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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been helping a friend on his setup in his AE and here is his numbers from a couple days ago. This setup was picked from multiple builds from this forum and this build would not have been possible without this forum and plethora of information I have absorbed from it. PERIOD. This is a street driven car with track weekends and is dialed back to 12 psi for the street.




Setup is 4AGZE block with stock rods and plus+1mm OEM GZE pistons with TRD head gasket. ARP headstuds and rod bolts. Custom equal length manifold, 2.5" downpipe and straight through exhaust WITH cat. 2.5" IC'r piping, with spearco front mount. DSM 1 st gen crushed BOV set to bypass. Megasquirt I v2.2 with 550cc injectors. K n N intake filter. Walbro 255 lph. HKS 256 cams with HKS valve springs.

Turbo is TD05H small 16G with a ported 14B hotisde. I rebuilt the turbo for the build.

He has been considering larger tubing on both exhaust and intercooler but I think he is going to enjoy what he has for the time being. Later on upgrade the turbo he has to something larger (which is already in the work, another frankenturbo to say the least). He has considered adding a small shot of Nawz to hit 400whp.

What do you guys think? Suggestions on the setup?

I have something similiar in mind but plan on using a 7AFE shortblock and running forged rods and OEM GZE pistons. My CR will come in around 9.5:1 and I plan on using a modified K04 from a MazdaSpeed3. Consequently the K04 I am talking about has the same sized inducer as the small 16G as well as the T3 60 trim, GT2560R, TD04 19T, and IHI STI turbo hmmmm think that is a coincidence??, and uses a smaller turbine. I am hoping for better response without a sacrifice of top end performance. The turbo does pretty good in the MS3 but falls around 5500 RPM's. I am hoping the .5 liter displacement difference offsets this as well as clipping the turbine as I have done. I want to crack 300 lb ft more then I want to crack 300whp. However I don't want it to be like a truck motor either LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
305whp at 7700 RPM's and 236 lb-ft at 4750RPM's.

Can you not see the dyno?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What do you want pictures of? I may be able to do an underhood shot but he may get pissy with me of and outside shot. Pisses me off as he only hunts down Mustangs and Camaros to pester (he can walk a new Camaro SS if he hooks and does not smoke the skins).


He is not a member on this forum though but some of his friends are I think. He wants the tubo to spool about 800 RPM's sooner or trade in the turbo for something that spools the same but makes bigger top end. Shit I would be stoked with this dyno.
 

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セックス大好&#
'93 240sex
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22psi and only 305hp? Hits boost @ 4.3k and Revs all the way to 7700? Seems like somethings not right no me, even if its still a 1.6L. Maybe not, idk, im tired. Mo' pichers plz
 

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Discussion Starter #8
305 rwhp which makes a big difference. Stock 4AGE in a MR2 makes about 105rwhp. In the AE86 they make about 88-90 rwhp. The RWD trans setup robs about double whzt transverse mounts setups do. The diference is 12-15whp. A cammed 4AGE with all yhe bolt on fixings make about 150rwhp on the MR2 and on the 125-130 rwhp on the AE.

Or this setup would make about 340-350rwhp. That is maxing a small 16G out on a 1.6 liter. I was wondering if you noticed it was a small 16G?
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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Bigger cams, or cam gears to tweak the ICV and EVO timing.

EXCELLENT Torque "curve."

Move up to a 3" downpipe and that will help spool time.

Smaller turbines will choke sooner. You'll be surprised at how well Honda heads flow compared to other makes, and if a turbo dies at 5500RPM on a 2.3L Maz-turd, it's going to be almost as bad on a D.

I would be tempted to drive that car, and I don't usually like those things.
 

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1999 Civic hatch
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22psi and only 305hp? Hits boost @ 4.3k and Revs all the way to 7700? Seems like somethings not right no me, even if its still a 1.6L. Maybe not, idk, im tired. Mo' pichers plz
Its a small turbo man. 22psi on this is a lot less than 22psi with a different turbo.




And yes OP, we need pics of the engine bay.
 

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86 MR2
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305 rwhp which makes a big difference. Stock 4AGE in a MR2 makes about 105rwhp. In the AE86 they make about 88-90 rwhp. The RWD trans setup robs about double whzt transverse mounts setups do. The diference is 12-15whp. A cammed 4AGE with all yhe bolt on fixings make about 150rwhp on the MR2 and on the 125-130 rwhp on the AE.

