you should use a p28 ECU. It is a OBD1 ECU. you also have to use an OBD1 conversion harness, and an OBD1 distributor. If you try to use a non-vtec ECU and just connect the v-tec to a RPM switch, It will not run that good. Reason being, is that when v-tec engages the fuel maps in the ECU change. If you run a non vtec ECU the fuel maps stay the same through the RPM range, therefore the motor will not run as good as when you are running a V-tec ECU.
True, but the stock maps are pretty rich to begin with so, it reallys not going to make that big of a deal. Get a adj FPR and raise the fuel pressure a little.
HINT, in my opion an FPR and gauge is the best mod. other then getting a tach on dx's that don't have one (vent: that's the stupid thing ever, not having a tach on a car with manual transmission)
IF you go obd1, your going to have to get a bunch of shit which will cost you a bit unless you buy used and find really really good deals. I haven't looked in a awhile, but I've never seen a p28 go for less then 130.
I've used turboedit and I like it a lot. Missed around with uberdata ( a little) and didn't like it as much. I say if you have obd0 just use obd0.
What is that turboedit activation method ?
Its in the program ?
Sorry, this is my first step, in ECU stuff.
But right now, I would have a Chipped PM6 for about 150 $. (Mine is a '88 so...)
If I put that now, and well till I get the VTEC head.
What would i need to do after that to get the VTEC to work ?
And will a the VTEC head work even if its not connected correctly ? (Like working but never engaging)
you can get a obd0 pr3 or pw0 ecu.. both are for b16's you can have them chipped/tuned with turboedit and have the knock board disabled or run the ecu thats in the car and get a vafc or do what the other guy suggested...
maybe even using your stock ecu chip it and have them put low cam maps up until 4800 then high cam maps after 4800 and have ur engagement point at 4800 with a rpm switch.. or whatver you want your vtec to engage at.. put the maps in
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