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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, i've finished wiring up my d16z5 swap in my previously twincarb shuttle. I've done this by putting a small part of a crx wire loom into a shuttle (from engine harness to ecu, that sensor under the dash and the main fuel relay and I've wired up all remaining wires accordingly).

What is working now:
Main relay
Starter
fuelpump

However, the ecu does not work

I've checked the following:
power: the ecu is getting power from the battery at all times ( at vbu)
Power from key in position 2: The ecu gets power from IGP1 and 2 when the key is in position 2
start contact: the ecu gets signal from the STS wire when you start the car
Ground: PG1 and 2 are grounded from an existing wire that runs behind the dashboard. The main relay is also grounded from this wire and it does not have any problems. I've tried grounding PG1 and 2 separately at a different point but that does not have a different effect.
I have also checked the ecu in another car and it works fine

The only thing I see is that when I put the key in position 1 I see a small bleep from the ecu led for a short moment and then nothing. When I put the key in position 2 the same happens. However there is no check engine light on on the dashboard.

What can I do and what can I check?
 

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Ok guys, i've finished wiring up my d16z5 swap in my previously twincarb shuttle. I've done this by putting a small part of a crx wire loom into a shuttle (from engine harness to ecu, that sensor under the dash and the main fuel relay and I've wired up all remaining wires accordingly).

What is working now:
Main relay
Starter
fuelpump

However, the ecu does not work

I've checked the following:
power: the ecu is getting power from the battery at all times ( at vbu)
Power from key in position 2: The ecu gets power from IGP1 and 2 when the key is in position 2
start contact: the ecu gets signal from the STS wire when you start the car
Ground: PG1 and 2 are grounded from an existing wire that runs behind the dashboard. The main relay is also grounded from this wire and it does not have any problems. I've tried grounding PG1 and 2 separately at a different point but that does not have a different effect.
I have also checked the ecu in another car and it works fine

The only thing I see is that when I put the key in position 1 I see a small bleep from the ecu led for a short moment and then nothing. When I put the key in position 2 the same happens. However there is no check engine light on on the dashboard.

What can I do and what can I check?
Hi, I'm interested in how you did this. I'm also in the process of a swap. Did you just use the Z6 engine harness, add in the main relay and run separate wires?
Which sensor under dash do u mean?
Sorry for going off topic and that i can't be of help but you are only person I found who did this. Can't find any info online.

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Have you primed the fuel system well?

Set distributor in middle of adjustment, that'll get you close to correct timing.

Verify the distributor wiring.

Not sure what all wiring you had to change.
When you get into harnesses you have to check the wire from ecu plug to end sensor plug. Just because some things plug directly in doesn't mean the wires go to the same thing. When I put a 91 CRX SI engine and ecu harness in my 90 CRX DX I had to re-pin and swap plugs on some of the fuse box plugs and chassis harness. The best way to check wiring, if factory wire and plugs, is to make sure the wires are the same color and in the same position going in and out of the plugs. Get a volt meter.

You asked.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The one flash in the ecu means its working.
Do you have spark?

Sent from my ZTE-Z990 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
Its a really short flash, not the two second one from the cluster, that one does not light up

Have you primed the fuel system well?

Set distributor in middle of adjustment, that'll get you close to correct timing.

Verify the distributor wiring.

Not sure what all wiring you had to change.
When you get into harnesses you have to check the wire from ecu plug to end sensor plug. Just because some things plug directly in doesn't mean the wires go to the same thing. When I put a 91 CRX SI engine and ecu harness in my 90 CRX DX I had to re-pin and swap plugs on some of the fuse box plugs and chassis harness. The best way to check wiring, if factory wire and plugs, is to make sure the wires are the same color and in the same position going in and out of the plugs. Get a volt meter.

You asked.
I do not have a dpfi car, but a twincarb. The only wires that needed to be connected from the ecu was the wire for the check engine light and the vss output from the cluster. Other than that the only wires I had to hook up were related to the main fuel relay (which works), cluster, fuel pump and reverse lights.

I have cleaned all grounds in the engine bay (thermostat, gear box valve cover and where it connects to the chassis) : No effect
I have checked the main relay: Works fine in all positions
I have put the ecu on another ground which I know works from other things on my car: No effect

I am getting fuel, but no spark. I have checked spark by taking out a spark plug, put it back in the spark plug wire and hold it near a grounding point. When somebody started the car nothing happened


Also, what ecu?

You asked.
PM7
 

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I didn't say YOU had a dpfi.
So... you are running a dual cab setup, or are you running mpfi?

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Discussion Starter #8
No just to clarify, I've had lots of people on diffent message boards pointing me towards dpfi-mpfi problems. But for me its carb-mpfi :)

Im gonna try to see if i get a signal from the check engine light wire, maybe the check engine light is broken in my new cluster
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is the check engine light a regular 12v signal? In that case I do not get a readout from the ecu when i put the key in position 2
 

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When you turn the key to run/on you should get a lamp test on the cluster. If you don't then you are missing a few more wires. Do you have a Chilton's, or some type of manual with the wiring diagrams for the year ecu have? There is an android app that has the ecu pinouts. Honda Database.

Verify that you have power to the distributor.
If you have a timing light, you can see if it is sending something. Hook it up and if it flashes then you are getting power through the spark plug wire, but not enough to jump the gap. Possible weak coil.

You asked.
 

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What distributor are you using? Did you verify power to it?

You asked.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, im losing interest in the car :(
Anyways, the thick black/yellow wire has 12v coming through it when the key is in position 2. Also the ignition unit works fine on my friends car
 

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When you swaped motors did you swap the entire crx engine harness into the shuttle?
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but would you need to run a resistor box to run the obd0 injectors?
Sorry, for frustration there not much info out there on this swap.
If it were me I either swap the entire dash harness and engine harness form the crx into the shuttle. Or used the crx engine harness and depin than repin the ecu plugs so they match the diagram you posted.
 
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