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136441

Can anyone tell me what the valve is on the far right with line going to egr and intake manifold . Engine is running great but if I just hook line to egr valve will not run but runs perfect with lines blocked . Running P2J-003 ecu if that matters .
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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red google translate says
"exhaust recirculation solenoid control valve"

green
"control solenoid valves cleaned evaporating emsi"
(English says evap)

f58d64bf-6be7-456f-843b-7fc196d1c799-png.png
 

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Discussion Starter #3
red google translate says
"exhaust recirculation solenoid control valve"

green
"control solenoid valves cleaned evaporating emsi"
(English says evap)

View attachment 136443
Thanks for fast reply , now if I can find that part or something that will work in its place . I don’t think I’m going into lean burn mode but haven’t checked mpg yet .
 

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'91 CRX DX, D15B (D15Z7), DX L3
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Pfft wut. That's the closest Honda dealer to my dad's house... Bought parts there a few times. You work there? I feel like I've asked that before. o_O

Here's a parts importer page with the part you're after: 36190-P2J-003
I've bought stuff from them before - they're Japanese, so try to be halfway polite. ^_^

FYI, it's not your typical on/off solenoid valve like you use for the evap canister. It's more like the IACV, in that the ECU rapidly pulses it to send different levels of vacuum to the EGR valve. If you've ever heard a humming noise coming from your intake while the engine's idling, you're (probably) hearing that pulsing in action. Different amounts of vacuum make the EGR valve open just the right amount for conditions, and the ECU keeps an eye on that using the TPS-looking thing on top (EGR lift sensor).
Giving the EGR valve full vacuum makes it open all the way, which sucks a bunch of exhaust back through the intake. At anything but highway speeds, that's going to make your engine run rough and/or stall.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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no lol Im just sorta special and tried to get him in touch with the "closest" dealer lol
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Pfft wut. That's the closest Honda dealer to my dad's house... Bought parts there a few times. You work there? I feel like I've asked that before. o_O

Here's a parts importer page with the part you're after: 36190-P2J-003
I've bought stuff from them before - they're Japanese, so try to be halfway polite. ^_^

FYI, it's not your typical on/off solenoid valve like you use for the evap canister. It's more like the IACV, in that the ECU rapidly pulses it to send different levels of vacuum to the EGR valve. If you've ever heard a humming noise coming from your intake while the engine's idling, you're (probably) hearing that pulsing in action. Different amounts of vacuum make the EGR valve open just the right amount for conditions, and the ECU keeps an eye on that using the TPS-looking thing on top (EGR lift sensor).
Giving the EGR valve full vacuum makes it open all the way, which sucks a bunch of exhaust back through the intake. At anything but highway speeds, that's going to make your engine run rough and/or stall.
Thanks for info .
 

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98 Civic DX w/JDM Z7, B000 M/T, nothing fancy, just functionally sound
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Pfft wut. That's the closest Honda dealer to my dad's house... Bought parts there a few times. You work there? I feel like I've asked that before. o_O

Here's a parts importer page with the part you're after: 36190-P2J-003
I've bought stuff from them before - they're Japanese, so try to be halfway polite. ^_^

FYI, it's not your typical on/off solenoid valve like you use for the evap canister. It's more like the IACV, in that the ECU rapidly pulses it to send different levels of vacuum to the EGR valve. If you've ever heard a humming noise coming from your intake while the engine's idling, you're (probably) hearing that pulsing in action. Different amounts of vacuum make the EGR valve open just the right amount for conditions, and the ECU keeps an eye on that using the TPS-looking thing on top (EGR lift sensor).
Giving the EGR valve full vacuum makes it open all the way, which sucks a bunch of exhaust back through the intake. At anything but highway speeds, that's going to make your engine run rough and/or stall.
Hi, I've been trying to solve this same issue and have what may be a possible alternative to consider, but I have not been able to find the tech data anywhere to answer the question. The JDM engine I am swapping in did not even include this solenoid part, so I've been trying to find possible solutions. Since the USDM HX manual uses a variation on the EGR that is a 5-wire and uses no vacuum or additional 2-wire actuated valve, do you know if it is combining the 3-wire sensor (used on the HX auto version and D15Z7) and also sensing and providing the 2-wire data that the 36190-P2J-003 part is providing through the other two pins?

If that was the case, then repinning to the 5-wire HX manual EGR and deleting the 36190-p2j-003 could be a far easier and cheaper solution, since you can still easily find those EGR valves new. Also, locating random USDM HX 5-speeds for such parts has been way easier than locating the auto trans versions. I have also pulled the Accord and Protege versions of the 2-wire solenoid 36190-p2j-003 from the local yards and am working to get the repins and wiring finished in the next couple weeks, but wondering if that HX manual EGR might be a better way to go. (FWIW I'm using the P2J-003 ecu as well with a 5-spd B000. Using a 98 CA emissions HX manual harness to swap into a DX. The engine arrived with an auto IM and I swapped it out for a correct P2J manual IM w/2-pin IACV.)
 

