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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I recently obtained a swap that consists of A6 head and B7 block. The guy that gave this thing was really excited about it and I said why the hell not. So now it is mine, and I would like to put it to use.

Background: I have 1988 Civic STD which runs just fine in its stock form, but it definitely lacks character. So an idea for an engine swap was born. I started acquiring parts and now I am ready to start putting it all together. I honestly do not care for turbos, nitros, and doing laps at the record time, I want a daily driver that is fun to drive, interesting to work with, and somewhat fuel efficient. I would really like D15B, but in California it would be too much of a headache to get it legal. So I am settling for less.

Goals: To put this combo on the road and learn along the way. I was planning on utilizing my MPFI swap, PM6 ecu, and appropriate distributor, and 1989 CRX Si tranny. This I have already covered in my research. Now the more important thing is to make sure that these components will work with this setup, and make sure that I am not missing anything in the process.

All your comments and input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Current stage: head is off, valves look kinda dirty, no visible damage, everything most likely stock except the sprocket (integra?). Block is being cleaned, nice clean pistons and sleeves, spins easily, no visible damage. Oil pan is off as well, AFAIK everything looks OK there, too, BUT I am new to this so who knows.

Questions: From your experiences, and probably common sense, what checkups I should do before putting it all back together. Will I have to go through some mods to make it work (i.e. shaving, polishing, etc.)?

It is a lengthy intro post so I am just gonna add a few pictures and call it good.




 

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A space ship
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I would have the head cleaned, leak checked, and milled straight. Now is also a good time to do things such as T-belt, water pump. Hell, if your up to it rip the block apart and replace all the seals, gaskets, rings, and bearings.
What are your plans for the car?
Welcome and glad to see you doing your own work and having fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you. History of this setup is somewhat shady, and when I picked it up it was supposed to include, ported/polished, 3 angle racing valves and springs, shaved head, stage 2 cam gear and shaft, block has been board over 1 and the pistons have been upgraded same as cank shaft all racing bearings and seals. Well, I am not quite sure what it all adds up to performance wise, what I am sure of, though is that the first thing I saw when I took the valve cover off - was the missing gasket. Simple omission, maybe, but puts everything else in question.

That is a good lesson for me and other New Kids with the Block who may be reading this.

Cervan, if you consider this: whoring manuals, you are Julia Roberts to me. Thanks a lot!
 

· D-Series Destruction Master
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Gonna run like a stock d15b7. b7, b2, and A6 castings are all the same. The cams, ecu and bore/pistons are what made the difference. A y7 head would bump up the compression ratio.

The bore is the same in all 3 blocks you listed. The intake manifolds are different, with the A6 and B7 being very similar. His setup will run better than a stock d15b7.

You got that right about the castings being the same, but the A6 head has better valve springs than the B2/B7, and the cam...the cam is where the biggest difference is.

to the OP, what intake manifold are you planning on using when you convert to MPFI? I suggest the D16Z6, it's a great manifold and can be purchased very inexpensively.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I was scavenging for the MPFI swap pieces I snatched a D16A6 manifold (I think) which I was planning on using. Decent used parts are hard to come by where I live, but I will keep that ZC in mind for sure and browse through For Sale forums. Thanks. Now question, my block is fairly clean, on the inside, is there an easy way to tell whether it was bored over and pistons were modified? My pistons say PM3 0.8, I am assuming these are stock, but I couldn't find any info to confirm that. Thanks.
 

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The bore is the same in all 3 blocks you listed. The intake manifolds are different, with the A6 and B7 being very similar. His setup will run better than a stock d15b7.

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And that makes it possible to put d16a1 pistons in a 1.5 block. The bore of the B7 and th A6 is the same, so the crank is what makes the A6 a 1.6. i knew the A6 cam made a big difference though. Figured the ECU changes made so difference as well.
 

· D-Series Destruction Master
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And that makes it possible to put d16a1 pistons in a 1.5 block. The bore of the B7 and th A6 is the same, so the crank is what makes the A6 a 1.6. i knew the A6 cam made a big difference though. Figured the ECU changes made so difference as well.

Stroke, rod length, deck height.

D16A6
Bore: 75mm
Stroke: 90mm
Deck height: 212mm
Rod length: 137mm

D15B2/7
Bore: 75mm
Stroke: 84.5mm
Deck height: 207mm
Rod length: 134mm
 

· D-Series Destruction Master
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When I was scavenging for the MPFI swap pieces I snatched a D16A6 manifold (I think) which I was planning on using. Decent used parts are hard to come by where I live, but I will keep that ZC in mind for sure and browse through For Sale forums. Thanks. Now question, my block is fairly clean, on the inside, is there an easy way to tell whether it was bored over and pistons were modified? My pistons say PM3 0.8, I am assuming these are stock, but I couldn't find any info to confirm that. Thanks.

d16Z6
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
any updates?
Nothing so far. Spent a great deal of time, and probably health, cleaning up the block, so it better works once I get to it. This weekend I will have the time to take a look at pistons and bearings to see if they are in a good shape, and to specs. If they are - I will move on to the head.

P.S. Engine GUNK cleaner - foamy one - is ridiculously toxic to breathe but it does the job. The non-foamy cleaner is pretty much diesel or part washer in a can. Will get you high but works like a champ in getting grease off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Slowly but surely...

I finally took the block apart and cleaned the heck out of it. Next week I will pick up some gauges and calibrating tools so I can start putting it together. Another little thing that I found missing from this supposedly "pro" build - missing o-ring in oil pump.

Pistons will be cleaned soon, and since pistons rings appear to be in like new conditions I will try to salvage those.

Here is actual 1st thing I put together in this build (I am starting small...), main bearing cap with main bearings. I cleaned this sucker myself. Why o why these things have so many voids and notches? =(

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How do you mean voids and notches?
There is just so many tight spaces to stick your fingers, brushes and sponges. It make s cleaning so much difficult.

Let's see the Block. More Pics.
Be careful what you wish for... ;-) Pictures and Photoshop is one thing I KNOW about. LOL

According to the original builder, rings and bearings are supposed to be new, that is why I considered reusing them. Do they look new to you? I've never held piston in my hand before this so you guys and the rest of the net are my reference...

On the side note; if I have to change rings and bearings, and cylinders were supposedly bored over, and pistons oversized, I should figure out what kind of bore and piston size were applied, correct? Great, now I am into engine forensics.

Thanks for checking it out, guys.











 

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ES1 Civic
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Coming along quite nicely. Me likey.
 
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