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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 89 CRX that I am swapping. everything is bolted up right. I kept the old intake manifold so that I didn't have to convert it over to MPFI. I had to do some wiring to get the z6 dizzy to connect. But it still wont start, is there a way to get the old dizzy to bolt on? PLEASE HELP!
 

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The OBD1 distributor won't work. You need to use your distributor, which won't line up right but can be made to work. Be more specific on what you're using. Head, block, intake, ecu.
 

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93 DelSol S, 95 DelSol Si, 01 Odyssey EX, 04 CRV EX
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The OBD1 distributor won't work. You need to use your distributor, which won't line up right but can be made to work. Be more specific on what you're using. Head, block, intake, ecu.
^^^^^


I personally recomme nd the mpfi swap, and conversion to obd1. If you follow the correct instructions for the correct year when you do the conversion, you add few wires, and an eld to keep a code from coming up.

But even mpfi from dpfi isn't too difficult either, jusyt do the research before hacking into it like most do....

Most of the connectors can be de pinned, and pinned back into the new connectors.

The conversion harnesses available, simplify the job immensely.

The sensors in the dizzy work differently between the ecu's, different signal pattern, etc.
Most of the physical sensors are very similar.

The most important factor:
DO NOT USE the WRONG ecu on an engine it wasn't designed to run.... this practice kills engines. I've seen plenty of customers drive a b20 or a gsr on a p28.... the timing in it is a big deal in causing catalyst and engine harm over time... all becaus e its a "p28".

So, I HIGHLY recommend the obd1 conversion.... to properly run the motor.
If you choose obd2, you should tune yoir engine on a tunable obd0 ecu.

Good luck with the swap! I loved doing several conversions on <91' crx's and civics. Each one was its own challenge.

In the end, my preferred way, was an obd1 engine harness, ecu, main relay, fuse panel, fusebox and dash-side harness. Just cut and splice the new cluster wires to old connectors cut from the obd0,, feed the harness through the firewall as it is in the obd1, and adapt the leftover things like ignition, fuel pump power, etc. It took a while to prep the harnesses, but was an awesome result.

I need to see if I still have pictures of that car. We ended up changing everything from an obd1 donor car, but keeping the oem dash and cluster in the ef.
 

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MPFI is the way to go. DPFI is for gas mileage, take it from me I hate wiring and was scared shitless on doing a MPFI swap, but with all the write ups out there it was so easy to convert to MPFI. Good luck and take your time!
 

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93 DelSol S, 95 DelSol Si, 01 Odyssey EX, 04 CRV EX
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I am using the stock intake and ecu on a d15b1 block with a z6 head.
You won't properly make it work properly without ecu/tune, and conversion to accept the correct hardware as stated above.

If you hack the obd0 dizzy to fit, it will run, yes, but not correct and will cause engine damage over time.. so, I don't know what else to say past that.
 

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The OBD1 distributor won't work. You need to use your distributor, which won't line up right but can be made to work. Be more specific on what you're using. Head, block, intake, ecu.
^^^^^


I personally recomme nd the mpfi swap, and conversion to obd1. If you follow the correct instructions for the correct year when you do the conversion, you add few wires, and an eld to keep a code from coming up.

But even mpfi from dpfi isn't too difficult either, jusyt do the research before hacking into it like most do....

Most of the connectors can be de pinned, and pinned back into the new connectors.

The conversion harnesses available, simplify the job immensely.

The sensors in the dizzy work differently between the ecu's, different signal pattern, etc.
Most of the physical sensors are very similar.

The most important factor:
DO NOT USE the WRONG ecu on an engine it wasn't designed to run.... this practice kills engines. I've seen plenty of customers drive a b20 or a gsr on a p28.... the timing in it is a big deal in causing catalyst and engine harm over time... all becaus e its a "p28".

So, I HIGHLY recommend the obd1 conversion.... to properly run the motor.
If you choose obd2, you should tune yoir engine on a tunable obd0 ecu.

Good luck with the swap! I loved doing several conversions on <91' crx's and civics. Each one was its own challenge.

In the end, my preferred way, was an obd1 engine harness, ecu, main relay, fuse panel, fusebox and dash-side harness. Just cut and splice the new cluster wires to old connectors cut from the obd0,, feed the harness through the firewall as it is in the obd1, and adapt the leftover things like ignition, fuel pump power, etc. It took a while to prep the harnesses, but was an awesome result.

I need to see if I still have pictures of that car. We ended up changing everything from an obd1 donor car, but keeping the oem dash and cluster in the ef.
MPFI is the way to go. DPFI is for gas mileage, take it from me I hate wiring and was scared shitless on doing a MPFI swap, but with all the write ups out there it was so easy to convert to MPFI. Good luck and take your time!
What's the point of a Z6 head if you are still using the DPFI? What ECU would you even use?
You won't properly make it work properly without ecu/tune, and conversion to accept the correct hardware as stated above.

If you hack the obd0 dizzy to fit, it will run, yes, but not correct and will cause engine damage over time.. so, I don't know what else to say past that.
You have all the guidance you need. Now your 2 options are either do it right like stated above.

Or

Do it wrong and deal with the consequences

Should be simple enough./
 

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You won't properly make it work properly without ecu/tune, and conversion to accept the correct hardware as stated above.

If you hack the obd0 dizzy to fit, it will run, yes, but not correct and will cause engine damage over time.. so, I don't know what else to say past that.
This, i wouldnt think it would run the best with this ecu without some sort of tuning involved?
 

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97 honda HX-07 STI
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First off the Z6 head is a Good performing head. Second you will need to chip your ECU for it to work. COrrect me if I am wrong guys. was it P28. And yea there is wiring involved. But once it is done it will be a fun car considering your car weighs very little and ECUs are cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
okay, so I got it all on and it sounds like it wants to start. I think the timing is off, any good tips on how to do the timing?
 

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okay, so I got it all on and it sounds like it wants to start. I think the timing is off, any good tips on how to do the timing?
Good times. Nice thing is once you get it going you can tune it by ear as far as timming adjustment and Ohhhh so easy. One thing as a side note. I had an adjustable Cam Gear on mine. Mine is a D15B7 With Z6 head OBD1 swap with AEM adjustable Cam gear. And not so complete Shade tree exhaust. However that is coming soon then I am gonna find a Donner Z6 head Gasket Match port the intake and exhaust side and have Y8 exhaust springs installed. Then Port the Intake and runners install,high flow fuel rail,slightly larger fuel injectors and 60mm TB and tune maybe a stage 1 cam. Not sure yet...
 

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With a timing light, who knows if any of the marks are going to mean anything with the Z6 head though.
What kind of block are you running again. You dissy can only be 180 or in once the car fires and runs adjust it by ear. I thought it would be hard to install and fine tune the timming but it really is not. Are you running a stock Timming Gear
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What kind of block are you running again. You dissy can only be 180 or in once the car fires and runs adjust it by ear. I thought it would be hard to install and fine tune the timming but it really is not. Are you running a stock Timming Gear
I am running the d15b1 block. I thought timing was gonna be harder, but as I fine tune it it's really not.
 
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