So heres the deal. I just installed a crower 2, valves, valve springs, retainers, ported/polished head, and edelbrock IM. I got the idle straight, it idles at around 1500 once warmed up....but after driving around, when i come to a complete stop, the idle drops to about 500, and wants to cut off, so i gotta keep my foot on the gas....and its a real pain in the ass. ive tried messing with the idle screw, but it still wants to drop low after driving around. anybody got ideas of what it is and/or how to fix this? thanks in advance!
what kind of tuning are you using? If none, there's your problem. When I was using this cam, I had almost 30% of fuel take'n out in idle range just to get it not to stall
tuning is killing me right now. im on a FPR and FPR Gauge, cause my VAFC i bought dosent function properly. Im looking into hondata, but i cant run it in VA (OBD2...emmissions and all)
Worry about emissions when you have to. For now though, you have to do it for your set-up to run right. If you won't tune it properly then you shouldn't have even done it.
i understand that, and i had the stuff to tune it, but the VAFC dosent work properly. im thinkin about goin with hondata. what good tuning options are out there that allow me to keep OBD2?
obd2 will not accept a tune at all period.my buddy a had a b16 turbo with obd2 ecu with an afc two weeks later boom 2 cracked pistons(not good!!) convert to obd1 get it chipped with a programable chip and get a laptop with a usb cable and tune it with crome or uberdata
If you're worried about emissions here's what I would do. Tune the current cam using OBD1 w/ Uberdata, Crome, etc and then when testing comes around, swap back to the stock cam and obd2 and you should be golden.
OK. Well i checked my CEL codes, and it came up Fuel Trim Malfunction, Fuel System running rich, and O2 sensor malfunction. Clear codes, turn car on, idles and wont run right again. it ran fine with the CEL on :-(
edit: and switching to a stock cam everytime emmissions comes around wont cut it either. will a functioning AFC tune the car on OBD2?
Tighten the trottle cable or turn the idle screw all the way out to make it idle until you do it right and get it tuned. My guess is the car will stay idling around 1000 rpm
I have the same set-up even the PP but I am on a D16z6 obd1. Just recently installed the IM and now I dont have and idle either. I doulbe peddal at red lights. I have a VAFC and messed with it for a little and no fixy. I just might take out the IM and BASH THE FVCK out it. Just my 2 cents.
well you have to decide. Run an obd1 P28 with hondata and a obd2 --> obd1 conversion harness and run that setup with a professional tune, or ditch it and run stock.
Most people figure this out before they buy a bunch of shit. What did you expect to happen?
What I hear is that with an A'PEXi AFC and proper tuning/cam timing setup by a professional shouldn't be a prob. If you were doing forced then you would have to go OBD1 and one of the programs/chips.
Yea, thats what i was figuring. lots of people run VAFC's on their NA's with a stage 2. i figured i could tune it on my VAFC, but when i wired it all up, it didnt work :-(
if you don't know how to tune it yourself then you should prob take it to a pro.
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