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So I've seen this question asked a million times, and answered a different way every time. I have a JDM obd2 D15b non-vtec. I wanted to know if anyone here has PERSONALLY measured the rod length. I find nothing but misinformation about this motor and it has costed me alot of time and money.

Before anyone tells me sEaRcH BrO!!! I have, for WEEKS. I've read just about every post there is about it, and like I said, it's a different answer every time. So if there is anyone that has first hand knowledge I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Please ignore my zip ties 😂

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Seeing as this is the intro section I guess I should post a intro too huh? What a douche!

  1. So I have a 95 cx hatch, it was my first car, got it with a stock D15B7 when I lived in Cali, no AC or PS, drove it halfway across the country to Texas in the middle of summer, packed down with all my shit. Boosted it, spun a rod bearing. Car sat for 2 years. $ problems🤷‍♂️ recently got a d15b ⬆ wanna actually build it for boost this time, and here we are
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head matches what appears to be d16y7 casting

I would favor it to be like the USDM d15z1, aka, long rod, short piston. Rouhgly, 137mm rods with 27mm CH pistons.


To find out, here is a very simple way to at least see if you have the short or tall deck block.

Look above transmission at cylinder head and where it mounts to block.

If head is FLUSH to the bellhousing top, its a short deck motor.

If it is approx 10mm higher, it is a tall deck block.


I would put money on it if it is a tall deck, that you have 137mm rods.


You would still then need to find pistons. Short CH pistons are hard to come by for D series. Else I would have a set in my spare d17 motor right now.
 

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Actually, now that I think about it, if you have the tall motor, the smaller stroke with 137mm pistons means you might be able to use standard d16 a6/z6/y8/etc.. pistons.
 

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whoops. 207 versus 212, not 200 vs 212

But something to measure none the less

foggy memory on my part
 
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