Or this setup would make about 340-350rwhp. That is maxing a small 16G out on a 1.6 liter. I was wondering if you noticed it was a small 16G?
This I found very true but at the same time quite funny through researching the 4ag sites online. Many people who go an buy an 86 will usually do the 20v swap without realizing the amount of headaches needed to do it, plus they still get robbed more than the corolla/geo/mr2 guys and its literally a drop in swap for transversal mount guys. Funniest part is most who do this state their reason as "Takumi has a 20v, therefore if I have one, my 86 will kick ass!" Also interested in the setup here
 

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So FUGGING TRUE!!! ^^^^

I have no idea why they spend gobs of money on a 20V swap which is NOT a direct drop in swap like say a B16A into a 95 Civic. A lot of work is involved and at the end of the day they are still not as fast as many other cars.
Ive even driven GT-S 86's and they feel only slightly faster than a D16Y8.

Ive never heard a guy say Takumi has the swap so they must have it. Its the same thing as most Honda guys who swap to B. Its been done before and they rather just swap without knowing that F/I is much cheaper alternative that pumps out gobs more power than an extra cam.
 

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I've had the chance to drive both a stock mr2 and a 20v swapp'd one(my current project). Difference is there, I'll admit the ls I had before was porky in the low end, but this 4age kicks its ass once vvt kicks in.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Being a Toyota guy in a Honda forum and seeing how much Toyota owners put down the Honda Guys I will say this: both forums have their posers and their originals. What I like most about this forum is the community sticks together more and shares ideas better. Not nearly as much hating here. With the Toyota crowd you get 1 that actually does something compared to 19 that talks about. It gets sickening to try to get info on those forums cause out of 50 posts I get one with good info from someone that has turned the wrench not from someone that has heard from this buddy that knew a guy that worked for this guy that owned my car 8 years ago. Then you have to fight with this dumb ass mother fuckers about what is right and wrong; seriously I watched a thread grow to over 300 posts about how many ignition cycles is in one revolution, its a fucking 4 stroke. Most questions get answered on here from personal expierence and that carries a lot more credibility with me as well as respect.

I fit more into the Honda mentality that if we screw it up then we will just have more fun fixing it and making it better. Toyota owners act like they are original but 250whp turbo street Civic done a $2k is baller original to me, even if you are flossing a Ching Chong.

Toyota owners (not all but the majority) are all about a specific look or fad. Honda owners are all about the go pedal and doing it on a budget. I fall between the two with loving the quirky look of the AE (not JDM tight Yo either) and the budget friendly sense of the D crowd.


The turbo is maxed. The small 16G uses a compressor almost identical to T3 60 trim (or GT2560, or etc). It was my honest opinion that he is pushing that bitch pretty hard and he has dialed it back considerbaly. I think he is making 232whp at 12 psi.

The reason he wants it spool faster is that his final drive puts him on a funny bubble at cruising speeds on the interstate. The car only does 70 MPH at 4K and he wants it to be locked on in boost at that RPM which his dyno says it is but he swears it is not. He says he misses the linear feel of the car when on the interstate pulling from 4K. I think he has blown a coupler or something silly from the way he is talking. I have also explained dropping it 4th and pushing the large pedal furtherest to the right.


Also the reason why most guys swap out to the 20V is the appeal of ITBs, 20V,s, VVT, and 8K-9K redline. I have owned one and it is touted at as quick 50 hp upgrade. I will say what most knowledgeable 4AGE owners have summerized: The 20V are flat but have great potential. I just don't have a deep enough pocket to see it through as it needs to be executed.

I was planning on running a ST20V head on 7AGE forged bottom end for my boost application. I planned on using a modified B16 intake manifold so I did not have to fight the ITBs. I just dont like banging the firewall to get it to work.
 

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Classic Man
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looks like theres a restriction somewhere, maybe exhaust... it does seem to spool a little slow, but 22psi is quite a bit of boost


what RPM does it spool to 12psi?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
On the dyno he was making the 12 psi at 4k in 3rd. On the interstate while cruising and he mashes it it looks like 5k.

I forgot to mention he is using an ebc that its set for 20psi on the dyno. It just peaked at 22 pounds for a moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That was the same thing I said. He is going to check everything out tomorrow though. Just makes no sense. Still pulls like all hell has broken loose after 5k though.
 
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