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1988 Honda CRX
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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to build a tall deck D16A8 DOHC, stroked and bored to 1800 or more but with longer rods, so I need to raise the deck. I can get sleeves and I can make a deck plate and I can make a copper head gasket if absolutely necessary for the biggest bore I can get in.

There are reasons I need to keep this relatively stock looking DOHC D series.

My problem is a timing belt correct length to accommodate the extra deck. Deck height and rod length will depend on belt availability.

Does anyone know sources of suitable quality belts. So far I have Gates and Powergrip I can call.

I cannot find a web page that list belts by length or number of teeth.

I think stock length Gates T130? is 1229mm

If so I need about a 1250mm belt 24mm wide unless I adapt B series pulleys everywhere then I could run a 1250 mm by 26mm wide belt.
 

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'89 CRX HF
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Look into using maybe B series belts? Maybe H series?

I would search around to see what info you can find on OEM belts from various manufacturers before going the custom route, may be time consuming, but will most likely save you money.

I know there are several other brands that use Honda t-belts on custom builds, maybe you can find one the other direction
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Ryan

That's what I am already doing, but it's a long hard search and those with data have no time to help as it's one belt only.

Sleep

Do you realise just how much work is involved in building a timing case to run the chain in oil
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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Discussion Starter #6
You want to run them dry at 8000 rpm?

Oh and out in the dirt and the mud and whatever happens their way
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
In the photo you use for your example, why can I see a crank counterweight and the front main cap and the inside of the sump and signs of oil varnish deposits and two nylon 4.6 chain guides. The nylon chain guides would quickly melt and cut up if run dry.

If it were at all possible I would gladly convert to a chain drive for reasons of confidence and durability.

On my B20B powered daily driver I broke a belt and bent valves with 50,000Km on it at Easter, then the new belt jumped a tooth 2 months later. Problem turned out to be a tight distributor overloading the belt. I would much prefer a chain drive if at all feasible, but unfortunately it is not.

Also if a chain broke at high rpm with the bonnet up and depending on a plastic cover to retain it, it could do someone a very serious injury.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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Discussion Starter #11
Finaly got an engineer instead of a sales rep at Gates

The original belt is a T132 and it is 124 teeth 76 series 24mm wide

A T247 fits a B18C2 and is the same tooth profile and pitch and is 126 teeth but 26mm wide. They also have the R version which is stronger construction for racing.

A T132 is 126 teeth by 23.8mm wide but is not HSN (high temperature)rubber.

A T895 is off a H22A4 or H22B or F22Z motor and is 126 teeth long, 24mm wide and HSN rubber. I am trying to find if they make it in racing duty.
 
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