Hi trying to find the best basis for my build...i know the 1.5 has the best rod stroke ratio of the bunch...but does the added displacement of the others make them a better foundation for a build? ( if i used the d17 it would be a d17 stroker in a z6 block) any thoughts of this topic would be greatly appreciated as having a hard time deciding which way to go with my build...prefer to stay n/a if possible (not planning on building a drag car or anything just something with more balls than stock while still being very reliable) thanks
d15 vs d16 vs d17
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the d17 would have more trq then the d15... if you got the time and the money id do the d17 stroker idea. thats what i plan to do too. also you could get a set of pistons that maybe bump the CR to around 10.5:1 or 11:1 which will run on 93 octane tuned no prob. to even help with the trq you could get a mild cam.
you know if you do the D17 idea you will need the crank/rods/oil pump/pistons from a D17 or similar like after market. if you get aftermarket pistons, this is a plus because they could be forged and are usually lighter then a stock piston, so right there it frees up some energy.
though i do have a question though. since the crank side of the rod is the same size as the D16 and the B18B(LS rods) couldnt the LS rods be used because it has the same wrist pin size of 21mm i think? Block notching will have to be done anyway if using the D17 rods so why not upgrade lol. though on the B18 rods they are bigger on the crank side than the d16 rod or d17, so .022 has to be removed from each side to fit the crank.
for the head, if your OBD1 keep the Z6 head too then. of course a Y8 head could be used and will bump up the CR a little more, but its what evers easier for you.
btw where can you get a d17 crank and stuff? i searched on ebay, and local yards via the web on www.car-part.com and i couldnt find anything
you know if you do the D17 idea you will need the crank/rods/oil pump/pistons from a D17 or similar like after market. if you get aftermarket pistons, this is a plus because they could be forged and are usually lighter then a stock piston, so right there it frees up some energy.
though i do have a question though. since the crank side of the rod is the same size as the D16 and the B18B(LS rods) couldnt the LS rods be used because it has the same wrist pin size of 21mm i think? Block notching will have to be done anyway if using the D17 rods so why not upgrade lol. though on the B18 rods they are bigger on the crank side than the d16 rod or d17, so .022 has to be removed from each side to fit the crank.
for the head, if your OBD1 keep the Z6 head too then. of course a Y8 head could be used and will bump up the CR a little more, but its what evers easier for you.
btw where can you get a d17 crank and stuff? i searched on ebay, and local yards via the web on www.car-part.com and i couldnt find anything
was reading a thread about this on honda tech they mentioned something about the possibility of using ls rods? i believe as they have the same pin diameter.. am considering the d17 stroker just debating if the cost to gains are worth it or i should just settle with either a d15 or a d16 instead
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yeah, im not sure how much it would cost to swap the d17 parts in cause i cant find d17 crank lol...
if you can find it cheap enough then yeah. though the crank needs to be milled to fit the d16 crank pulley im not sure what kind of gains there are swapping this crank in and stuff?
if you can find it cheap enough then yeah. though the crank needs to be milled to fit the d16 crank pulley im not sure what kind of gains there are swapping this crank in and stuff?
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im looking for a D17 block myself...im thinking of boring out the d17 to 81mm,using a d15b crank and b18/20 rods..im wondering if the b20 rods have the same journal as the b18/z6's...anyone know?...im hoping the stroke diffrence with the d15b crank and the deck height of the d17 would equal out with the b20's...i dunno...we will see....it it all works out ill end up with a d18 that can rev out at 8000 rpm....of course the main bearing will be fixed....i also currently doing reasearch on F series motors...f20a w/ f23 crank - F24? ...and does anyone know the rod length and big end journal size for a K24?...maybe there would be a way to use K24 parts..who knows
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I read the whole thing, 5mm spacers to correct the main journal isen't the best idea. A B20 is just an overbored B18, block, crank, and rods are all the same. I know you won't be boreing a D block to 81mm, even sleeved there's not going to be anything left of the sleeve.
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