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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys im new to the forum here just found out about it today from a friend. and also to the honda world used to be a nissan driver but there to much of a pita lol . so i picked up an 89 wagovan :) i love this car and im not sure why lol. i think its because its rare in this area i live in and ive only seen one lol and i love haveing something that no one else has ( or wants for this matter lol) But anyway to the point. when i picked the car up the guy before me was running straight lucas addetive in it because the rings are so bad and ive continued to do the same i tried oil and pretty much poored right back out of the exhaust and was fouling plugs like crazy so i went back to the lucas lol.

but i picked up another d15b2 entire motor that had 93k and just installed new head gasket timing all that happy stuff so she should be worthly. eventually im gonna do a z6 head and send the bottom end that is currently in the out to be built for boost. all my friends say that i wouldnt be able to build this motor up a little and be able to have some fun with it so im going to keep it oringinal out of spite lol i like to be able to prove people wrong plus its my dd so after all the hell the motor in the car has gone trough and it still runs iit gives me a lot of faith in this particular motor.

so i was wondering if there were any detailes posts out there of a swap of d15b2 to a d15b2 lol i know its simple but i only have a day off of work and would like to have the swap done correctly in the first shot before this motor finally takes a poo on me. so basicsly id just like to have something to follow cuz people make mistakes and my brother and i will be doin it so a guide would be awesome so that it gets done right on the first shot :fingersx: .

thanks in advance guys!!

ive been researching this for a few days and havent found anything for the direct swap probly cuz its so dam easy but like i said i only have a day off of work so im hoping for no mistakes thanks!!
 

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91 Civic Hatch
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151 Posts
Since your staying with the same exact engine (literally) all you have to do is swap out the longblock.
Longblock = valve cover to oil pan, sometimes includes transmission.

Everything is literally plug and play, I dont think you will run into any issues other then dealing with tough bolts here and there as you remove stuff from the old longblock to put on the new longblock :)

I've never done a full engine swap yet, I have one planned for my VW and already have a fresh longblock for it. As far as I know its just a matter of stripping the intake and exhaust manifolds from the old block, unplugging any and all sensors (label these for easy re-install) attached to the block and undoing any transmission linkages, lifting the engine slightly with a jack or engine crane, undoing the engine mounts, then up up and away! CAREFULLY raise the engine and tranny from the car then remove the tranny from the bad engine and put it on the new one, then reinstall it the reverse of the way it came out....
There may be a way to pull the longblock without removing the transmission from the engine bay, but it would probably be a pain in the ass... hell I dont know tho lol.

Its all a matter of time, tools, and a helping hand is nice to have around during it all.
 

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I have a 91 hatch and I can pop the engine/trans out in about 1.5hrs. Its very simple. I've have mine out 5x! lol. Anyways, things of interest that you may want to research being that this is your first:
-how to pop the ball joints quickly and effectively(i use the 1/2" wrench technique)
Popping front lower balljoints & other random observations - Honda-Tech
-bitch pin removal. I just pound it out with a slightly smaller diameter piece of metal, but this is a major holdup on newbies
*In my opinion, just unhook the harness from the fusebox and pull it out with the motor and swap it when the old motor is on the floor next to the new motor.
*This is a GREAT time to change those "worn" axel seals, they'll like $15 for the set, DO IT!!! Good luck and dont forget to USE JACKSTANDS!
 

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Oh, and the speedo cable is on the tranny, make sure you get it before pulling the engine or it'll get broken or worse. It has a clip that slides in there to hold it in, its roughly directly below your throttle body straight down on the trans!
 

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1989 crx
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If I were you I wouldn't even mess with the "bitch pin". All you have to do is just undo the shift knob/bolts and just drop the whole shift-linkage. That's how I do it and I thinks it's less work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks alot for the replies guys im probly gonna try to request a couple days of next week and most likely do the swap then. hopefully everything gos as planned. thanks a lot
 

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If I were you I wouldn't even mess with the "bitch pin". All you have to do is just undo the shift knob/bolts and just drop the whole shift-linkage. That's how I do it and I thinks it's less work.
I agree, unless A) you have a tool specifically for it, or even a punch set, or B) it's been out before; a little bit loose-er-er than the years of settlement they usually have before we touch it.

It's just one less thing to fight with.. interior panels, subframe/ground pinch, etc... I could have it out in my CRX in about 5 min, and that's including jacking up the car....

-Andrew
 
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