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Since the USDM HX manual uses a variation on the EGR that is a 5-wire and uses no vacuum or additional 2-wire actuated valve, do you know if it is combining the 3-wire sensor (used on the HX auto version and D15Z7) and also sensing and providing the 2-wire data that the 36190-p2j-003 part is providing through the other two pins?
I don't know, though I wondered the same thing. You could try hunting down service manuals of models with the two valve designs and comparing diagnostic tests. I doubt it's as simple as soldering on the newer connector, but it wouldn't hurt to look.
The 2-wire valve is controlled by a PWM signal, similar to the IACV. Varying the pulse width lets the ECU control how far the frequency valve opens, rather than just having a fully open or fully closed state as you would with a vanilla solenoid valve. That variability lets the ECU adjust the vacuum pressure leaving the valve, which is fed to the actuator on the EGR valve and in turn controls the amount of EGR valve lift. The 3-wire sensor on top of the EGR valve gives the ECU feedback on the amount of valve lift. If it's not enough, it increases the pulse width -> frequency valve opens further -> more vacuum -> actuator pulls harder -> EGR valve lifts further. It's a control loop.
The engine arrived with an auto IM and I swapped it out for a correct P2J manual IM w/2-pin IACV.)
I had the same experience, but got annoyed after an ebay mix-up and drilled the passages for the manual IACV.
 

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EGR systems cannot be combined. PWM is completely different to adjustable voltage.

PWM is generally a full voltage zap at frequency, the 5wire EGR setups generally were variable voltage.



Need a controlling valve? Hop into the nearest junkyard (or search ebay for picture references) and find a 94-97 accord dx/lx 2.2, or possibly the ULEV models of teh 98-02 F23 accords.

No guarantees, but at least you will have something to do at a junkyard. Learn a bit, see how Honda liked to reuse technologies for several years, rather than redesigning something every generation. Fitment might not be 100% identical, but you figure things out.

Example, my 2001 Honda Insight has fucking stupid high prices on things like TPS sensor, MAP sensor, and EGR valve. Well, 96-00 d16 TPS and MPA interchange electrically, yet physically are mounted different. EGR from 98-02 v6 works like a charm too. V6 is 5wire, not what you want though.
 

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98 Civic DX w/JDM Z7, B000 M/T, nothing fancy, just functionally sound
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I don't know, though I wondered the same thing. You could try hunting down service manuals of models with the two valve designs and comparing diagnostic tests. I doubt it's as simple as soldering on the newer connector, but it wouldn't hurt to look.
The 2-wire valve is controlled by a PWM signal, similar to the IACV. Varying the pulse width lets the ECU control how far the frequency valve opens, rather than just having a fully open or fully closed state as you would with a vanilla solenoid valve. That variability lets the ECU adjust the vacuum pressure leaving the valve, which is fed to the actuator on the EGR valve and in turn controls the amount of EGR valve lift. The 3-wire sensor on top of the EGR valve gives the ECU feedback on the amount of valve lift. If it's not enough, it increases the pulse width -> frequency valve opens further -> more vacuum -> actuator pulls harder -> EGR valve lifts further. It's a control loop.

I had the same experience, but got annoyed after an ebay mix-up and drilled the passages for the manual IACV.
Thanks for the reply and describing the process the ecu is managing. That's very helpful and it makes more sense in terms of how the two differ. I'll try to get the 2-wire valve I pulled from an Accord working as an alternative. That seems like the only decent option. I saw some crusty used 36190-p2j-003 valves for sale online in Moscow for 1,000 rubles, which is cheap, like 14 bucks, but it seems like real one-way kind of crapshoot. Who knows what shipping, etc. would turn into.
 

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EGR systems cannot be combined. PWM is completely different to adjustable voltage.

PWM is generally a full voltage zap at frequency, the 5wire EGR setups generally were variable voltage.



Need a controlling valve? Hop into the nearest junkyard (or search ebay for picture references) and find a 94-97 accord dx/lx 2.2, or possibly the ULEV models of teh 98-02 F23 accords.

No guarantees, but at least you will have something to do at a junkyard. Learn a bit, see how Honda liked to reuse technologies for several years, rather than redesigning something every generation. Fitment might not be 100% identical, but you figure things out.

Example, my 2001 Honda Insight has fucking stupid high prices on things like TPS sensor, MAP sensor, and EGR valve. Well, 96-00 d16 TPS and MPA interchange electrically, yet physically are mounted different. EGR from 98-02 v6 works like a charm too. V6 is 5wire, not what you want though.
Thanks for describing the difference betwen the two. I was hesistant to try doing this because it seemed like the ecu management was potentially going to be programmed differently. This seems to confirm that. Any idea why the USDM A/T HX uses PWM valves and the M/T HX uses variable voltage valves, yet the JDM and European D15Z7 models use PWM for both? It does seem odd that they would have gone through the trouble to only redesign the ecu of the M/T HX with the variable voltage valve. That seems like a lot to go through for just one transmission option but JDM cars didn't. Maybe some kind of emissions issue? IDK
 

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Any idea why the USDM A/T HX uses PWM valves [...] the JDM and European D15Z7 models use PWM
The HX A/T was a CVT transmission, just like the D15B (D15Z7) A/T models. Perhaps the CVT needed an analog (variable voltage) output that got used for EGR on the other models. Or maybe they just copy-and-pasted a lot of code, and the vacuum valve went along with it.
 
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