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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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Discussion Starter #1
it's not a d, but a B20Z.

similar enough though.

anyway, symptoms are that the car is extremely cold blooded and will stall if put into D if you don't let it warm up for about a minute when cold.

steps taken:
cleaned IACV
head was rebuilt about a year ago due to valve recession
checked IAT and CLT sensor ranges, both were correct

what would be the next thing to check? do B20Zs have an FITV to adjust?
 

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69 Posts
Your transmission line pressure is too high. When you put in in gear, it grabs too hard (not enough slip in TQ converter) causing a stall. Check for dirty atf and only use Honda atf. Better yet, do a drain and refill to get the fluid clean and your "stall when cold" would be gone.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,252 Posts
Do NOT use today's Honda ATF in older Honda trannys designed to use Dex-3 fluids.

How about lets address the 1-2 solenoids.......which are a known issue.
 

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90 CRX Si
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3,866 Posts
Mine's doing a similar thing (albeit a B20B 97 model), it will idle extremely low on startup for maybe 10-30 seconds, but will idle normal after about a minute for sure. It was bad enough I tried to hold throttle at WOT and nothing changed. If you figure it out, post back! Try checking the valves on it by the way, not that I think it would cause that big of an issue but worth a shot.

Bone, what about this solenoid? Mine has thrown a code for a trans switch a time or two, but I can't remember which nor has it had any 1-2 shifting issues.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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3,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
still having this problem - I've checked and reset the FITV, cleaned the TB, cleaned the IACV, new plugs, new cap, new rotor, reset timing (it was off ~2 degrees), backed out the idle bypass screw as far as it would go, replaced the TB gasket (it was brittle and broke when I pulled the TB off)


next step is changing the ATF this weekend.

it DOES have weird shifting issues, but they seem to be on the 2-3 shift where it will hold 2nd far longer than it should, nothing odd on the 1-2
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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3,983 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
since the last update on this: still happening. still EXTREMELY frustrating.

what else I've done that hasn't fixed it:
changed ATF to fresh new honda ATF
swapped IACV with known-good from my del sol (and kept it there, since the sol seems to like it just fine)
did a compression test 1-4 180, 150, 160, 165
tightened the throttle cable (it had some slack)

is there anything else anyone can recommend? it really just seems like the ECU isn't keeping the IACV open enough, but all the sensors checked out
could it be that one of the cams is a tooth off but the other is okay? would I still post decent compression if that were true?
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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Discussion Starter #9
bump, does noone have any other ideas for this dick CRV?

(seriously it's name is "the Honda Dickler" now)
 

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Dude! What's up with your compression? Do a wet comp test and see if that changes. If your cams were off you would have power issues.
 

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90 crx si/96 accord
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788 Posts
The only experience I've had with vehicles dying when shifting into gear was in a 04 Chevy k 3/4 w/6.0

The issues was cam/crank signal drop out. Most people don't have access to a lab scope....might have to bring it to a legit shop.....just my .02

Good luck
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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Discussion Starter #14
Dude! What's up with your compression? Do a wet comp test and see if that changes. If your cams were off you would have power issues.
motor has 220k on it, I'm not tooooo shocked the compression is a little low. I'll try a wet compression test next time I get a chance to work on it.

hmm, I'll try swapping the TDC and CKP sensors from another spare parts dizzy I've got around to see if that makes a change/(seriously, it pays in time and effort to scoop every cheap obd1/obd2 dizzy you can find just to shuffle parts around!!)
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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10,488 Posts
still having this problem - I've checked and reset the FITV, cleaned the TB, cleaned the IACV, new plugs, new cap, new rotor, reset timing (it was off ~2 degrees), backed out the idle bypass screw as far as it would go, replaced the TB gasket (it was brittle and broke when I pulled the TB off)


next step is changing the ATF this weekend.

it DOES have weird shifting issues, but they seem to be on the 2-3 shift where it will hold 2nd far longer than it should, nothing odd on the 1-2

The proper way to adjust fitv is with it installed on the car adjusting cold idle, which is done at the factory. Base idle: requires special procedure, ignition timing, throttle cable, and other maintenance items, tune up, air filter, fuel filter, pcv, all should be good before adjusting.


150 sounds like out of spec. should run though.


The thing is there's super specific ways of adjusting idle, FSM has exact procedures. Another thing I'm seeing a lot as a professional tech. is dirty throttle bodies causing weird issues.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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Discussion Starter #17
Just to bump this, OP I checked my o2 readouts on my OBD2 scanner at work and it's trimming fuel nearly -20%. I'm still chasing what sounds like the same problem.
yeah, her car is doing the same thing, the LTFT was like -13%

it throws codes intermittently for "fuel system too rich" too
 

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90 CRX Si
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3,866 Posts
Shoebox, I finally figured mine out. I pulled the VC to set the valves (which were close actually) and discovered the exhaust cam was advanced a tooth. Someone had done a timing belt before I got it, and apparently got it off. I never would have imagined that it would've caused the idle issues when cold but mostly clear up when warm, and no issues when going down the road. It runs like a top now.
 

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1st, Dont ever EVER touch the air by-pass screw. Unless major changes have been made to the engine (turbo, built NA, etc). The air by-pass isnt part of setting idle till the VERY VERY bitter end. Hell, I think the FSM even says to replace the TB before touching the screw.

2nd, how did it get 2 teeth off? Was it one gear in one direction and another in the other direction? You sure its timed correctly? Early CRVs are the bane of my life, they are second to only the early 90s accords when it comes to issues resulting from the dumbest things..
 
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