay... so it cant be the main relay internal circuit. hence it should be something in between the battery and the main relay. anyone has a clue? lol
 

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have you tested the ignition key harness?

do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
update: ok guys after some research and looking at diagrams, and making the links from my tests, i think i have an idea of my problem... my ecu is NOT grounding my main relay. now why would that be? bad ecu i guess... getting used one for $30 on monday - luckily found someone who lives nearby selling one on local classifieds :) hopefully it works

Thanks to this website too: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/

very helpful, as in the honda manual they only say that the ecu grounds the main relay which supplies amperage to the fuel pump. but nothing like diagrams like in this useful website... i'll keep u updated on my results.

thanks again for the support! :D
 

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if it turns out your ecu is indeed bad, Ill give ya a few bucks for it plus shipping. Im always up for learning how to fix shit
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
final update (fixed problem!):

ok guys, so as i was suspecting from my tests and research, the ecu was indeed NOT grounding the main relay. got another ecu for $30 today, swapped in and car started right away! fucking ecu was trolling me from the start lol

thanks for all the help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
if it turns out your ecu is indeed bad, Ill give ya a few bucks for it plus shipping. Im always up for learning how to fix shit
yes, ecu confirmed to been at fault for not grounding main relay. let me know how you want to work this out
 
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